Publication of an application for registration of a name pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2023/C 281/06)

This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

’ Cebola da Madeira '

EU No: PDO-PT-02800 — 23.8.2021

PDO (X ) PGI ( )

1.   Name(s) [of PDO or PGI]

’ Cebola da Madeira '

2.   Member State or Third Country

Portugal

3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product

Class 1.6. Fruit, vegetables and cereals, fresh or processed

3.2.   Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Cebola da Madeira’ is the name given to bulbs of the species Allium cepa L. of the traditional varieties grown on the inhabited islands of the Madeira archipelago, i.e. ‘Branca’; ‘Pião’; ‘Bujanico’; ‘Vermelha’; ‘Roxa’ and ‘Do Tarde’, produced according to the traditional practices on the islands of Madeira and Porto Santo.

Physico-chemical characteristics

Bulbs of the traditional varieties of ‘Cebola da Madeira’ have unique morphological characteristics that are reflected in the common names attributed to them by the people of Madeira, i.e.:

—	Shape ranging from oblate to globe-shaped or from globe-shaped to conical (in the case of the ‘Pião’ [meaning ‘spinning top’] variety), with average uniformity across varieties in terms of shape and size and an average weight of between 180 g/bulb and 250 g/bulb;

—

Outer skin normally yellow, with violet tones in the traditional varieties ‘Vermelha’ [meaning ‘red’] and ‘Roxa’ [meaning ‘purple’] and very uniform colouring, slightly opaque or more translucent and shiny (in the case of the ‘Branca’ [meaning ‘white’] variety). Adherence to the bulb ranges from medium to very low;

—	The flesh is mostly white, with reddish or purplish hues in the traditional varieties ‘Vermelha and ‘Roxa’. Layer thickness is medium to thin and consistency is medium to tender.

The bulbs of these varieties are quite succulent, with average dry matter contents close to 10 g/100g, and slightly higher if produced on the island of Porto Santo.

They are very rich in carbohydrates (above 7 g/100g on average) and vitamin C (above 10 mg/100g on average), which gives them unique organoleptic characteristics and antioxidant properties that have always been appreciated by consumers in Madeira.

Organoleptic characteristics

When raw, the consistency of ‘Cebola da Madeira’ is crunchy and juicy, not very fibrous and varying in softness. Some of its crunchiness is lost when cooked, as it becomes juicier and more translucent.

The aroma is distinctive with hints of sweetness and notes of sulphur or garlic, earthy or vegetal and fresh, with low pungency and persistence and medium to high intensity and complexity. When cooked, they become milder, acquiring smoky/grilled or caramel notes, while maintaining their intensity and complexity.

When fresh, the flavours vary in terms of sweetness and are not pungent to start with. The finish in the mouth is more peppery, with fresh sulphur or vegetal notes and sometimes a degree of astringency, acidity or slight bitterness that is lessened by chewing. Intensity and complexity are medium to high. Some of the intensity is lost in cooking and they become sweeter, reminiscent of caramel or roasted notes (particularly when grilled). The fresh vegetal flavour disappears and any sulphurous notes also become milder, with a better balance between acidity and sweetness, no astringency and less spiciness and persistence in general.

3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

—

3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

All the stages of production of ‘Cebola da Madeira’ take place in the identified geographical area.

3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

—

3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

—

4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

Islands of Madeira and Porto Santo

5.   Link with the geographical area

Natural factors

The location of the Madeira archipelago, in the subtropical region of the North Atlantic, means that the climate of the islands is constrained by the action of the Azores subtropical anticyclone. In the case of the island of Madeira itself, it is predominantly temperate, with mild, dry summers (between 10 °C and 22 °C in the warmest month) and more rainfall in the cold season, when temperatures remain mild (below 18 °C but above -3 °C in the coldest month). The island of Porto Santo is located 40 km north-east of Madeira. Its area above water is just 42 km2 and its relief is gentle and rather flat (more than 85 % of the island is less than 200 m in altitude). Its climate is drier and temperate all year round, with an average annual temperature of 18,6 °C. The sea has a moderating effect on its constrained island environment, with the result that temperature variation is low. Annual rainfall is below 400 mm.

The effect of the trade winds, combined with the rugged terrain of the island of Madeira, which has a high central mountain range running east to west formed by rocky mountains at an altitude of more than 1 200 m, means that the climate varies from dry to humid with moderate to heavy rainfall the higher the altitude. At high altitudes, this contributes towards the formation of the permanent mist and fog that are responsible for the high humidity levels and precipitation. A network of channels, referred to locally as ‘levadas’, fed by streams, boreholes and springs, and more importantly, by manmade water collection tunnels and galleries, carries water from upland areas and the northern slope. This guarantees the supply of water to population settlements and for agricultural development purposes all over the island.

On Porto Santo, most of the freshwater comes from underground. There are also some torrential streams with occasional drainage. This island’s water supply system for irrigation is fed by rainwater carried to the Tanque reservoir, groundwater captured in the Campo de Baixo borehole and the waterwheels in the area of the Tanque reservoir, as well as water treated at the island’s wastewater treatment plant.

The soils on the island of Madeira are mostly of basaltic origin. Phaeozems and chromic and dystric Cambisols predominate in the areas where ‘Cebola da Madeira’ is produced. The onions can also be grown in Andosols in the areas that are more exposed and at higher altitude. The geology of the island of Porto Santo is much more diverse, essentially consisting of basic volcanic (basalts), intermediate-acidic (trachytes and rhyolites) and sedimentary rocks. Most of its soils can be classified in the Calcisol group.

Generally speaking, the soils on both of the islands are generally medium to deep. On the island of Madeira, they are generally fine in texture with a high silt content, medium to very high organic matter content and slightly acidic to neutral or more acidic in the case of the Andosols in upland areas. On Porto Santo, the sandy and loamy soils that predominate are quite permeable, with lower organic matter content and a more alkaline profile, although the biological origin of most of the sand and sandstone on the land results in a more favourable pH.

Human factors

‘Cebola da Madeira’ has played a significant role in the diet of the local populations since it was introduced on the islands of Madeira and Porto Santo by the first Portuguese settlers in the early decades of the fifteenth century. It was particularly important in rural areas, as recorded by the many foreigners that visited or lived on the islands between the 17th and 19th centuries.

The traditional method of producing ‘Cebola da Madeira’ has remained unchanged at least since the early decades of the 20th century. This is explained in various articles published in the ‘Frutas de Madeira’ [Fruits of Madeira] newsletter (published between April 1941 and January 1958), which describe the onions cultivated at the time and others that were being introduced (which correspond to the traditional varieties currently being grown). This publication also provides various recommendations on certain growing, fertilisation and plant protection practices, which are still referred and adhered to by local producers.

The great importance of this crop in the diet of the people of Madeira means that it is grown for own consumption and direct sales on the island’s small family farms, as well as on commercial holdings on the island of Madeira for supply to the regional market.

The parish of Caniço (on Madeira island) is particularly important for the production of ‘Cebola da Madeira’. As well as guaranteeing most of the regional supply, it has hosted the ‘Festa da Cebola’ [Onion Festival] since 1997 to promote this traditional product and preserve its specific production method. On the island of Porto Santo, recently recognised as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, this crop is included in the strategic objective of safeguarding, enhancing and optimising the island’s agricultural and cultural resources.

Specificity of the product

‘Cebola da Madeira’ bulbs are distinctive for their juicy, low fibre texture and by their rich carbohydrate and vitamin C content, which contribute towards their sweet aroma and taste and generally low pungency. The finish in the mouth is more peppery, with slight sulphur or vegetal notes and sometimes a degree of astringency, acidity or slight bitterness that is lessened by chewing. When cooked, this results in less intense but much sweeter flavours, reminiscent of caramel or roasted notes (particularly when grilled), as the fresh vegetal flavour disappears and there is a better balance between acidity and sweetness.

These attributes make ‘Cebola da Madeira’ ideal for pickling (‘cebolas de escabeche’) and for use in various dishes belonging to the traditional or regional contemporary cuisine. This means it continues to be very important in the gastronomy of Madeira and is considered to be an important crop on the islands of Madeira and Porto Santo alike.

Causal link between the geographical area and the characteristics of the product

The highly specialised farmers on the islands of Madeira and Porto Santo have always selected the bulbs of the different traditional varieties with the best characteristics in each harvest. These are then kept to produce the ‘cebolinho’ [spring onion], the local name for the seeds (and the resulting seedlings) used to produce ‘Cebola da Madeira’, which are sourced exclusively from their holdings or from those of other local producers.

The ongoing practice of propagating, exchanging and sharing the ‘cebolinho’ seedlings to produce ‘Cebola da Madeira’ has helped develop and preserve the specific characteristics of the traditional varieties, which are linked to the particular characteristics of the soil and climate on the islands, as well as to the expertise of local producers acquired over several generations.

The traditional varieties of ‘Cebola da Madeira’ have adapted well to the deep, well-drained soils on the islands. For the most part, clayey-sandy soils (Madeira) and sandy-clayey soils (Porto Santo) have proven to be the type that are best suited to the water and nutrient storage that are essential in determining their properties.

The production of ‘Cebola da Madeira’ is heavily dependent on the work of the farmers, as all of the practices - from preparing the ‘cebolinho’ seedlings, transplanting them and tending the crop until it is harvested, as well as preparation for placement on the market on most holdings - are carried out by hand.

Planting by hand with well-defined spaces between each onion helps ensure that the bulbs are uniform in terms of average weight and size. The texture of the soils and the steps taken to prepare the soil, including weeding and hoeing, during crop development, combine to ensure that ‘the earth is loosely packed around the bulbs’, which in turn results in homogeneous shaping for each traditional variety.

The marked influence of temperature and light (sunshine) on the growing cycle of this crop, especially as regards the development of bulbs, but also on their entry into flowering for seed formation, means that on both islands farmers know very well which traditional varieties, depending on the requirements of their photoperiod and the climatic conditions of the area, are best suited to their locality and what is the best time for their production.

On the island of Madeira, this crop can be grown from the coastline up to an altitude of 800 m, in areas with warm microclimates and good exposure, where a regular supply of irrigation water is guaranteed by the network of ‘levadas’ or channels. In the lower altitude and sunnier areas of the southern slope, the early traditional varieties (‘Branca’, ‘Pião’ and ‘Bujanico’) are sown in September to be transplanted in December and harvested in March/April. At higher altitudes or on the northern slope and also on the island of Porto Santo, these ‘cebolas do cedo’ or ‘early onions’ are not sown until at least a month later.

The traditional varieties sown later in the year (‘Vermelha’, ‘Roxa’ and ‘Do Tarde’), referred to locally as ‘cebolas do tarde’ or ‘late onions’, need longer days with over 14 hours of sunlight for the bulbs to form properly. They also need more humidity and for water to be available in the summer months. These varieties are therefore grown mostly at higher altitude and on the northern slope of Madeira, being sown in December/January for transplanting in March/April and harvesting in July/August.

The temperature and exposure (light) conditions in the production areas on the two islands also encourage a high rate of photosynthesis in the bulbs, which causes sugars and nutrients to synthesise, hence the richness in carbohydrates and vitamin C for which ‘Cebola da Madeira’ has always been said to have antioxidant properties when consumed raw.

The stage at which this crop is most sensitive to water stress is when the bulbs are growing, so the local farmers ensure the best humidity conditions for the development of their plantations, which are first irrigated after the seedlings are transplanted and frequently thereafter. Depending on the production area, the crop is irrigated once or twice a week during the bulb growing stage and less frequently during the ripening stage.

Farmers have traditionally relied on the ‘levada’ irrigation channels, using wooden paddles to sprinkle water on the entire plot, while taking care not to remove the soil (so as not to leave the bulbs exposed) and ensuring that it did not become waterlogged. Nowadays, as well as this practice, sprinklers are used for irrigation on the island of Madeira. On the island of Porto Santo, the local soil conditions mean that drip irrigation is the preferred method. On both islands, periods of water scarcity are reduced by the availability of water from irrigation, even in the summer, for both the early and late varieties. This allows for higher humidity content in the bulbs and helps ensure low bitterness and pungency.

Reference to publication of the specification

https://www.dgadr.gov.pt/dop-igp-etg

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(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.