This communication is published in accordance with Article 17(5) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33 (1).

COMMUNICATING THE APPROVAL OF A STANDARD AMENDMENT

‘Condrieu’

PDO-FR-A0685-AM02

DESCRIPTION OF AND REASONS FOR THE APPROVED AMENDMENT

1.   Demarcated parcel area

The product specification for the ‘Condrieu’ designation has been amended in Chapter I, Section IV ‘Areas and places in which the various operations take place’, point 2 ‘Demarcated parcel area’, in order to update the date of approval by the competent national authority of the demarcated parcel area within the geographical area of production, without any further change. Parcels are demarcated by identifying the parcels within the geographical area of production that are suitable for producing the product covered by the protected designation of origin. The geographical area has not changed.

This update does not affect the single document.

2.   Geographical area and area in immediate proximity

The product specification for the ‘Condrieu’ designation has been amended in Chapter I, Section IV ‘Areas and places in which the various operations take place’, point 1 ‘Geographical area’ and point 3 ‘Area in immediate proximity’, to add the reference to the Official Geographic Code of 1 January 2023, without any further change.

This amended wording allows the geographical area to be identified with reference to the 2023 version of the Official Geographic Code, which is issued by the National Institute of Statistics and Economic Studies (INSEE), and gives the definition of the geographical area legal certainty.

The same reference has been inserted in the single document under the headings ‘Geographical area’ and ‘Additional conditions – area in immediate proximity’.

3.   Labelling

The product specification for the ‘Condrieu’ designation has been amended in Chapter I, Section XII ‘Presentation and labelling rules’, point 2 ‘Special provisions’ in order to include the labelling rules for referring to the broader geographical unit ‘Vignobles de la Vallée du Rhône’, as set out in the agreement signed between the protection and management bodies concerned. This information must appear in the same visual field as all the mandatory details and must be printed in characters of the same graphic design and colour as those of the designation, provided that it is no bigger than two thirds of the size of the designation.

The amendment has been added to the single document, under the heading ‘Additional conditions – Labelling’.

4.   Declaration requirements

Chapter II of the product specification for the ‘Condrieu’ designation has been updated: the obligations of operators to make declarations to the protection and management body have been brought into line with the inspection plan for the designation.

This update does not affect the single document.

5.   References to the inspection body

Chapter III, Section II of the product specification, ‘References to the inspection body’, has been updated to specify that checks on compliance with the product specification are carried out on the basis of an approved inspection plan and by a third-party body that offers guarantees of competence, impartiality and independence and has been delegated by the INAO.

This update does not affect the single document.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

1.   Name(s)

Condrieu

2.   Geographical indication type

PDO – Protected Designation of Origin

3.   Categories of grapevine products

1.

Wine

16.	Wine of overripe grapes

3.1.   Combined Nomenclature code

—	22 – BEVERAGES, SPIRITS AND VINEGAR 2204 – Wine of fresh grapes, including fortified wines; grape must other than that of heading 2009

4.   Description of the wine(s)

1.   White wines

BRIEF WRITTEN DESCRIPTION

The emblematic ‘Condrieu’ variety is Viognier B. Wines eligible to bear the designation of origin ‘Condrieu’ can be produced as dry and medium dry still white wines.

‘Condrieu’ wine is characterised by a gold colour that has intense golden tints.

The nose acquires aromas of ripe fruit, such as peach and, above all, apricot, and sometimes of violet and white flower.

In the mouth, the wine is powerful with a remarkable balance, rich and medium sweet, without any heaviness thanks to a pleasing vivacity that gives the wine an intense aromatic length.

The wines have a minimum natural alcoholic strength by volume of 11,5 %.

The total alcoholic strength by volume of the wines after enrichment does not exceed 14 %.

The total acidity, volatile acidity and total sulphur dioxide content are those laid down in EU legislation.

General analytical characteristics

—	Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume) —

—	Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume) —

—	Minimum total acidity: in milliequivalents per litre

—	Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre) —

—	Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre) —

2.   White wines of overripe grapes

BRIEF WRITTEN DESCRIPTION

The emblematic variety is Viognier B. Where natural conditions permit, limited amounts of wines termed 'medium sweet' or 'sweet' are produced from overripe grapes.

These wines are gold in colour with intense golden tints. The nose acquires pronounced aromas of ripe fruit, such as peach and, above all, apricot. Similarly in the mouth, it is powerful with a remarkable balance, rich and medium sweet, without any heaviness thanks to a pleasing vivacity that gives the wine an intense aromatic length.

The wines have a fermentable sugar content (glucose and fructose) of at least 45 grams per litre.

The wines have a minimum natural alcoholic strength by volume of 11,5 %.

By way of derogation, the volatile acidity content for wines with a fermentable sugar content (glucose and fructose) of at least 45 grams per litre is as established by an order jointly issued by the Minister for Consumer Affairs and the Minister for Agriculture.

The other analytical criteria comply with the values established in EU legislation.

General analytical characteristics

—	Maximum total alcoholic strength (in % volume) —

—	Minimum actual alcoholic strength (in % volume): 13

—	Minimum total acidity: —

—	Maximum volatile acidity (in milliequivalents per litre): 30

—	Maximum total sulphur dioxide (in milligrams per litre): —

5.   Winemaking practices

5.1.   Specific oenological practices

1.   Specific oenological practice

Enrichment or acidification of any kind is prohibited when making wines with a fermentable sugar content (glucose and fructose) of at least 45 grams per litre.

The use of wood chips is prohibited.

In addition to the above provisions, the oenological practices adopted for the wines must comply with the obligations laid down by EU legislation and by the Rural and Fisheries Code.

2.   Cultivation method

The minimum planting density of the vines is 6 500 plants per hectare.

The area available for each plant does not exceed 1,5 square metres. This surface area is obtained by multiplying the spacing between the rows by the spacing between the plants.

The spacing between rows does not exceed 2 metres.

There may be paths with a width greater than 2 metres. They are not more than 3 metres wide, except for hilly areas (minimum incline of 30 %), where they may be wider. These paths have a controlled green cover, whether naturally occurring or sown.

The vines are pruned with a maximum of ten buds per plant, using the following techniques:

—	spur pruning (gobelet, cordon de Royat with one or two arms); with a maximum of three buds per spur;

—	single Guyot pruning, with a maximum of eight buds on the cane.

The wines are made from grapes harvested manually. The grape bunches are transported whole to the winemaking location.

5.2.   Maximum yields

1.	46 hectolitres per hectare

6.   Demarcated geographical area

The grapes are harvested and the wines produced and matured in the following municipalities, on the basis of the 2023 Official Geographic Code:

—	Department of Ardèche: Limony;

—	Department of Loire: Chavanay, Malleval, Saint-Michel-sur-Rhône, Saint-Pierre-de-Bœuf, Vérin;

—	Department of Rhône: Condrieu.

7.   Wine grape variety(ies)

Viognier B

8.   Description of the link(s)

1-   Information on the geographical area

a)   Description of the natural factors relevant to the link

Located around 40 kilometres south of Lyon, along the eastern border of the Massif Central, the vineyards of the protected designation of origin ‘Condrieu’ lie between the vineyards of two other protected designations of origin, ‘Côte Rôtie’ in the north and ‘Saint-Joseph’ in the south.

The geographical area thus covers seven municipalities spanning the departments of Rhône, Loire and Ardèche.

In the system of Rhône valley protected designations of origin, ‘Condrieu’ belongs to the ‘Crus des Côtes du Rhône’ class of wines.

The landscape is dominated by the steep slopes dramatically overlooking the right bank of the Rhône.

Most of the soils characteristic of this area, which are sandy-clayey, poor and friable, originate from the degradation of magmatic and metamorphic primary rock, consisting mostly of granite. Nonetheless, some eolian deposits (loess) from the ice age remain in the form of highly localised ‘grains’.

In most cases, the steep slope and fragility and instability of the soils require significant adaptations. Consequently, the vines, trained on stakes, are grown on narrow terraces, known locally as ‘chaillées’, where the soil is retained by low walls, or ‘cheys’.

The wind from the north known locally as ‘Bise’ is the most frequent. A cold dry wind, it allows the leaves to dry and helps prevent the spread of fungal diseases. On account of the wind, relatively sheltered and sunny sites are selected, provided by the generally southerly and south-easterly orientation of the slopes on which the vineyards grow.

b)   Description of the human factors relevant to the link

It is said that ‘Condrieu’ vines were planted by Emperor Probus using plants brought back from Dalmatia in the third century AD.

While this version of the vineyards’ origins remains hypothetical, there is ample evidence of the antiquity of the vineyards and the related winegrowing culture, particularly at the archaeological site of Saint-Roman-en-Gal around a dozen kilometres away. It is renowned for its many mosaics uncovered in the remnants of Roman villas. Among these pictorial works, one depicts a scene of grape harvesting and crushing and the sealing of a jar (mosaic depicting the agricultural calendar, early third century, Museum of Saint Germain-en-Laye – Provenance: Saint-Romain-en-Gal). At that time, the wine jars were sealed using a resinous material and referred to as ‘picatum’. The wines themselves were known under the name of ‘Allobrogica’. (A. Ferdière – Les campagnes en gaule romaine [Rural areas in Roman Gaul] – page 87, Volume 2).

The initial development of the vineyards was therefore probably linked to the Pax Romana, which enabled the Allobroges, whose territory covered part of the right bank of the Rhône, opposite Vienne, to acquire Roman citizenship and, by the same token, the right to plant vines. Allobrogica was very popular at the beginning of the Antonine century (second century AD).

In the Middle Ages, however, it was difficult to transport these wines from the Rhône valley to northern France because of the exorbitant duties charged by the Rhône valley cities which had to be traversed on the way, in particular Lyon and Mâcon. (R. Dion – Histoire de la vigne et du vin en France [History of the vine and winemaking in France]).

In order to overcome this obstacle, the 17th century saw the development of trade routes for Rhône valley wines towards Paris travelling up the Loire river. Near Condrieu, the Rhône Valley is separated from the Loire valley by only around 40 kilometres, which can be crossed by a pass through the Pilat massif. Further north, the Briare and Loing canals connect the Loire with the Seine, in order to reach Paris.

However, starting in the 19th century, one difficulty followed another. First of all, phylloxera destroyed a large proportion of the vineyards, as highlighted in the writings of a resident of Alsace travelling along the Rhône Valley in 1893: ‘Previously renowned vineyards are almost destroyed; all that remains are some plants on the slopes of the Côte Rôtie, Ampuis and Condrieu’ (Jean Felbert, Histoire d’une famille alsacienne [History of an Alsatian family] – A. Picard et Raan).

Then the First World War and the industrialisation of the Rhône Valley drastically reduced the workforce available to work the slopes.

Thus, over the 20th century, the vineyards almost disappeared. Changes in consumption patterns, and the growing enthusiasm for quality wines and gastronomy, have helped revive these vineyards. Gradually the vineyards once again covered the area they occupied historically before the phylloxera crisis.

The vine population is based exclusively on Viognier B or ‘Vionnier’, a variety emblematic of ‘Condrieu’. It is mentioned as early as in 1781, in the Histoire naturelle de la province du Dauphiné [Natural History of the Province of Dauphiné], which refers to the wines of Vienne (‘Côte Rôtie’ and ‘Condrieu’) thus: ‘these excellent wines are made from only two grape varieties, Serine and Vionnier’.

The variety and ‘Condrieu’ vineyards share a common history, as they were both close to disappearing in the 1970s. In 1965, only some 8 hectares remained in the region and worldwide, and they were used to restock and gradually revive the vineyards, which in 2010 covered more than 140 hectares.

Like the Syrah N variety, Viognier B, a grape variety of the ‘second ripening period’ (mid- to-late ripening), is planted here at the limit of its growing range, enabling it to express its full potential. This variety is somewhat capricious owing to its irregular production. At the same, it is unusual because of its ability to naturally achieve a high sugar content.

The vineyard derives its name from the municipality of the same name, Condrieu (‘corner of the stream’). This small river town founded by the Romans in 59 BC at the crossroads of three departments, Rhône, Loire and Isère, is so named because of its location on a corner of land where one river flows into another, known as ‘Coin’.

The vineyards were first recognised as a protected designation of origin, namely ‘Côtes du Rhône’, on 19 November 1937.

On 27 April 1940, the protected designation of origin ‘Condrieu’ was recognised exclusively for still white wines, in the municipalities of Condrieu (Rhône), Vérin and Saint-Michel-sur-Rhône (Loire).

In 1967, the geographical area was extended to four municipalities further south: Chavanay, Malleval, Saint-Pierre-de-Bœuf, (Loire) and Limony (Ardèche).

The production area covered approximately 150 hectares in 2009, with an average annual production of 5 000 hectolitres made by 80 estates and winemakers.

2 –   Information on the quality and characteristics of the product

The protected designation of origin ‘Condrieu’ only applies to still white wines.

In the middle of the 19th century, the wine was ‘sweet’ and could be drunk six months after it was made (V. Rendu, Ampelographie française [French Ampelography] -1854).

In 2010, it is in most cases ‘dry’, sometimes ‘medium dry’. Where natural conditions permit, limited amounts of wines termed 'medium sweet' or 'sweet' are produced from overripe grapes.

It is characterised by a gold colour that has intense golden tints.

The nose acquires pronounced aromas of ripe fruit, such as peach and, above all, apricot, and sometimes of violet and white flower.

In the mouth, the wine is powerful with a remarkable balance, rich and medium sweet, without any heaviness thanks to a pleasing vivacity that gives the wine an intense aromatic length.

3 –   Causal interactions

Located on the right bank of the Rhône, the geographical area benefits from a favourable mesoclimate (known as ‘lyonnais’) linked to a particular topographical situation, with very steep slopes overlooking the river, and from geological and soil conditions which require permanent human intervention for the harmonious development of terraces and walls. This location provides the Viognier B variety – the “king” of the protected designation of origin “Condrieu”- planted at the northernmost limit at which it can grow, with optimal conditions for its development and ripening.

This variety is particularly suited to acidic soils. It can penetrate the cracked subsoil to obtain the water and mineral elements required to obtain harvests that are remarkably balanced and rich in sugar, despite the northern location.

This particular subsoil endows dry and medium dry wines with a characteristic liveliness that underpins the entire wide range of aromas. This same liveliness resulting from the subsoil is also found in wines made from overripe grapes, where the powerful aromas of ripe fruit are expressed without any heaviness.

Demarcated in line with the practices and requirements of Viognier B in order to maintain the variety’s potential despite the challenging conditions, the parcel area classifies the slopes carefully: only those slopes are kept that have the best aspects and provide the required warmth and protection against the cold northerly winds.

This demarcation allows for optimal management of the vines and for controlling their production potential by maintaining low yields from vines trained on stakes and by managing planting densities adapted to terraces.

These natural factors combined with the traditional know-how make it possible to produce a fine white wine that is dry or has fermentable sugars. The transmission of practices for winegrowing and for preserving fragile soils since antiquity by building terraces or high stone walls has helped preserve the Condrieu vineyards’ specific nature and the remarkable landscape that contributes to their reputation.

The tradition of harvesting grapes by hand, still maintained by Condrieu winegrowers today, helps preserve the originality and characteristics of these hillside vineyards.

The antiquity of this pre-Roman winegrowing area is matched only by the reputation of its wine. The wine has been known under the designation “Condrieu” since at least the 17th century; it was consumed in Lyon and Paris and praised by famous authors.

The prestige of Condrieu wines dates back to the earliest days of the vineyards. The following collection of writings from the past five centuries are testimony to the wines’ magic. From the 17th century, wines called “Condrieu” were among those taxed at the highest rate – applied to the most renowned wines – when they entered Paris (Order of 1680 – National Archives). According to R. Gadille, in the 18th century, the chapter of Lyon Cathedral and the consulate used to offer Condrieu wines as honorary gifts to their distinguished guests. From that same period, a 1781 edition of the Histoire naturelle de la province du Dauphiné [Natural History of the Province of Dauphiné] (Faujas de Saint-Fonds, volume I, p. 182) indicates that’... preference is still given to Condrieu and Château-Grillet white wine’. In 1801, the Traité théorique et pratique sur la culture de la vigne [Theoretical and practical treatise on vine cultivation] (Chaptal, Rozier, Parmentier and Dussieux, volume 1, p. 240) provides more evidence that ‘Condrieu’ and two other wines from a neigbouring area had an established reputation: ‘The famous wines of Hermitage, Côte Rôtie and Condrieu are produced on the slopes bordering the Rhône’. Later, the encyclopédie Roret (1921) lauded it in glowing terms: ‘The good white wines of Lyon are made in Condrieu. They are robust, lively and intense, a pleasant taste and the smoothest of bouquets...’

There are a number of other literary references. In 1710, in one of his last letters, Boileau writes: ‘I shall send for your Condrieu wine tomorrow; perhaps it will gladden my heart’. Later in the century, Piron refers to it poetically in his Air: De l’ouverture de Bellérophon. Lastly, Lamartine’s Correspondance, published by his wife, evokes ‘Condrieu wine that brightened our spirits’.

For a long time, the wine market of Condrieu, a counterpart to the one organised in Ampuis for the neighbouring protected designation of origin ‘Côte Rôtie’, helped to spread the reputation of these white wines more widely. That market disappeared in the 1950s, and ‘Condrieu’ wines gradually joined ‘Côte Rôtie’ wines at the Ampuis wine market. The wine market of Chavanay, in place since the 1920s, likewise displays Condrieu wines prominently.

‘Condrieu’, covering spectacular vineyards and recognised by a protected designation of origin in 1940, will ceaselessly develop a reputation built on its finesse and quality.

9.   Essential further conditions (bottling, labelling, other requirements)

Legal framework:

National legislation

Type of further condition:

Derogation concerning production in the demarcated geographical area

Description of the condition:

The area in immediate proximity, defined by derogation for the production and development of the wines, comprises the territory of the following municipalities, on the basis of the 2023 Official Geographic Code:

—

Department of Ardèche: Alboussière, Andance, Ardoix, Arlebosc, Arras-sur-Rhône, Boffres, Bogy, Champagne, Champis, Charmes-sur-Rhône, Charnas, Châteaubourg, Cheminas, Colombier-le-Cardinal, Cornas, Eclassan, Etables, Félines, Gilhac-et-Bruzac, Glun, Guilherand-Granges, Lemps, Mauves, Ozon, Peaugres, Peyraud, Plats, Quintenas, Saint-Barthélemy-le-Plain, Saint-Cyr, Saint-Georges-les-Bains, Saint-Romain-d’Ay, Saint-Romain-de-Lerps, Sarras, Sécheras, Serrières, Saint-Désirat, Saint-Etienne-de-Valoux, Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, Saint-Péray, Soyons, Talencieux, Thorrenc, Toulaud, Tournon-sur-Rhône, Vernosc-lès-Annonay, Vinzieux and Vion;

—

Department of Drôme: Albon, Andancette, Beaumont-Monteux, Beausemblant, Bourg-lès-Valence, Chanos-Curson, Chantemerle-les-Blés, Châteauneuf-sur-Isère, Chavannes, Clérieux, Crozes-Hermitage, Erôme, Gervans, Granges-les-Beaumont, Larnage, Laveyron, Mercurol-Veaunes, La Motte-de-Galaure, Ponsas, Pont-de-l’Isère, La Roche-de-Glun, Saint-Barthélemy-de-Vals, Saint-Donat-sur-l’Herbasse, Saint-Rambert-d’Albon, Saint-Uze, Saint-Vallier, Serves-sur-Rhône, Tain-l’Hermitage, Triors and Valence;

—	Department of Isère: Chonas-l’Amballan, Le Péage-de-Roussillon, Reventin-Vaugris, Les Roches-de-Condrieu, Sablons, Saint-Alban-du-Rhône, Saint-Clair-du-Rhône, Saint-Maurice-l’Exil, Salaise-sur-Sanne, Seyssuel and Vienne;

—	Department of Loire: Bessey, La Chapelle-Villars, Chuyer, Lupé, Maclas, Pélussin, Roisey and Saint-Romain-en-Jarez;

—	Department of Rhône: Ampuis, Les Haies, Loire-sur-Rhône, Longes, Sainte-Colombe, Saint-Cyr-sur-le-Rhône, Saint-Romain-en-Gal and Tupin-et-Semons.

Legal framework:

National legislation

Type of further condition:

Additional provisions relating to labelling

Description of the condition:

a)	Wines with the protected designation of origin may specify on their labels the name of a smaller geographical unit, provided that: — it is a registered location; — it appears on the harvest declaration.

b)

The labelling of still wines with the designation of origin may specify the larger geographical unit ‘Cru des Côtes du Rhône’ or ‘Vignobles de la Vallée du Rhône’. The conditions for using the larger geographical unit ‘Vignobles de la Vallée du Rhône’ are set out in the agreement signed between the various protection and management bodies concerned. This information must appear in the same visual field as all the mandatory details and must be printed in characters of the same graphic design and colour as those of the designation, provided that it is no bigger than two thirds of the size of the designation.

c)	The labelling of wines which do not comply with the provisions allowing the use of the term ‘dry’ must include the words ‘medium dry’, ‘medium sweet’ or ‘sweet’ corresponding to the fermentable sugar content of the wine, as defined by EU legislation.

These particulars are included on the labels in the same field of vision as the name of the protected designation of origin.

Link to the product specification

https://info.agriculture.gouv.fr/gedei/site/bo-agri/document_administratif-babefc65-b6a8-4533-a502-3cf8e7469cb6

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(1)   OJ L 9, 11.1.2019, p. 2.