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Document 32018D1227(01)
Commission Implementing Decision of 17 December 2018 on the publication in the Official Journal of the European Union of the application for registration of a name referred to in Article 49 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (‘Zagorski mlinci’ (PGI))
Commission Implementing Decision of 17 December 2018 on the publication in the Official Journal of the European Union of the application for registration of a name referred to in Article 49 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (‘Zagorski mlinci’ (PGI))
Commission Implementing Decision of 17 December 2018 on the publication in the Official Journal of the European Union of the application for registration of a name referred to in Article 49 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (‘Zagorski mlinci’ (PGI))
C/2018/8778
IO C 464, 27.12.2018, p. 7–11
(BG, ES, CS, DA, DE, ET, EL, EN, FR, HR, IT, LV, LT, HU, MT, NL, PL, PT, RO, SK, SL, FI, SV)
In force
27.12.2018 |
EN |
Official Journal of the European Union |
C 464/7 |
COMMISSION IMPLEMENTING DECISION
of 17 December 2018
on the publication in the Official Journal of the European Union of the application for registration of a name referred to in Article 49 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council
(‘Zagorski mlinci’ (PGI))
(2018/C 464/07)
THE EUROPEAN COMMISSION,
Having regard to the Treaty on the Functioning of the European Union,
Having regard to Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 21 November 2012 on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs (1), and in particular Article 50(2)(a) thereof,
Whereas:
(1) |
Croatia has sent to the Commission an application for protection of the name ‘Zagorski mlinci’ in accordance with Article 49(4) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012. |
(2) |
In accordance with Article 50 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 the Commission has examined that application and concluded that it fulfils the conditions laid down in that Regulation. |
(3) |
In order to allow for the submission of notices of opposition in accordance with Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012, the single document and the reference to the publication of the product specification referred to in Article 50(2)(a) of that Regulation for the name ‘Zagorski mlinci’ should be published in the Official Journal of the European Union, |
HAS DECIDED AS FOLLOWS:
Sole Article
The single document and the reference to the publication of the product specification referred to in Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 for the name ‘Zagorski mlinci’ (PGI) are contained in the Annex to this Decision.
In accordance with Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012, the publication of this Decision shall confer the right to oppose to the registration of the name referred to in the first paragraph of this Article within three months from the date of publication of this Decision in the Official Journal of the European Union
Done at Brussels, 17 December 2018.
For the Commission
Phil HOGAN
Member of the Commission
ANNEX
SINGLE DOCUMENT
‘ZAGORSKI MLINCI’
EU No: PGI-HR-02315 – 19.6.2017
PDO ( ) PGI ( X )
1. Name
‘Zagorski mlinci’
2. Member State or Third Country
Croatia
3. Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff
3.1. Type of product
Class 2.3. Bread, pastry, cakes, confectionery, biscuits and other baker’s wares
3.2. Description of the product to which the name in 1 applies
‘Zagorski mlinci’ are baker’s wares made from type-550 fine wheat flour, water and salt, combined to produce a thin sheet of dough, which is rolled out and stretched by hand until it is no thicker than 2,5 mm. The sheet of dough is cut into rectangles, which are baked twice on heated plates and then left to dry completely.
The end product, ‘Zagorski mlinci’, are rectangles of thin baked dough, with possible uneven edges, white to yellow in colour, with an even crust that is somewhat raised in places and marked by characteristic, partly charred, blisters ranging in colour from light-brown to brown and black as a result of the bubbling of the dough during baking.
Before they are eaten, ‘Zagorski mlinci’ are broken into smaller pieces by hand, soaked in boiling water and left to rest for a short while. They are then rinsed and traditionally flavoured with hot roast dripping before being served.
Quality criteria for ‘Zagorski mlinci’
Shape |
Rectangular, uneven edges permitted. |
Surface |
Even, raised in places and, as a result of bubbling during baking, marked by characteristic, partly charred, blisters. |
Colour |
White to yellow (typical of wheat dough) with characteristic partly charred blisters ranging from light brown to brown and black. |
Consistency |
Brittle and easily breakable. |
3.3. Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)
The raw materials needed to make ‘Zagorski mlinci’ are type-550 fine wheat flour, sea or rock salt and water.
3.4. Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area
The production of ‘Zagorski mlinci’, from mixing the dough to baking and resting, must take place entirely within the geographical area defined in point 4.
3.5. Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to
‘Zagorski mlinci’ have a characteristic and identifiable rectangular shape, which is obtained by cutting the thinly stretched dough before baking. Having a brittle consistency as an end product, ‘Zagorski mlinci’ crack and break easily if not handled correctly. Transportation of the non-pre-packaged (unwrapped) end product or repackaging may lead to the product completely disintegrating and could also lead to it losing its distinctive rectangular shape. To ensure that the end product retains its distinctive rectangular shape and prevent the absorption of moisture which could make the product tough, ‘Zagorski mlinci’ are packaged immediately after production within the geographical area defined in point 4. This ensures that the original quality and identifying characteristics of the product to be placed on the market are preserved.
3.6. Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to
—
4. Concise definition of the geographical area
The geographical area of production of ‘Zagorski mlinci’ comprises the territory of Hrvatsko Zagorje, i.e. the whole territory of Krapina-Zagorje County, the whole territory of Varaždin County and the edges of Zagreb County that border on Krapina-Zagorje and Varaždin Counties, specifically the municipalities of: Brdovec, Marija Gorica, Pušća, Dubravica, Luka, Jakovlje, Bistra and Bedenica.
5. Link with the geographical area
The causal link between ‘Zagorski mlinci’ and the defined geographical area is based on the reputation of the product, the traditional production method, i.e. the specific way in which it is prepared, the recipe that has been preserved to this day, and the features of the geographical area.
Farms in Hrvatsko Zagorje have traditionally been small and the people poor, which meant that their food consisted mostly of whatever ingredients they produced themselves. As wheat flour has always been abundant, they would prepare and stretch out a variety of doughs, which they then boiled or baked.
Every household in Zagorje had a wood-burning stove with hot plates where food, including ‘Zagorski mlinci’, would be boiled and baked.
The region of Hrvatsko Zagorje is intent on further developing its tourism industry, and one of its strongest assets is its rich gastronomy based on the traditional local specialities, among which ‘Zagorski mlinci’ hold a prominent place. The fact that the Croatian word ‘mlinac’ (or ‘mlinec’, to use the typical local kajkavian dialect) can be traced back to the 17th century, when it denoted a thinly rolled out sheet of dough (J. Ivanišević, 2011, iće & piće journal, Zagreb) shows that ‘mlinci’ have been prepared and cooked in Hrvatsko Zagorje for centuries.
The simple recipe for ‘Zagorski mlinci’ calling only for flour, salt and water has been handed down through generations of families in Hrvatsko Zagorje to this day. Even though ‘Zagorski mlinci’ are a traditional product of Hrvatsko Zagorje, they are also prepared elsewhere in Croatia, albeit not very often, where they always contain eggs.
Not only is the recipe traditional, but preparing the dough for ‘Zagorski mlinci’ is a special craft. The lump of dough is first rolled out over a large surface, traditionally a kitchen table, and then—as before, so too today—stretched exclusively by hand. This entails special skill and experience, as it is vital that the dough be stretched as thinly and evenly as possible, and be no thicker than 2,5 mm. The dough is spread out in large sheets, depending on the size of the surface (table) used; it should be stretched out until its edges hang off the table. This is almost impossible to achieve without special skill, as the dough would tear. Such phyllo-type doughs are a characteristic feature of traditional Croatian cuisine, and even more so of Hrvatsko Zagorje, where housewives have handed down this skill through generations.
‘Zagorski mlinci’ acquire their typical appearance and brittle consistency owing to the specific way in which the dough is baked on flat or curved hot plates for no more than a few minutes. Using her/his knowledge and experience, the baker is the one to tell when the dough is done. The traditional way of baking ‘Zagorski mlinci’ is on flat or curved hot plates, just as this used to be done on wood-burning stoves in the households of Hrvatsko Zagorje. Another specific characteristic of ‘Zagorski mlinci’ is that they are twice-baked and rested after each baking. The first baking and resting extracts moisture from the dough, while the second baking completes the baking process and gives mlinci their characteristic charred blisters. This is the typical method for preparing ‘Zagorski mlinci’, as opposed to other similar types of dough that are baked in closed ovens, on the grill, in a bread oven or under a metal bell-shaped lid.
Since ‘Zagorski mlinci’, when prepared as a dish, are traditionally served with roast poultry, almost all written records on ‘Zagorski puran’ eaten as a dish refer to it as being served with a side of ‘Zagorski mlinci’. Both are among the most important authentic products of Hrvatsko Zagorje and feature in virtually every publication on tourism and gastronomy in Hrvatsko Zagorje, or the region in general, and, when served together, make for the distinctive combination, the ‘staple’ of Hrvatsko Zagorje, most commonly known as ‘Zagorski puran s mlincima’ (‘Zagorski puran’ with ‘mlinci’].
The article ‘Okusi i mirisi plemićkih gozbi’ in the brochure Zagorje gastroturizam published by the Tourist Board of Krapina-Zagorje County contains a recipe for turkey with mlinci accompanied by the claim that ‘roast turkey with “mlinci” is an enduring classic of the Zagorje cuisine’. The link between these two products and Hrvatsko Zagorje is also referred to in the article ‘Moćni okusi kraljevskih i pučkih jela’, which appears in the guidebook on northern and central Croatia: ‘Turkey with “mlinci” epitomises the cuisine of Hrvatsko Zagorje’ (Ž. Žutelja, 2011, in: Kontinentala Hrvatska, a 2011 guidebook, EPH media d.o.o.).
The well-known trade fair 100 % Zagorsko, devoted to showcasing, selling and promoting traditional agricultural produce of Hrvatsko Zagorje has been organised for six consecutive years. One of the traditional products featured at the event has been ‘Zagorski mlinci’ (100 % Zagorsko, 2011, a trade fair brochure, Sajamska izložba Krapinsko — zagorske županije, list of exhibitors).
The culinary event Chtef — Zagorski chef is a cooking competition where the participants use traditional ingredients from Hrvatsko Zagorje to prepare innovative and imaginative dishes. The competition brings together the finest of Hrvatsko Zagorje’s cuisine and the region’s tradition. The 2014 Chtef — Zagorski chef focused on the preparation of ‘Zagorski mlinci’.
Another article appealing to the distinctive character of ‘Zagorski mlinci’, the recipe, the skill it takes to make them and the link with Hrvatsko Zagorje is ‘Milostive ne mijese mlince … ali ih rado jedu’, published in the section on traditional cuisine (‘Tradicijska kuhinja’) of one of Croatia’s leading gastronomy journals. Its very title, ‘Madam won’t knead … but will eat mlinci’, suggests that preparing mlinci took a special skill, one which townswomen did not possess. The article also outlines the link between ‘Zagorski mlinci’ and Hrvatsko Zagorje. ‘The fate of “mlinci” was sealed long since. Turkey and “mlinci” have become inextricably linked, quite like bread and butter. The best love story from Hrvatsko Zagorje is not the one about Veronika of Desenice, but rather the one about turkey and “mlinci”, this enduring couple from the hills of Hrvatsko Zagorje, which Joža Horvat perhaps best described simply as: Zagorje!’ (J. Ivanišević, 2011, iće & piće journal, Zagreb).
The reputation of ‘Zagorski mlinci’ was further affirmed in 2012 when they were entered on the List of autochthonous agricultural and forest foods and traditional dishes of the Hrvatsko Zagorje cuisine by Krapina-Zagorje County (2012 List of autochthonous agricultural and forest foods and traditional dishes of the Hrvatsko Zagorje cuisine, Krapina-Zagorje County).
‘Zagorski mlinci’ appear on the list of important Croatian cultural heritage, in the scientific publication entitled Prirodna i antropogena osnova turizma Hrvatske (P. Ružić and D. Demonja, 2013, Prirodna i antropogena osnova turizma Hrvatske, Poreč Institute of Agriculture and Tourism).
As an attractive tourist destination in mainland Croatia thanks to its history and culture, Hrvatsko Zagorje has also been drawing in scores of visitors with its gastronomy based on traditional local products. ‘Zagorski mlinci’ feature regularly in a multitude of brochures on Hrvatsko Zagorje and can be found on the menu of virtually every inn and restaurant.
The gastronomy of Hrvatsko Zagorje was showcased at the International Art of Gastronomy in Istria congress, held in the town of Umag in 2012. The participants were particularly intrigued by the preparation of ‘Zagorski mlinci’, which were served with ‘Zagorski puran’. As chef Gissur Guðmundsson, president of the World Association of Chefs Societies, put it: ‘“Zagorski mlinci” are a unique gastronomic experience’.
The link between Hrvatsko Zagorje and ‘Zagorski mlinci’ is further borne out by the fact that ‘Zagorski mlinci’ appear in the culinary guide Vodič kroz hrvatske gastro ikone [Croatian Gourmet Guide]. The following quote is taken from the section on Hrvatsko Zagorje, under the heading ‘Zagorski mlinci’: ‘This seemingly simple side dish that accompanies roast turkey, duck or goose has such a great reputation that there is no need to point out that it originates from the region of Hrvatsko Zagorje’. The guide also contains an indispensable recipe for turkey with mlinci (Gastronomadi 2007, Croatian Gourmet Guide).
The reputation of ‘Zagorski mlinci’ and the link between the product and Hrvatsko Zagorje were also corroborated by a poll of 1 000 respondents in 2016. The poll found that 79 % of people in Croatia associate mlinci with Hrvatsko Zagorje, while 80 % consider ‘Zagorski mlinci’ to be a foodstuff originating from Hrvatsko Zagorje. Moreover, as many as 95 % of all respondents believe that ‘Zagorski mlinci’ should be mentioned in promotional material, culinary publications and monographs related to Hrvatsko Zagorje. According to the poll, 68 % of the respondents will pick ‘Zagorski mlinci’ in a shop if given a choice between ‘Zagorski mlinci’ and just mlinci. A good four-fifths of the people polled believe that ‘Zagorski mlinci’ is a product that is renowned within Croatia. Most of the respondents completely agree that ‘Zagorski mlinci’ taste good (average score of 4,54 on a 1-5 scale) and many support the statements about a strong link between mlinci and Hrvatsko Zagorje (average score of 4,4 on a 1-5 scale) (Hendal Market Research, 2016, Prepoznatljivost zagorskih mlinaca, a survey, Zagreb).
‘Zagorski mlinci’ are marketed under this very name and are available in virtually all good shops across Croatia (leaflet by Metro Cash&Carry).
Reference to publication of the product specification
(the second subparagraph of Article 6(1) of this Regulation)
http://www.mps.hr/datastore/filestore/109/Izmijenjena_Specifikacija_proizvoda_Zagorski_mlinci.pdf