Following this publication, the authorities of a Member State or of a third country, or a natural or legal person having a legitimate interest and established or resident in a third country, may lodge, in accordance with Article 17 of Regulation (EU) 2024/1143 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) an opposition with the Commission within three months from the date of this publication.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘Trufa negra de Teruel’

EU No: PGI-ES-03179 – 26.2.2024

PDO ( ) PGI (X)

1.   Name(s) [of PDO or PGI]

‘Trufa negra de Teruel’

2.   Member State or Third Country

Spain

3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product

Class 1.6. Fruit, vegetables and cereals, fresh or processed

Combined nomenclature code

07 – EDIBLE VEGETABLES AND CERTAIN ROOTS AND TUBERS

0709 – Other vegetables, fresh or chilled

0709 56 – Truffles (Tuber spp.)

3.2.   Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ is a hypogeous fungus of the Tuber melanosporum Vitt. species, grown in the defined geographical area.

The fruiting body has a peridium or external part with a warty or pyramid structure, cracked and matt-black in appearance, occasionally with a reddish-brown shade. The gleba or inner part is compact and blackish-brown and covered in fine, white, well-defined veins.

‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ must be ripe and healthy at the time of harvesting, free from parasites and infestations, fresh in appearance, firm to the touch, and free from mould, with no abnormal smell.

The aroma of ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ combines with everyday odours of other foods. Its main aromatic descriptors are: sulphurous, black olive, blue cheese, followed by mushrooms, animal leather, boiled potato, butter, nuts, straw or hay. Even if the same specimen contains all of these, the perception will change depending on the intensity of each aroma and the degree of ripeness. A mushroom or nutty aroma predominating over the main aromas would be considered a flaw.

‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ is sold fresh and may be marketed:

(a)

whole, divided into three categories: — ‘Extra’: with a uniform peridium, with the exception of the ‘canifado’, where applicable. Rounded or spherical shape, firm consistency all over. It must weigh at least 20 grams. — ‘Primera’ [first class]: the peridium may be damaged on less than one third of its surface. Firm consistency all over. The following terms may be used, based on its weight: — ‘Primera mayor de 20 grams’ [first class over 20 grams]: It must weigh at least 20 grams. — ‘Primera menor de 20 grams’ [first class under 20 grams]: It must weigh at least 10 grams and less than 20 grams. — ‘Pequeña’ [small] with a uniform peridium, with the exception of the ‘canifado’, where applicable. Rounded or spherical shape, firm consistency all over. It must weigh at least 5 grams and less than 10 grams.

(b)	as cuts: truffles over a third of whose original peridium was damaged and which were corrected with a clean cut, leaving a clean piece of truffle with a firm consistency that weighs at least 10 grams.

3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

—

3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

The stages of production that take place in the defined geographical area are cultivation, harvesting, preservation and classification.

3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ is always presented and dispatched in packaged form.

It is a high-value product, with physical and organoleptic characteristics that are perishable. After being dug up, any change in the truffle’s environment will change its metabolism, leading to changes to its aromatic profile or intensity. This makes it important to keep the truffles refrigerated after harvesting, and to package them in the defined production area. In this way, optimal conditions are created for the quality of the product, and its particular aromas are preserved. In addition, the product is able to maintain its authenticity and traceability through checks and certification of traders.

3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

The labelling of packaging containing the protected product must contain the following elements in the same visual field:

☐	Protected Geographical Indication or PGI ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’.

☐	‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ logo.

☐	Sales denomination next to the product category. The ‘Primera’ category must also include the weight details indicated in section 3.2.

All the packages must bear a numbered guarantee label issued by the management body of the ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ PGI and verified by the inspection and certification body. These numbered guarantee labels must be affixed at the same place where the product is classified and packaged, in such a way as to ensure that they cannot be reused.

The ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ logo is as follows:

4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

The area in which ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ is grown, harvested, preserved, classified and packaged is limited to the province of Teruel.

5.   Link with the geographical area

The specific quality and characteristics of ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ are due to the geographical environment in which the truffles are produced, preserved, classified and packaged. The factors linked to the quality of the product are both natural and human. Both have fostered the development of qualities in the Teruel truffle that are highly valued by consumers, helping to increase and consolidate its reputation.

5.1.   Specificity of the geographical area

The province of Teruel is located in the Autonomous Community of Aragón. More than half of its territory is over 1 000 metres in elevation, as it is surrounded by the Iberian mountain range. This landscape, together with the elevation and its position, gives rise to a Mediterranean climate with mountains of medium elevation and strong continental influences. The climate is characterised by short summers with low levels of rainfall (less than 30 millimetres), which helps the development of the truffles, and cold winters with the frosts necessary for their ripening.

From the point of view of soil science, there is a Palaeozoic base with abundant quantities of visible limestone and dolomite. The soils are limestone and stony, with a high proportion of calcium carbonate. The combination of soils with good drainage and a neutral, slightly alkaline, pH helps the truffle mycorrhizas to form on the roots of the host tree. Their development is further assisted by the moderate organic matter content which restricts competition from other types of fungus.

These natural conditions in the province of Teruel are ideal for the proliferation of wild truffles under the holm oaks and the Portuguese oaks of the Sierra de Gúdar, Sierra de Javalambre, Sierra de Maestrazgo, Sierra de Albarracín, and the Sierra de Matarraña. This led to a call for truffle hunters between the 1960s and 1980s.

The presence of wild truffles in the woodlands was the impetus behind the cultivation of ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ in the 1980s. Various studies show the positive influence of the natural factors of the geographical area, specifically climate and soil, on the specificity of ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’. These are described in the study by Ágreda, T. et al. (2005): ‘Ecología de las plantaciones de trufa negra en Teruel: método de muestreo para su caracterización’ [Ecology of the black truffle plantations in Teruel: sampling method for their characterisation]. There are similar conclusions in the study ‘Un modelo de potencialidad climática para la trufa negra (Tuber melanosporum) en Teruel (España)’ [A model with climatic potential for black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) in Teruel (Spain)]. Alonso Ponce, R. et al. (2010).

With regard to the human factors, truffle-growing is based on traditional and common knowledge handed down from generation to generation.

Francisco Edo, an agricultural engineer and native of the province of Teruel, presented his know-how in the Estudio sobre truficultura [Study of truffle cultivation] (1986). He later trained truffle growers from Teruel in techniques for cultivation, mycorrhizal association and harvesting.

The cultivation technique for producing ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ involves sowing symbiont seedlings inoculated with Tuber melanosporum spores on their roots so that the process of mycorrhizal association can occur.

Harvesting is another basic technique that influences the quality and characteristics of ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’. This is still done by hand, with the help of trained dogs. The dogs are trained to hunt for ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’. This process begins when they are puppies. They are taught to recognise the scent and find the product in the ground. Once the dogs have been trained, they use their sense of smell to identify the exact location of the truffles and scratch the ground with their paws to indicate it. The truffle grower then starts to dig a hole around the spot using a machete or truffle knife. In this way, ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ is harvested without damaging the mycelium. The hole is then filled in to preserve the spores in the soil and ensure future growth. The relationship between dog and truffle grower is fundamental for harvesting ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’.

Truffle growers carry a truffle bag or basket in which they place the harvested ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’, which is later kept refrigerated in order to preserve its properties.

5.2.   Causal link between the geographical area and the characteristics of the product

The product ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ is characterised by its aroma profile, which can vary slightly depending on the soil, climate and host tree. The aroma profile is directly established by the absorption of nutrients and the truffle’s level of ripeness when harvested.

‘Using the aromatic compounds identified in olfactometry, the aromatic descriptors of the “Trufa negra de Teruel” have been identified as sulphurous, black olive, mushroom, animal leather, boiled potato, butter, blue cheese, nuts and straw or hay.’ (Marco, P. et al. (2019). La Trufa Negra, mucho más que un aroma) [The black truffle, much more than an aroma].

The stages of development of ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ are: formation of the mycelium, initial fruiting, growth and ripening.

In the first three stages, the spores need the nutrients supplied by the soils of Teruel, which are rich in calcium carbonate with a neutral, slightly alkaline, pH. This composition assists in the availability of nutrients that activate the microbiota of the spores of ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’. This in turn assists in the production of the very specific volatile aromatic compounds. In addition, the soils of Teruel are stony, which assists in the filtering of water and the development of the spores.

The aromatic complexity characteristic of ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ develops during ripening. The aromatic compounds are concentrated in the fungus as a result of metabolic reactions caused by the response to the cold. For this reason, it is during the winter months that ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ achieves its optimal ripeness and characteristic aromas: sulphurous, black olive, blue cheese, mushroom, animal leather, boiled potato, butter, nuts and straw or hay. This is also why the low temperatures and soil stability are vital for its quality.

Furthermore, the experience of the producers of ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ and the use of hand-tools when harvesting prevent damage to truffles. Along with the training of the dogs, these factors mean that the truffles are harvested at the optimum time, fully preserving their physical and organoleptic properties.

5.3.   Reputation

The reputation that ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ has acquired is the result of various activities that have allowed the product to become more widely known and appreciated. Since 2001, the village of Sarrión, in the province of Teruel, has hosted the international truffle fair ‘Feria Internacional de la Trufa’ (FITRUF’) in which the best ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ is presented, chosen by experts.

The ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ is a constant presence at various fairs. In 2005, at the ‘Madrid Fusión’ fair, a famous chef said that this truffle ‘is the truffle that suits all dishes’.

The black truffle is identified indisputably as ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’: ‘For two weeks, the Trufa negra de Teruel is the star of the show in the capital’s restaurants’ (Heraldo de Aragón, 2007) [The Aragón Herald newspaper]. So much so that literary works also make specific reference to it: ‘Tavo ordered a starter of sautéed potatoes with Trufa negra de Teruel, egg yolk and pine nuts’ (Cort, I., 2024. El pasado siempre llega tarde).

In 2013, Teruel hosted the first international truffle-growing conference to take place in Spain. The same year saw the inauguration of the ‘Jornadas Gastronómicas de la Trufa negra de Teruel’, gastronomy-themed events devoted to the Teruel black truffle.

The reputation and renown of ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ extends to the domestic and international market. References in various media:

‘Trufa negra de Teruel, star of “Masterchef” ’ (Expansión, 2016).

‘The province of Teruel increased its exports [...]. Black truffles are among the products that experienced the highest growth. The main destinations [...] Germany, Italy, United Kingdom, France and Denmark.’ (Rajadel, L. (2022). Heraldo de Aragón).

‘Teruel’s black truffles dazzle New York’s future top chefs. Students at the Culinary Institute of America attend a tasting and study the complexity of their aromatic profile.’ (Aguilar, C. (2023). Diario de Teruel [Teruel newspaper]).

Since 2017, Teruel has been home to the ‘Trufforum’ truffle forum, an initiative of the European Mycological Institute. At the 2021 edition, there was a workshop which presented a virtual experience for the five senses: touching, smelling and tasting the Trufa negra de Teruel.

This renown that ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ has acquired on the market led to the creation in 2018 of the world’s first panel of experts to taste and classify black truffles.

Its culinary importance is also emphasised by prestigious chefs who experiment with it in their creations: ‘The sliced Trufa negra de Teruel with oil and salt is a true gift to the palate’ (Expansión, 2023). Another quote: ‘ Tuber melanosporum is shaking up palates in sushi and even in cocktails’ (Diario de Teruel, 2019). The chef of the Momiji Atelier chose it to make a dish of nigiri of aged beef with Trufa negra de Teruel. He commented: ‘Cooking with this product was really stimulating. There is a lot of uncharted territory, because it is an ingredient that is not often used in Asian cuisine.’

It also appears in dishes in Michelin-starred restaurants, such as ‘Cream cheese of the day with a hint of Trufa negra de Teruel’ in the restaurant El Batán. The product also has a starring role in themed events in prestigious restaurants such as Félix Manso Ibarla (Noticias de Gipuzkoa, 2019).

Various digital media share recipes with ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’: ‘La Gula del Norte with Trufa negra de Teruel and quails’ eggs’ (recipes from the official website of La Gula del Norte, 2018); including on YouTube: ‘Pumpkin with truffled orange with Trufa negra de Teruel’ (Trufa negra de Teruel ATRUTER, 2016); ‘Salt cod pil-pil with Trufa negra de Teruel’ (Trufa negra de Teruel ATRUTER, 2015); or ‘Porcini Parmentier with Trufa negra de Teruel’ (Esta es mi tierra Aragón TV, 2023).

The reputation acquired by ‘Trufa negra de Teruel’ over more than 20 years has led to the province being acknowledged as the world leader in quality, quantity and surface area dedicated to cultivation. ‘Economic analysis has helped prove a positive correlation between truffle cultivation and population size in small towns in Teruel.’ (Medrano, D., thesis. 2020).

Reference to publication of the product specification

https://www.aragon.es/documents/d/guest/202507_pc_igp_trufa_negra_de_teruel_tras_observaciones_com

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(1)  Regulation (EU) 2024/1143 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 11 April 2024 on geographical indications for wine, spirit drinks and agricultural products, as well as traditional specialities guaranteed and optional quality terms for agricultural products, amending Regulations (EU) No 1308/2013, (EU) 2019/787 and (EU) 2019/1753 and repealing Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 (OJ L, 2024/1143, 23.4.2024, ELI: http://data.europa.eu/eli/reg/2024/1143/oj).