RECOMMENDATION OF THE EUROPEAN CENTRAL BANK

of 24 April 2023

to the Council of the European Union on the external auditors of the Central Bank of Malta

(ECB/2023/12)

(2023/C 156/01)

THE GOVERNING COUNCIL OF THE EUROPEAN CENTRAL BANK,

Having regard to the Treaty on the Functioning of the European Union,

Having regard to the Statute of the European System of Central Banks and of the European Central Bank, and in particular Article 27.1 thereof,

Whereas:

(1)	The accounts of the European Central Bank (ECB) and the national central banks of the Member States whose currency is the euro are audited by independent external auditors recommended by the ECB’s Governing Council and approved by the Council of the European Union.

(2)	Following the audit for the financial year 2022, the mandate of the Central Bank of Malta’s external auditors, KPMG, was terminated by mutual agreement. It is therefore necessary to appoint external auditors from the financial year 2023.

(3)	The Central Bank of Malta has selected Deloitte Audit Ltd as its external auditors for the financial years 2023 to 2027,

HAS ADOPTED THIS RECOMMENDATION:

It is recommended that Deloitte Audit Ltd should be appointed as the external auditors of the Central Bank of Malta for the financial years 2023 to 2027.

STATUTES OF ACTRIS ERIC

(2023/C 156/02)

PREAMBLE

WHEREAS the science of climate change and air quality requires understanding of spatial and temporal variability of short-lived atmospheric constituents;

WHEREAS deeper understanding of the driving forces of climate change and air pollution requires observation of the four-dimensional distribution of short-lived atmospheric constituents;

WHEREAS deeper understanding of the atmospheric variability of short-lived atmospheric constituents requires knowledge of the complex processes driving their interactions;

WHEREAS the science of climate change and air quality requires secured access to long-term observational data provided with adequate precision and geographical coverage;

WHEREAS improving knowledge and technologies for the science of climate change and air quality requires access to highly instrumented research platforms in natural and controlled atmospheres;

WHEREAS ACTRIS provides a unique expertise in metrology of aerosols, clouds and reactive trace gases, in the provision of data related to short-lived atmospheric constituents’ variability and in the procedures for accessing this information;

WHEREAS ACTRIS data products are required for completeness of the Earth observation system for climate and air quality and contribute to resolve the uncertainties in climate and Earth system models toward the development of sustainable solutions for responding to environmental challenges;

WHEREAS ACTRIS intends to raise the level of technology used in the distributed research infrastructure and the quality of services offered to a very wide community of users, involving partners from the private sector;

WHEREAS ACTRIS also promotes the training of operators and users and enhances the linkage between research, education and innovation in the field of atmospheric and climate science;

THEREFORE

the members and observers listed in Annex I

HAVE AGREED AS FOLLOWS:

CHAPTER 1

ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS

CHAPTER 2

MEMBERSHIP AND OBSERVERSHIP

CHAPTER 3

RIGHTS AND OBLIGATIONS OF MEMBERS AND OBSERVERS

CHAPTER 4

GOVERNANCE

CHAPTER 5

FINANCE AND CONTRIBUTIONS

CHAPTER 6

MISCELLANEOUS

Interest rate applied by the European Central Bank to its main refinancing operations (1):

3,50 % on 1 May 2023

Euro exchange rates (2)

2 May 2023

(2023/C 156/03)

1 euro =

	Currency	Exchange rate
USD	US dollar	1,0965
JPY	Japanese yen	150,70
DKK	Danish krone	7,4538
GBP	Pound sterling	0,87868
SEK	Swedish krona	11,2915
CHF	Swiss franc	0,9841
ISK	Iceland króna	149,70
NOK	Norwegian krone	11,7620
BGN	Bulgarian lev	1,9558
CZK	Czech koruna	23,587
HUF	Hungarian forint	371,98
PLN	Polish zloty	4,5758
RON	Romanian leu	4,9305
TRY	Turkish lira	21,3508
AUD	Australian dollar	1,6371
CAD	Canadian dollar	1,4885
HKD	Hong Kong dollar	8,6075
NZD	New Zealand dollar	1,7654
SGD	Singapore dollar	1,4646
KRW	South Korean won	1 470,32
ZAR	South African rand	20,1460
CNY	Chinese yuan renminbi	7,5791
IDR	Indonesian rupiah	16 143,37
MYR	Malaysian ringgit	4,8948
PHP	Philippine peso	60,712
RUB	Russian rouble
THB	Thai baht	37,478
BRL	Brazilian real	5,4853
MXN	Mexican peso	19,6703
INR	Indian rupee	89,7515

---

(1)  Rate applied to the most recent operation carried out before the indicated day. In the case of a variable rate tender, the interest rate is the marginal rate.

(2)  Source: reference exchange rate published by the ECB.

Publication of an application pursuant to Article 26(2) of Regulation (EU) 2019/787 of the European Parliament and of the Council on the definition, description, presentation and labelling of spirit drinks, the use of the names of spirit drinks in the presentation and labelling of other foodstuffs, the protection of geographical indications for spirit drinks, the use of ethyl alcohol and distillates of agricultural origin in alcoholic beverages, and repealing Regulation (EC) No 110/2008

(2023/C 156/04)

This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 27 of Regulation (EU) 2019/787 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1).

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘Borzag pálinka’

EU No: PGI-HU-02845

Submitted on 23.5.2022

1.   Name to be registered

‘Borzag pálinka’

2.   Category of the spirit drink

9.	Fruit spirit

3.   Geographical indication type

Geographical Indication

4.   Description of the characteristics of the spirit drink

Physical, chemical or organoleptic characteristics

Made from the stone fruit of wild danewort or dwarf elderberry (Sambucus ebulus), which is known colloquially in Hungarian as borzag, ‘Borzag pálinka’

—	is clear and generally colourless, although the particularly strong colour components of the fruit may be transferred to the final distillate through distillation and may even produce a pale yellowish shade during resting;

—	has a maximum permitted methanol content of 1 000 g/hl of 100 % vol. alcohol and a hydrogen cyanide content not exceeding 7 g/hl of 100 % vol. alcohol;

—	has a unique, particularly pronounced character and a strong taste and aroma.

Specific characteristics (compared to spirit drinks of the same category)

—

‘Borzag pálinka’ has an alcoholic strength greater than 40 % vol., because its aromatic characteristics prevail and develop properly at a higher alcoholic strength; it has a volatile substance content of not less than 350 g/hl of 100 % vol. alcohol, which is due to the aromatic richness of the raw material, danewort, in Nógrád County.

—	The characteristic aromatic notes of ‘Borzag pálinka’ include sweetness (a pleasant flavour of chocolate, fruit and honey), spiciness, possibly a herbal character (mint, green herbs, vanilla, anise, juniper), while notes of orange peel and marzipan derived from the stone berries may also appear.

5.   Definition of the geographical area

The administrative area of Nógrád County

6.   Method of producing the spirit drink

The fruit originating in the defined area may be mashed, fermented, distilled and rested in a distillery located in the geographical area.

The main stages in the production of ‘Borzag pálinka’ are as follows:

1.	Selection and acceptance of the fruit

2.

Mashing

3.	Fermentation

4.	Distillation

5.	Resting, storage

6.	Production and treatment of the pálinka

6.1.   Selection and acceptance of the fruit

The fruit must be ripe and free of decaying grains and extraneous matter.

6.2.   Mashing

The small-grained fruit must be de-stemmed and the grains crushed, but only to the extent that the stone is not damaged (reducing the possibility of hydrogen cyanide formation). The raw material is then fed directly into (stainless steel, possibly plastic) fermentation tanks.

Depending on the consistency of the fruit, it may be necessary to add water if the berries are raisined, because only then can fermentation take place in the right form.

6.3.   Fermentation

The use of state-of-the-art technologies and auxiliary materials (controlled fermentation, cultured yeasts, pectic enzymes) is permitted and recommended. The optimum pH of the mash is between 2,8 and 3,5. The fermented mash should be distilled as soon as possible, but not later than 30 days after fermentation. If necessary, the fermented mash should be stored at 10–22 °C.

6.4.   Distillation

‘Borzag pálinka’ may be produced using any commercially available distillation equipment. Pot still technology may be specifically mentioned if the pálinka was produced using distillation equipment with a maximum capacity of 1 000 litres and a copper surface, by means of at least double fractional distillation.

6.5.   Resting, storage

After refining/distillation, ‘Borzag pálinka’ must be rested in a room protected from light, with a uniform temperature of less than 20 °C and moderate humidity, to allow the complex flavours and fragrances to blend. The duration of the resting period must be at least 60 days. During that time, no physical or chemical processes should be carried out on the pálinka.

6.6.   Production and treatment of the pálinka

The alcoholic strength of the rested distillate must be adjusted to the level suitable for consumption, by adding softened water, with a minimum of 40 % V/V, because the aromatic characteristics of ‘Borzag pálinka’ prevail and develop properly at a higher alcoholic strength. (The alcoholic strength after dilution may differ by ± 0,3 % V/V from the value stated on the label.)

The degree of alcohol suitable for consumption should be set very carefully, in several stages, by adding 5–10 % of water at a time, over a period of several days, to prevent opalescence and protect the aromatic components.

7.   Specific rules concerning packaging

—

8.   Specific rules concerning labelling

In addition to the elements specified in the legislation, the labelling also contains the following:

—	‘Földrajzi jelzés’ [geographical indication] (separate from the name)

—	The name ‘Borzag pálinka’ must be displayed on all bottle labels (on the front and/or back and/or side).

9.   Description of the link between the spirit drink and its origin

The link between ‘Borzag pálinka’ and the area is based on the product’s characteristics and reputation.

The raw material for ‘Borzag pálinka’ is the stone fruit of wild danewort (dwarf elderberry) – also known in Hungarian as borzag – originating in Nógrád County.

Borzag is the popular, original name given to Sambucus ebulus L., or dwarf elderberry, by the Hungarians of Nógrád County (Pallas Nagylexikon: https://mek.oszk.hu/00000/00060/html/015/pc001524.html#10), which demonstrates clearly that ‘Borzag pálinka’ originates in Nógrád County, since it is only here that dwarf elderberry is known as borzag. In addition, Sándor Póczos states in his book on ‘Borzag pálinka’ that there is a county in Hungary, namely Nógrád, where the dwarf elderberry (borzag) is widely known, and the processing of pálinka is accepted and even natural.

Nógrád County is located in the northern part of Hungary, at the intersection of four mountain ranges (Börzsöny, Mátra, Cserhát and Karancs-Medves). In terms of its topography, the area consists of scattered mountain ranges of volcanic origin, 400-600 m in height, including patches of forest (accounting for around 40 % of the county’s territory). The area has a low natural water supply. The area’s poor, acidic, hard soil and specific climatic conditions – cool, humid and shaded areas – are favourable to growing the fruit, which is confirmed by studies. The defining characteristics of the elderberry are largely influenced by the weather. Thanks to the environmental conditions, the dwarf elderberry grown in the region is very rich in bitter ester iridoid glycosides (ebuloside, isosweroside), saponin, tannin, cyanogenic glycosides, resin, essential oil and organic acids. The bitter taste of the iridoid glycosides contributes significantly to the marzipan flavour and spicy character of ‘Borzag pálinka’. Its berries also contain a high proportion of essential oil, sugar, cyanogenic glycoside and purple dye, which account for its aromatic notes of sweetness and the occasionally pale yellowish shade of the rested pálinka.

The production of ‘Borzag pálinka’ in Nógrád County dates back centuries. In view of the centuries-old traditions, almost all commercial distilleries in Nógrád County make pálinka from dwarf elderberry. It is only in these parts (Nógrád County) that the plant is known as borzag; elsewhere, it is known as gyalogbodza [the standard Hungarian term for dwarf elderberry].

As early as the mid-1800s, this hardy, undemanding plant had become widespread in Nógrád County, as Zoltán Szerémy, who was born in Nógrádmegyer in 1861, recalls: ‘... But the land was more diligent and zealous than its farmers. It grew of its own accord a dwarf elderberry-like shrub…’ (Zoltán Szerémy: Emlékeim a régi jó időkből [My memories of the good old days] pp. 27-28. Színészek Szövetsége. Budapest, 1929).

The dwarf elderberry is part of folk medicine; it was used to make jam, and in addition to sporadic occurrences in the region inhabited by the Palóc people, most notably in Nógrád County, it was and still is used to produce pálinka. This is also demonstrated by an article in the Nógrád Megyei Hírlap [Nógrád County Gazette] entitled Forró az üst, forr a cefre [The cauldron is hot, the mash is boiling] (21 September 2004, p. 2), which mentions the three main ingredients in local pálinka-making: apples, pears and, in third place, dwarf elderberries (borzag).

Awards demonstrating the reputation of ‘Borzag pálinka’:

—	2012 – First National Contest of Pálinka made from Forest and Wild Fruit – Gold medal

—	2013 – Second National Contest of Pálinka made from Forest and Wild Fruit – Gold medal

—	2014 – Third National Contest of Pálinka made from Forest and Wild Fruit – Silver medal

—	2015 – 11th Mátra Wine and Spirit Contest – Gold medal

—	2016 – Fourth National Contest of Pálinka made from Forest and Wild Fruit – Gold medal

—	2018 – Pálinka College – Fortissimus Spiritus Award

—	2020 National Pálinka and Grape Marc Pálinka Contest – Silver medal

‘Borzag pálinka’ is also on offer at the region’s top four-star hotel as a curiosity of Nógrád County.

An increasing number of producers are entering ‘Borzag pálinka’ in the annual National Contest of Pálinka made from Forest and Wild Fruit.

Although ‘Borzag pálinka’ is established and well-known in Nógrád County, regrettably few written records demonstrating the product’s reputation are available. To fill the gap, a publication by Sándor Póczos entitled Palócok pálinkája, a borzag [Borzag (dwarf elderberry) – the pálinka of the Palóc people] appeared in 2018 and provides historical evidence in support of the product’s local renown. The publication also includes memories and descriptions of ‘Borzag pálinka’ by a number of people living in or originating from Nógrád County (also known as the Palóc people).

In his book Palócok pálinkája, a borzag, Sándor Póczos states that the reputation of ‘Borzag pálinka’ is linked to the geographical area in the following way: ‘There is another important aspect that explains the spread of the dwarf elderberry in Nógrád. It is a basic fact that if something does not work somewhere, it will not be imposed there, because it will not be good or simply will not yield the expected result. Perhaps because the raw material was available in relatively large quantities and did not require any particular investment or care, it is likely that the production of “Borzag pálinka” was also attempted in other parts of the country, but without any success. As there were no real marked differences in the technology used to produce distilled spirits at the time, environmental factors alone may account for the specificity of “Borzag pálinka” from Nógrád County. We can rightly assume that it is the above-average affinity of the land, climate and, last but not least, the Palóc people, that elevates this pálinka speciality to a value far beyond the county.’

Product specification – publication reference

https://gi.kormany.hu/foldrajzi-arujelzok

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(1)  OJ L 130, 17.5.2019, p. 1.

Publication of an application for registration of a name pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2023/C 156/05)

This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

’Szabolcsi alma'

EU No: PGI-HU-02852 — 22.6.2022

PDO ( ) PGI (X)

1.   Name(s) of PGI

’Szabolcsi alma'

2.   Member State or Third Country

Hungary

3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product

Class 1.6: Fruit, vegetables and cereals, fresh or processed

3.2.   Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

The protected geographical indication ‘Szabolcsi alma’ may be used for apples for fresh consumption of the Gala, Jonathan, Jonagold, Golden Delicious, Red Delicious, Idared and Pinova varieties of the species Malus domestica and their variants (mutants/clones) grown in the defined geographical area with the quality characteristics specified below.

The qualitative characteristics of ‘Szabolcsi alma’ are as follows:

—	they are sweetly acidic, with a refreshing taste and smell and crunchy flesh;

—	they have a high sugar content: at least 12 °Brix for Gala, Red Delicious and Idared, and at least 13 °Brix for Jonathan, Jonagold, Golden Delicious and Pinova, depending on the variety;

—	they have a flesh firmness of at least 5,5 kg/cm2.

The qualitative characteristics related to the size (shape, average weight, diameter) and skin colour, depending on the variety, are shown in the table:

Variety	Size	Skin colour
Gala	Small, spherical or flattened Average weight: 150-170 g Diameter: 65-85 mm	The basic colour when ripe is yellowish with a washed red surface, with stripes on some variants.
Jonathan	Medium to small Conical-spherical, slightly ribbed, symmetrical Average weight: 120-130 g Diameter: 65-75 mm	The basic colour when ripe is yellowish green, with bright-red skin bearing broad, dark-red stripes.
Jonagold	Large, spherical or slightly conical, well balanced, minimally ribbed Average weight: 220-250 g Diameter: 70-90 mm	The basic colour is yellowish green and 40-60 % of the skin is light red/dark red.
Golden Delicious	Spherical or slightly elongated truncated cone-shaped Average weight: 140-180 g Diameter: 70-85 mm	The basic colour is greenish yellow, later yellow.
Red Delicious	Medium large or large, elongated, ribbed above the sepal Average weight: 150-170 g Diameter: 70-90 mm	The basic colour is washed with dark red, striped, and the whole lightly striped surface is a shiny deep red.
Idared	Medium to large, flattened sphere-shaped and finely ribbed Average weight: 170-220 g Diameter: 70-95 mm	Its basic colour is bright red and it has a washed skin.
Pinova	Medium, slightly elongated, cone-shaped Average weight: 150-180 g Diameter: 65-85 mm	The basic colour is yellow, with more than half the surface covered or striped with a characteristic vermilion colour.

3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

—

3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

‘Szabolcsi alma’ may be cultivated and harvested only in the geographical area specified in point 4.

3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

—

3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

The PGI ‘Szabolcsi alma’ must appear in characters larger than those of any other inscription on the package label.

4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

‘Szabolcsi alma’ is cultivated and harvested within the administrative boundaries of Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg County.

5.   Link with the geographical area

The link between ‘Szabolcsi alma’ and the geographical area is based on quality.

‘Szabolcsi alma’ can be differentiated from other apples on the basis of the specific characteristics set out in point 3.2.

The specific characteristics of ‘Szabolcsi alma’ set out in point 3.2 are the result of the close connection between the geographical area, the favourable soil and climatic conditions of the production area and the considerable expertise of the apple growers.

The soil conditions of Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg County are excellent for apple production. The soil and topographical-climatic conditions of the natural geographical areas of Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg County have made it possible for apple and other fruit species native to temperate climates to be grown in an economically viable way in the county (Pethő, 2005).

Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg County has the second largest alluvial plain in Hungary, which rises to a height of 20 to 50 metres from the Transtisza floodplain. The humus content – around 2 % – and high calcium content of the chernozem soil which developed on the sandy loess soil on the flat parts of the alluvial plain, together with the light silt soil laid down by tributaries of the Tisza, are favourable for the planting of apple trees.

The number of hours of sunshine is between 1 950 and 2 050, which is some 300-400 hours more than in countries to the west and north of Hungary. The county’s climatic conditions are therefore favourable to apple production. In addition to sunshine, its climate is also influenced by oceanic, continental and Mediterranean air masses. As a result, at times an oceanic and at other times a continental climate influence is dominant.

The growing season in Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg County starts 6-8 days later than in other counties in Hungary. Summers are moderately warm, with an average July temperature of 20-23 °C. In the autumn months, the daily average temperature is 1-2 °C lower than in the rest of the country due to higher night radiation, allowing the maturation process to be slowed down.

The internal qualities and enjoyment value of ‘Szabolcsi alma’ are determined primarily by environmental factors during ripening: temperature, sunlight and early morning moisture. The relative humidity of the air is around 75 % during the summer months. The higher relative humidity in September has an extremely beneficial effect on the colouring of the fruit and the pace of ripening. The ripening process of ‘Szabolcsi alma’ is therefore slower and more of the various nutrients are incorporated into the fruit. As a result, ‘Szabolcsi alma’ has a high sugar content: at least 12 °Brix for Gala, Red Delicious and Idared, and at least 13 °Brix for Jonathan, Jonagold, Golden Delicious and Pinova, depending on the variety. It is the high sugar content which gives ‘Szabolcsi alma’ its sweetly acidic character.

In September the warm days, high relative humidity and night cooling together with early morning dew formation contribute significantly to the vibrant colouring of ‘Szabolcsi alma’ and to the development of high acidity and aromas, resulting in a sweetly acidic flavour.

The high calcium content of the soil means that the flesh of the fruit also has a higher calcium content, resulting in the crunchy flesh and firmness of at least 5,5 kg/cm2 of ‘Szabolcsi alma’.

In addition to having an ideal production area, growers in Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg County benefit from expertise stemming from experience accumulated over centuries, which has a positive impact on the production of ‘Szabolcsi alma’. Expertise in the production of ‘Szabolcsi alma’ is passed down from generation to generation in the defined geographical area.

Crucial to the characteristics set out in point 3.2 is the up-to-date knowledge of producers in terms of varieties, the use of certified propagating material and apple cultivation. The Újfehértó Research Station of the Fruit and Ornamental Plant Cultivation Research Institute has supported this for over 70 years with variety maintenance, the production of certified propagating material and the provision of expert advice. The research station works on research into the ‘Szabolcsi alma’ production area, the registration of fruit trees, the cultivation and physiological study of apple varieties, and the development of varietal certification methods.

Fruit production has a centuries-old tradition in Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg County thanks to the beneficial soil and climatic conditions. This is attested to in the works of the famous Ottoman traveller, Evliya Çelebi, who wrote in his volumes describing his travels in Hungary between 1660 and 1666 about the richness of the orchards in Szabolcs, the wealth of the growers and the extremely flavourful fruit. He also describes the production of such an abundance of fruit in the area that it provided ample sustenance for the invading Ottoman armies.

After the Second World War, a large plantation scheme was launched, resulting in the creation of almost 50 % of the country’s apple plantations in Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg County, which account for more than half of the national output.

The reputation of Hungarian apple cultivation was founded on ‘Szabolcsi alma’. The name ‘Szabolcsi alma’ has come to denote a high-quality brand. (T. Szabó – Zs. Csoma 2001).

Reference to publication of the specification

https://gi.kormany.hu/foldrajzi-arujelzok

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(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.

Publication of an application for registration of a name pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2023/C 156/06)

This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

’Sidra da Madeira'

EU No: PGI-PT-02641 — 14.10.2020

PDO ( ) PGI (X)

1.   Name(s)

’Sidra da Madeira'

2.   Member State or Third Country

Portugal

3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product

Class 1.8. Other products listed in Annex I to the Treaty (spices etc.)

3.2.   Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Sidra da Madeira’ is the beverage obtained by fermenting the natural juice pressed from the fresh fruit of traditional and other varieties of apple (Malus domestica Borkh.) and, sometimes, mixtures of apple and pear (Pyrus communis L.), grown exclusively on the island of Madeira. It is made in accordance with production methods that are traditional or specific to the island.

It is a natural cider produced exclusively by fermenting the juice obtained by cutting, milling, crushing and pressing locally grown apples and, sometimes, pears, meaning that its sugar and carbon dioxide content is of purely endogenous origin. It also exists as a carbonated natural cider, rendered effervescent wholly or in part by the addition of carbon dioxide.

In general terms, it has the following characteristics: minimum alcoholic strength of 5 % (by volume at 20 oC); fermentable sugar content of less than 15 g/l; minimum total acidity (in malic acid) of 3 g/l and up to 10 g/l; maximum volatile acidity (expressed as acetic acid) of 1,8 g/l and maximum total sulphur dioxide content (expressed as SO2) of 200 mg/l.

Depending on the combination of species and varieties of fruit used, ‘Sidra da Madeira’ is bright lemon yellow to straw yellow in colour, with orangey tints, with a clear appearance if filtered or with some sediment if unfiltered.

It has a fresh, authentic aroma, revealing a fruity character of medium to strong intensity, with marked notes of green apple, ripe apple, quince and/or citrus fruit, forming a balanced, pleasant whole.

It is usually still, with a light, not very sweet taste that develops a harmonious balance between sharpness and bitterness, finishing dry. It is distinguished by a strong apple aroma and flavour and the freshness it derives from its notable acidity.

It is sold as bottled cider or as cider packaged in suitable containers (barrels or carboys) for sale in drinking and eating establishments and for retail sale to the final consumer.

3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The traditional varieties used to produce ‘Sidra da Madeira’ are the apples ‘Barral’, ‘Cara-de-dama’, ‘Branco’, ‘Bico de melro’, ‘Da Festa’, ‘Domingos’, ‘Da Ponta do Pargo’, ‘Calhau’, ‘Focinho de rato’ and ‘Vime’ and, in some cases, the pears ‘Do Santo’ and ‘Tenra de São Jorge’.

The Madeiran farmers’ age-old practice of propagating and sharing genetic material from the trees and fruits with the best characteristics for fresh consumption and/or cider production means that other cultivated varieties of apple and pear are still grown, in particular the apples ‘Baunesa’, ‘Camacha’, ‘Espelho’, ‘Parda’, ‘Rajada’, ‘Reineta Tenra da Camacha’, ‘Santa Isabel’, ‘Ázimo’, ‘Amarelo’, ‘Amargo’, ‘Camoesa’, ‘De vinho’, ‘Ouro’, ‘Pevide’, ‘Rajado’, ‘Rijo’, ‘Riscado’ and ‘Serra’ and the pears ‘Santa Isabel ou de Santana’, ‘São João’, ‘Curé’ and ‘Pardas’, which are also used, although to a lesser extent, in batches destined for the production of ‘Sidra da Madeira’.

Because some producers sought, from very early on, to diversify their orchards with exotic varieties for fresh consumption, such as the apples ‘Golden’, ‘Fuji’, ‘Starking’, ‘Royal Gala’ and ‘Reineta’ and the pear ‘Rocha’, many of which were already found on the island by Vieira Natividade in 1947, these fruits can also be used in the production of ‘Sidra da Madeira’ if they are available on the holding or have been grown exclusively on the island.

The mixing or ‘blending’ of this wide range of traditional apple and pear varieties, and sometimes also other apple and pear varieties, which may be more or less sharp, bitter or sweet and are grown on the island, is what produces the richness of colours, aromas and flavours and the refreshing acidity which distinguish the ‘Sidra da Madeira’ produced in various localities on the island by the various different producers.

3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

All the cidermaking stages, from production of the raw material, extraction of the natural juice and fermentation to ageing and preservation, take place on the island of Madeira.

3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

Packaging of ‘Sidra da Madeira’ in bottles or suitable containers (barrels or carboys) for retail sale to the final consumer takes place on the island of Madeira in order to ensure that the specific colours, aromas and flavours of this natural (sometimes carbonated) cider are preserved, avoiding any oxidisation or contamination which may impair its organoleptic characteristics, and in order to guarantee full traceability of the product.

3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

—

4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

The island of Madeira.

5.   Link with the geographical area

The application for registration of ‘Sidra da Madeira’ is founded on the link between its colour, aroma and flavour characteristics and marked acidity and, firstly, the wide range of combinations of fruit from traditional and other apple and pear varieties grown exclusively on the island of Madeira which are used to make it and, secondly, the soil and climatic conditions in the localities where the fresh fruit is grown. The strong reputation of ‘Sidra da Madeira’ and its importance in the various localities on the island where it is made also contribute to the link.

Specificity of the product

What distinguishes ‘Sidra da Madeira’ is that it is a natural (sometimes carbonated) cider with a wide range of colours, aromas and flavours and a vibrant acidity, which has made it very popular with consumers, and which is the result of fermenting the natural juice pressed from different ‘blends’ or combinations of the fresh fruit of traditional and other varieties of apple and, sometimes, pear which are grown and picked in orchards planted in various localities on the island of Madeira with more temperate microclimates and more acidic soil, from which the fruit derives its specific organoleptic characteristics.

It is also very well known by producers and consumers because it has always been very important to the inhabitants of the localities on the island where conditions are favourable for growing the fresh fruit from which it is made, where the most traditional cidermaking method was developed and where new practices authorised for this type of drink have been introduced to improve and differentiate its production. Those localities also have ‘festivals’ and folklore events that take place every year to promote their ‘Sidra da Madeira’ and the apples and pears from which it is made.

Specificity of the geographical area

Natural factors. Madeira is a volcanic island in the subtropical region of the North Atlantic. It has a very uneven relief, with steep mountains separated by deep valleys, forming a central mountain range running from east to west, perpendicular to the prevailing winds, with altitudes of over 1 200 m. Owing to its geographical location, Madeira has a mild climate with only small fluctuations in temperature, except on higher ground, where temperatures are lower. The island’s mountainous terrain and exposure to the trade winds have produced a wide variety of microclimates, the southern side being sunny and sheltered, while the northern side is shady, cooler and wet.

The characteristics of the dominant basaltic soils change with increasing altitude and the resulting change in the climate, which becomes wetter and colder. This is why the fruit used to produce ‘Sidra da Madeira’ is grown mainly in areas of the island with more temperate and humid microclimates – chiefly at altitudes of above 400 m on the south side and 300 m on the north side – where semi-acidic to acidic cambisols and andosols predominate, with good aeration and drainage.

Human factors. Among the fruit trees introduced by the first Portuguese settlers in the 1420s were numerous varieties of apple and pear brought over from Portugal, which found ideal growing conditions in the areas with more temperate microclimates and predominantly sandy clay soils with medium to high acidity.

It is thought that production of ‘Sidra da Madeira’ began as soon as the orchards produced enough fruit for consumption and processing. This is corroborated by the accounts of the chronicler Gomes Eanes de Zurara (1410–1474) and by other records indicating that ‘apple wine’ could be found among the supplies that the Portuguese fleets would collect from the island of Madeira from the middle of the 15th century onwards.

It is also known that, from the beginning of the 17th century, ‘apple wine’ was being produced alongside Madeira wine, using the same presses and, in some cases, was even used to adulterate it, until, at the beginning of the 20th century, a ban was introduced on making wine from apples to produce fake Madeira. This ban meant that local producers started fermenting their apple juice to make ‘a new beverage’, which they initially called ‘cidra’ or ‘sidra’ and then subsequently ‘Sidra da Madeira’, to differentiate it from cider produced elsewhere.

The article published in 1906 by the agronomist João da Mota Prego (1859–1931), describing the methods to be used to ‘make cider on Madeira’ and inviting local producers to take up cider production, made a significant contribution to its development, and many producers still follow his recommendations today. Furthermore, when describing the development of fruit growing on Madeira in 1947, the agronomist Vieira Natividade (1899–1968) mapped the wide range of apple and pear varieties on the island and identified the parishes where the tradition of cidermaking continued.

The ease with which pome fruit trees spread and the traditional Madeiran practice of propagating and sharing genetic material from the fruits with the best characteristics led to the emergence of numerous traditional apple and pear varieties descended from those initially introduced by the Portuguese, and later by the British living on the island between the 16th and 18th centuries. They were selected and preserved in different parts of the island, where those varieties which were best adapted to the local soil and climate conditions and produced the best fruit for consumption fresh and for cidermaking were kept and subsequently reproduced by grafting and planted in other parts of the island with similar characteristics.

Over the centuries, this practice has enabled not only the development of the main traditional varieties of pome fruits but also the more recent introduction of exotic apple and pear varieties, which are grown and picked in Madeiran orchards. These varieties also have notable acidity and are also used by some producers to make their ciders, which are obtained using traditional or specific production methods developed in different localities on the island.

For a long time, consumption of ‘Sidra da Madeira’ was restricted to the places in which it was produced, with the cider being consumed above all by those who made it and their families. In recent decades, the situation has changed, with a substantial increase in sales in restaurants and bars on the regional market, as well as an increase in direct sales to final consumers at local markets and fairs and at ‘festivals’ or folklore events held to promote the cider and the apples from which it is made.

Interest in the tradition and quality of this product led, in mid-2016, to the creation of the Madeiran Cidermakers Association (APSRAM), bringing together around 30 cider producers, with the aim of promoting and safeguarding the quality and authenticity of ‘Sidra da Madeira’, promoting research and publicising the product.

Link between the geographical area and the product’s characteristics and reputation

The specific soil and climate characteristics of the island’s localities, which favoured the adaptation and planting of orchards and individual trees of a wide range of apple and pear varieties, give their fruit its unique acidity and distinctive sensory characteristics, which, depending on the combination of fruit used to produce it, is also passed on to ‘Sidra da Madeira’ to a greater or lesser degree.

Thanks to the colour, aroma and flavour characteristics of ‘Sidra da Madeira’, which are determined by the specific characteristics of the ‘blends’ or combinations of fruit of traditional and other varieties of apple and, sometimes, pear used to make it, and its notable acidity, which is primarily the result of the soil and climate conditions of the localities where the fruit is grown, ‘Sidra da Madeira’ has won several national awards, such as the ‘Concurso Nacional de Cervejas e Sidras Tradicionais Portuguesas ’ [National Traditional Portuguese Beer and Cider Contest] and ‘Great Taste – Portugal’. It is, however, local consumers and, increasingly, tourists visiting the island who give it its excellent reputation.

The historical records attesting to the importance of ‘apple wine’, ‘cidra’, ‘sidra’ and ‘Sidra da Madeira’ production over the last 600 years have led the local producers to affirm that cider has been made on the island ever since it was first settled, in the areas where conditions are most suitable for planting the orchards that supply the fruit. This is why there is a strong cidermaking and cider-drinking tradition throughout the island, but chiefly in São Roque do Faial – Santana, Santo António da Serra – Machico, Camacha – Santa Cruz, Jardim da Serra – Câmara de Lobos, Ponta do Pargo – Calheta and Prazeres – Calheta, where, because of the very particular rivalry between the island communities, folklore and sociocultural events are held every year to promote the production and consumption of ‘Sidra da Madeira’.

Reference to publication of the specification

https://tradicional.dgadr.gov.pt/pt/cat/bebidas-espirituosas/outras-bebidas/1084-sidra-da-madeira-igp

---

(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.

Publication of an application for approval of an amendment, which is not minor, to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2023/C 156/07)

This publication confers the right to oppose the amendment application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.

APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF A NON-MINOR AMENDMENT TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION FOR A PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN OR PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION

Application for approval of an amendment in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012

‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’

EU No: PDO-AT-1413-AM01 – 5.4.2022

PDO (X) PGI ()

1.   Applicant group and legitimate interest

Vorarlberger Alpwirtschaftsverein, Montfortstr. 9, 6900 Bregenz, Austria

Tel. +43 5574400350

Fax +43 5574400600

Email: fritz.metzler@lk-vbg.at

The association’s original address has changed and has now been corrected accordingly. The applicant represents the interests of the producers of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ PDO and therefore has a legitimate interest in requesting amendments to the specification.

2.   Member State or Third Country

Austria

3.   Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)

☐	Name of product

☒	Description of product

☒	Geographical area

☒	Proof of origin

☒	Method of production

☒	Link with the geographical area

☒

Labelling

☒	Other (change to details of competent service, name of original applicant group, inspection body, national requirements, drafting amendments)

4.   Type of amendment(s)

☐	Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI which cannot be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

☒	Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI for which a single document (or equivalent) has not been published and which cannot be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

5.   Amendment(s)

In the light of the experience gained in dealing with the practical aspects of the protected designation since it was established, the amendments to the product specification being sought are necessary with a view to providing a more detailed description of all the important production and marketing conditions, including the various stages of production, and ensuring the quality of the ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ PDO.

The former product specification, consisting of several separate documents and annexes, has been merged into a single document, revised and updated in order to provide a clearer description of the requirements, in particular regarding the production method and the proof of origin, thus helping to preserve the quality of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ PDO.

More specifically, these amendments concern:

1.   Description of the product

The text under point 5(b) (Description) of the product specification has been included under point 4.2 (Description). That point has, in turn, been divided into points 4.2.1 (General) and 4.2.2 (Characteristics). The original text has been made more specific and structured. The FiDM content has been deleted. The weight of the individual cheese rounds has been increased to 40 kg (instead of 35 kg) and the minimum ripening period has been specified as being 3 months (instead of 3-6 months).

Point 5b of the product specification:

has been reworded as follows:

4.2.   Description

4.2.1   General

‘Voralberger Alpkäse’ is a hard cheese produced on alps and alpine pastures in the defined area using untreated, silo-free alpine raw cow’s milk suitable for the production of hard cheese. The individual cheese rounds weigh up to a maximum of 40 kg and are matured for at least 3 months.

4.2.2   Properties

The cheese has a dried, brownish yellow to brown granular rind and a firm to smooth texture. It is ivory-coloured. When sliced, the cheese reveals evenly but sparsely distributed, roughly pea-sized, matt to shiny round holes. Generally the holes are round and pea-sized. Its taste is mild and becomes sharp with increasing age.

Depending on the degree of ripeness, the characteristics described may be more or less pronounced, without affecting or altering the overall image of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’.

‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ can be marketed in portions of different sizes.

Reasons

The words ‘more than 45 % FiDM’ have been deleted without replacement because they are unnecessary in the light of existing legal requirements. The wording, part of which comes from the specification and part of which has been added, has been made more precise in order to clarify and improve the completeness of the product description, thereby providing the inspection body with more precise and reliable product parameters with which to ensure the quality of the product. The minimum maturity period has also been defined more precisely and has thus been clarified.

The market and sales situation, with the trend towards cheeses which have been ripened for longer, requires a greater tolerance in terms of the height of the mould and weight of individual cheese rounds. The weight has therefore been increased to a maximum of 40 kg. This change has no adverse effects or influence on the quality of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’.

2.   Proof of origin

The previous comments relating to the history of the product under point 5(d) (Proof of origin) of the original product specification, which were to be presented in this point at the time of recognition of the designation in question, have now been moved to point 4.6 (Link with the geographical area). In their place, sector-specific provisions on ensuring traceability have been included under point 4.4 (Proof of origin) of the amended specification:

Reasons

Since the specification has hitherto not contained any rules on proof of origin, it is considered appropriate to include information on the traceability of the product in point 4.4 (Proof of origin) of the product specification. This now contains provisions for ensuring traceability. In addition, some text has also been moved from the original point 5(h) (Labelling) to point 4.4. The further transport of the milk used from one approved alpine cheese dairy to another within the defined area is to be permitted in future since, given the current state of technology, this no longer affects quality and ensures the production of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ PDO. This has become necessary owing to the increasing difficulty of finding staff given the enormous intensity of work and the associated uncertainty of maintaining alpine cheese production on our alps. The quantity of milk transported must be documented.

3.   Geographical area

Point 5c of the product specification:

and the additionally submitted map of Austria

have been amended to read as follows:

4.3.   Geographical area

‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ is produced in the province of Vorarlberg at altitudes of between 1 000 m and 1 800 m above sea level. The officially recognised alpine farms are operated only during the summer months in the context of alpine transhumance.’

Elevation map of the demarcated geographical area:

Reasons

The text has been reduced. The requirement in the specification concerning officially recognised alpine farms is set out in point 4.5 (Method of production) (specifically point 4.5.1 (Raw material – milk)). A new map of the demarcated geographical area has also been added. The map now also contains information on the altitude above sea level. This does not alter the demarcation of the geographical area.

4.   Method of production

The original text of point 5(e) (Method of production) of the product specification has been worded more precisely and divided into points 4.5.1 (Raw material – milk), 4.5.2 (Production) and 4.5.3 (Expertise – knowledge of production).

Point 5e of the product specification:

has been amended to read as follows:

4.5.1.   Raw material (milk)

‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ is produced solely from raw alpine cow’s milk during summer grazing on the Alps. Other than in exceptional cases (e.g. disease, snowfall or oestrus), grazing must occur on a daily basis during the summer months. Cattle must not be driven to pastures outside the area of the Sennalpe. Only cow’s milk from officially recognised farms situated on alps or alpine pastures located in the defined geographical area is permitted. Thermised or pasteurised milk or milk sterilised by centrifugation must not be used for the production of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’. The addition of milk from valley farms in any form is prohibited. The milk used for ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ is characterised by the pastures of the defined geographical area, with its fine grasses and herbs. Cows eat the grasses and herbs either fresh as green forage or dried as hay. Feeding with fermented feed or silage is expressly prohibited.

The use of crushed grain as a compensatory and complementary feed from other areas is permitted up to a proportion of 20 % of dry matter annually.

Crushed grain may be bought from other areas since the geographical area, a typical mountain region characterised by grassland and a shallow humus layer, is not well suited to growing crops. This means that almost no cereals or similar crops are grown or produced in the area, so they have to be bought in from other areas.

The percentage of fodder from the geographical area must therefore not be less than 80 % of the total dry matter fed annually to the lactating cows. The addition of crushed grain originating elsewhere is permitted up to a proportion of 20 % of dry matter of the respective ration.

4.5.2.   Production

Only silo-free, non-thermised, unpasteurised raw milk that has not been sterilised by centrifugation may be used. The addition of preservatives, stabilisers, chemically produced additives and genetically modified rennets is not permitted.

The raw milk is first partially skimmed and pre-ripened with a whey and/or lactic acid bacteria culture. Traditional lactic acid bacteria originally isolated and propagated from wild cultures now form the basis of the stock culture for the farm cultures used on the farm. This matured and skimmed milk is then mixed together with the raw milk obtained in the morning, lactic acid bacteria cultures and alpine cheese rennets in alpine (copper) boilers. Curds are removed using cheese cloths or by transferring the curd/whey mixture into cheese moulds. The thickened (coagulated) milk is then cut to the desired size using a curd cutter. The next stage of cheese formation then takes place: the curds develop further and syneresis occurs (whereby the whey separates from the curds). The curds are heated to between 51 °C and to 54 °C and are then transferred to moulds and pressed.

The maximum weight of the cheeses is 40 kg, depending on the size of the cheese round. The cheeses are then placed in a brine bath with a salt content of approximately 20 Bé° so that the cheese absorbs salt, the rind is formed and the cheese’s structure develops, resulting in the cheese being sealed on the outside while ripening thoroughly and evenly on the inside. This leads to the homogeneous, compact consistency of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’. The cheeses are then matured for at least 3 months, depending on the nature of the rind and the milk processor’s experience, at a temperature of between 10 °C and 17 °C and a humidity of more than 80 %. During ripening, the cheeses are regularly treated (brushed or rubbed) with salt water (salt content up to 20 Bé°) up to three times a week to ensure the typical rind formation and develop the taste. After the minimum ripening period, ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ cheese is ready for consumption.

4.5.3.   Know-how – knowledge of production

The quality of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ is due in particular to the experience of local cheesemakers in managing production and cheese ripening. The art of cheesemaking is based on the know-how of the milk processors involved in production in different ways depending on their individual role in the process, whereby the typical quality of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ is achieved. This starts with the use of lactic acid bacteria cultures. For example, determining the composition of the lactic acid bacteria culture, temperature, rest period, quantity and ratio added and storage conditions stems from the milk processor’s experience. One particular feature of their experience is the specific storage and maturation of the raw milk in a manner propitious to the formation of lactic acid bacteria which significantly improve the cheese’s characteristics in terms of shelf life, smell and taste. The use of calf rennet, the timing and manner of cutting the thickened (coagulated) milk and the size of the curds, the development of the cheese and the heating of the curd/whey mixture are the result of the specific experience of the cheesemakers and are of particular importance to the quality of the ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’.

The cheesemaker must monitor each stage of cheese production very closely and identify the right time for each processing stage. For example, the careful heating of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ at 51-54 °C after cutting the coagulated milk is an important prerequisite for the long shelf life of the cheese. At the same time, the milk must be handled carefully to ensure that a large part of the aromatic and microbiological characteristics and components and thus the specific qualities of the milk are retained. In addition, the naturally changing feeding conditions on the alpine pastures mean that the milk does not have any standard characteristics, but rather that its quality (in terms of protein content or other milk composition, for example) fluctuates. Their vast experience allows the makers of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ to amply compensate for these natural fluctuations. Their careful handling of all these stages in the process is crucial to the rest of the maturing process and thus to the quality of the end product. During maturing, particular attention must be paid to careful handling of the cheese. As a result of their experience, the cheesemakers instinctively know when the cheese has to be turned, brushed and rubbed, and they therefore have a significant impact on the quality of the cheese.

Regular meetings of herders and cheesemakers, at which they share the knowledge they have gained, give rise to a constant process of training, helping to maintain the quality and tradition of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’.

Reasons

Changes have been made to the production process with the aim of ensuring the unmistakeable quality of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’, which is based, in particular, on the producers’ knowledge of the traditional production method. Together with the – now amended – wording already contained in the original specification, this traditional production method is described in more detail, in particular by defining the processing method more precisely.

The individual amendments relate to the following points:

—

Raw material – milk Feeding cattle solely by means of grazing is not always sufficient to maintain animal health as increasingly extreme weather events (drought, long periods of rains, etc.) and the associated climate change expose dairy cows in alpine terrain to metabolic stress and reduce the availability of pasture feed. Moreover, the different cow breeds kept on alpine pastures have different energy requirements and therefore need complementary feed for their well-being. As a result, in order to ensure a balanced supply of nutrients necessary for animal welfare, independently of exceptional climatic conditions, such as droughts, it has been made possible to purchase crushed grain and use it as compensatory and complementary feed up to a proportion of 20 % of dry matter annually. The above derogation for feed supplements does not affect the high and constant quality of the milk as most of the coarse fodder must come from the defined area. The requirement in point 5(c) of the product specification concerning officially recognised alpine farms at an altitude of between 1 000 m and 1 800 m has been moved to point 4.5.1 (Raw material – milk) and defined in more detail. The milk may come only from cows from farms situated on alps or alpine pastures which have been issued with an approval number by the competent authority (the Austrian Food Safety Agency). This is justified by the specific hygiene requirements laid down in Regulation (EC) No 853/2004 (the Animal Feed Hygiene Regulation), which holdings producing the cheese are required to comply with. The approved holdings are listed and can be consulted in the Regulation. Further transport from one approved alpine dairy to another within the defined area is to be permitted in future since, given the current state of technology, this no longer affects quality. The quantity of milk transported must be documented by both alpine dairies by means of a delivery note.

—

Production The production of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ is described in its detailed steps, from the processing of raw milk to the maturing stage during storage, citing the technical parameters to be observed in order to ensure quality. The curd can now be heated to between 51 °C and 54 °C (instead of between 51,5 °C and 52,5 °C as before). A broader range of heating temperatures has been permitted because it is not possible, in the case of manual heating, to set a precise temperature, meaning that a wider tolerance is required. The new tolerance range for the heating temperature does not have a negative impact on the quality of the product. The addition of preservatives, stabilisers and chemically produced additives is still not permitted. This has been made even clearer by means of a more precise wording. As regards the farm’s own whey or lactic acid cultures, it has been made clear that the historical mother culture is nowadays produced centrally and is then used internally for further use as a farm culture for the production of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’. The experience of milk processors plays a crucial role in this respect. The salt content has been clarified and adapted to practically verifiable criteria using the Baumé (Bé) scale. The salt content has been specified as being up to 20 °Bé. The formation of the rind typical of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ and the associated quality of the cheese have been further clarified, and reference has been made to the management by the cheesemaker and the ripening climate.

—

Expertise – knowledge of production As the existing specification did not contain any key observations on the traditional knowledge of the producers, it has been made more specific in that regard, and descriptions have been provided of the specialists’ credentials. There is also a description of the ongoing activities aimed at passing on the tradition so as to ensure quality, as a result of which the loss or dilution of expertise can be effectively halted and traditional knowledge of the product maintained.

5.   Link with the geographical area

The information previously included under point 5(d) (Proof of origin) has been moved to point 4.6 (Link with the geographical area).

The information previously included under point 5(f) (Link) has been included under point 4.6 (Link with the geographical area). The effects of climatic and human factors in the geographical area are comprehensively described, whereby a detailed description has been provided of the specific expertise of the regional producers, which previously was only touched on in the specification, such as traditional knowledge of special storage techniques and the high level of expertise regarding production techniques and maturation management, which is crucial in bringing out the cheese’s organoleptic properties.

Reasons

The specification has been adapted to the requirements of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 in that the historical observations, such as documentary evidence and old traditions regarding ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’, which were originally described in the section on proof of origin, have been moved to point 4.6 (Link with the geographical area).

6.   Labelling

The original text of point 5(h) (Labelling) of the product specification has now been moved to point 4.4 (Proof of origin) and adapted to the current documentation requirements.

For example, requirements in the original specification (regarding the affixing on the product of the date of production and the name of the alp and/or alpine pasture) have become unnecessary as a result of the documentation that must now be provided for the purposes of proof of origin. The casein mark to be used has been clarified. The affixing of this mark to the packaging of cheese portions has become unnecessary because batch traceability is guaranteed in the case of portions.

The rules on private labels set out in point 5(h) (Labelling) of the original product specification have been moved to point 4.8 (Labelling).

‘The use of private labels is permitted. The private label must not, however, be such as to mislead the consumer or damage the good reputation of the PDO.’

Reasons

Requirements concerning the management of private labels have been clarified and expanded. Private labels will continue to be allowed.

7.   Editorial amendments

7.1.   The name and details of the competent authority of the Member State have been updated.

7.2.   The address of the applicant group has been corrected.

Reasons

The address of the applicant group has changed since the designation was protected and has been updated together with the amended details of the competent authority.

7.3.   Inspection body

The section containing the contact details of the inspection body has been amended because that body is now a private company, namely Lacon GmbH.

7.4.   Changes to the layout/presentation of the product specification

Renumbering and amendment of some of the titles to make the information clearer and more precise.

7.5.   National requirements

The heading ‘National requirements’ has been deleted without being replaced since these are unnecessary in the light of the regulatory requirements.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’

EU No: PDO-AT-1413-AM01 – 5.4.2022

PDO (X) PGI ()

1.   Name(s) [of PDO or PGI]

‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’

2.   Member State or Third Country

Austria

3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product [listed in Annex XI]

Class 1.3. Cheeses

3.2.   Description of product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Voralberger Alpkäse’ is a hard cheese produced on alps and alpine pastures in the defined area using untreated, silo-free alpine raw cow’s milk suitable for the production of hard cheese. The individual cheese rounds weigh up to a maximum of 40 kg and are matured for at least 3 months.

The cheese has a dried, brownish yellow to brown granular rind and a firm to smooth texture. It is ivory-coloured. When sliced, the cheese reveals evenly but sparsely distributed, roughly pea-sized, matt to shiny round holes. Generally the holes are round and pea-sized. Its taste is mild and becomes sharp with increasing age.

Depending on the degree of ripeness, the characteristics described may be more or less pronounced, without affecting or altering the overall image of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’.

3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

Only milk of cows from officially recognised holdings on alps or alpine pastures with grassland management may be used to produce ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’. The production of and feeding on silage are not permitted.

The use of additional feed in the form of crushed grain is permitted up to a proportion of 20 % of dry matter annually. Crushed grain may also be bought from other areas since the geographical area, a typical mountain region, is not well suited to agricultural production. This means that almost no cereals or similar crops are grown or produced in the area, so they have to be bought in from other areas.

The percentage of fodder from the geographical area must therefore not be less than 80 % of the total dry matter fed annually to the lactating cows. The addition of crushed grain originating elsewhere is permitted up to proportion of 20 % of dry matter of the respective ration.

3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

The raw material must be produced, processed and matured in the defined area.

3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

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3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

The cheeses must be identified with a casein mark bearing a serial number. The applicant association is responsible for administering and allocating the serial number.

4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ is produced in the province of Vorarlberg at altitudes of between 1 000 m and 1 800 m above sea level. The officially recognised alpine farms are operated only during the summer months in the context of alpine transhumance.

5.   Link with the geographical area

The characteristic properties of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ are attributable to the milk used for production, its ingredients and taste and consistency, as influenced by the alpine flora in Vorarlberg, and to the climatic and human (traditional artisanal production) conditions of the production process. The small-scale Alpsenne holdings have maintained artisanal production and careful handling/maturation of the cheeses to the present day. This results in the special quality and long shelf life of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’.

The milk used for the production of ‘Vorarlberg Alpkäse’ reveals a particular flavour component on account of the alpine vegetation of the production area and the use of predominantly green feed for the animals, which, in conjunction with the traditional artisanal production method, gives the cheese its characteristic properties. Cheese production makes an essential contribution to the maintenance of Vorarlberg mountain farming and is essential for the ecological diversity and stability of Vorarlberg’s alpine cultural landscape.

In Vorarlberg, agriculture is focused exclusively on grassland management. Alpine farms are subject to a strict ban on silage feeding (no fermented feed). It is only by banning silage that it is possible to produce high-quality ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’.

‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ is a product that has been produced and consumed in the defined area for many hundreds of years. Cheese has been produced in the present-day province of Vorarlberg for all that time. Originally, and for centuries, cheese was produced primarily for own consumption and regional marketing. Alpine cheese production makes an essential contribution to the maintenance of Vorarlberg alpine farming and is essential for the ecological diversity and stability of Vorarlberg’s alpine cultural landscape. In the course of alpine transhumance between valley farms, alpine pastures and alps, the processing of raw milk on the alps is an important economic component of the maintenance of agricultural and dairy farms in Vorarlberg.

Documents show that the region’s traditional cheese-making methods were already being used during the Thirty Years War. This process forms the basis for today’s production process for ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’. In the 18th century, much of the alpine milk produced in the summer months in the context of alpine transhumance was already being processed into alpine cheese. The designation ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’ has been in use since that time.

Regional conditions, such as altitude, climate, flora and fauna and the small-scale structure of the farms, led in the middle of the 18th century to the development of fat cheese production involving specific cheese-making techniques. This gave rise to a longer shelf life and better added value.

The technical knowledge and skills of cheese production accumulated in the demarcated area (feeding of animals, milk processing, production technology and maturing) were passed on from generation to generation. This knowledge and these skills have been further developed and serve to this day as a basis for the production of ‘Vorarlberger Alpkäse’.

Reference to publication of the product specification

https://www.patentamt.at/herkunftsangaben/vorarlbergeralpkaese/

It can also be accessed directly via the Austrian Patent Office’s website (www.patentamt.at) by navigating to the following: ‘Trademarks / Geographical indications / List of Austrian geographical indications’. The text appears under the name of the quality designation.

---

(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.

Publication of an application for approval of an amendment, which is not minor, to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2023/C 156/08)

This publication confers the right to oppose the amendment application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.

APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF A NON-MINOR AMENDMENT TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION FOR A PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN OR PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION

Application for approval of an amendment in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012

‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’

EU No: PDO-AT-1419-AM01 -5.4.2022

PDO (X) PGI ()

1.   Applicant group and legitimate interest

ARGE Milch Vorarlberg, Montfortstr. 9, 6900 Bregenz, Austria

Tel. +43 5574400350

Fax +43 5574400600

Email: fritz.metzler@lk-vbg.at

The present applicant is the legal successor of the original applicant group with regard to all rights and obligations arising from the protected designation of origin ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’. It represents the interests of the producers of the ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ PDO and therefore has a legitimate interest in requesting amendments to the specification.

2.   Member State or Third Country

Austria

3.   Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)

☐	Name of product

☒	Description of product

☒	Geographical area

☒	Proof of origin

☒	Method of production

☒	Link with the geographical area

☒

Labelling

☒	Other (change to details of competent service, name of original applicant group, inspection body, national requirements, drafting amendments)

4.   Type of amendment(s)

☐	Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI which cannot be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

☒	Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI for which a single document (or equivalent) has not been published and which cannot be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

5.   Amendment(s)

In the light of the experience gained in dealing with the practical aspects of the protected designation since it was established, the amendments to the product specification being sought are necessary with a view to providing a more detailed description of all the important production and marketing conditions, including the various stages of production, and ensuring the quality of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ PDO.

The former product specification, consisting of several separate documents and annexes, has been merged into a single document, revised and updated in order to provide a clearer description of the requirements, in particular regarding the production method and the proof of origin, thus helping to preserve the quality of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ PDO.

More specifically, these amendments concern:

1.   Description of product

The text under point 5(b) (Description) and the additions made to that point of the original product specification have been included under point 4.2 (Description). That point has, in turn, been divided into points 4.2.1 (General) and 4.2.2 (Characteristics). The original text has been made more specific and structured. The FiDM content has been deleted. The weight of the individual cheese rounds has been increased to 7-40 kg (instead of 8-35 kg) and the range of the height of the mould has been extended to 8-12 cm (previously 10-12 cm). The minimum ripening period has been specified as being 3 months.

Point 5b of the product specification:

and the additions to point 5b

have been reworded as follows:

4.2.   Description

4.2.1.   General

‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ is a hard cheese made from silo-free, natural alpine or valley raw cow’s milk. Farms which feed young cattle with silage (mixed farms) are not allowed to supply milk.

The cheese rounds weigh between 7 kg and 40 kg, have a height of 8-12 cm and are matured for at least 3 months.

4.2.2.   Properties

The cheese has a smear-ripened to dried, brownish yellow to brown granular rind and a firm to smooth texture. Its colour is ivory-coloured to pale yellow. When sliced, the cheese reveals evenly but sparsely distributed, roughly pea-sized, matt to shiny round holes. Small cracks (of 0.5-1 cm in length) may form in the cheese. The taste is spicy, becoming sharp with increasing age. Depending on the degree of maturation, the characteristics described may be more or less pronounced, without affecting or altering the overall image of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ PDO.

‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ can be marketed in portions of different sizes.

Reasons

Comments not relating to the description of the product have been set out in more detail in the points ‘Link with the geographical area’ and ‘Production method’, now provided for that purpose.

The tolerance ranges for the weight and height of cheese rounds have been increased as a result of the loss of ripeness caused by the longer storage of the cheese and for reasons of the economic viability of small holdings. For logistical reasons, small holdings require cheeses to be heavier. The words ‘approximately 50 % FiDM’ have been deleted without being replaced because they are superfluous in the light of existing legal requirements. The wording, part of which comes from the specification and part of which has been added, has been made more precise (e.g. regarding the minimum maturation period) in order to clarify and improve the completeness of the product description, thereby providing the inspection body with more precise and reliable product parameters with which to ensure the quality of the product.

2.   Proof of origin

The previous comments in the specification relating to the history of the product under point 5(d) (Proof of origin), which were to be presented in this point at the time of recognition of the designation in question, and the additions made to that point have now been moved to point 4.6. (Link with the geographical area) (see the text of that point). In their place, sector-specific provisions on ensuring traceability have been included under point 4.4 (Proof of origin) of the new specification:

Reasons

Since the specification has hitherto not contained any rules on proof of origin, it is considered appropriate to include information on the traceability of the product in point 4.4 (Proof of origin) of the product specification. It now contains provisions for ensuring traceability. In addition, some text has also been moved from the original point 5(h) (Labelling) to point 4.4 (Proof of origin).

3.   Geographical area

Point 5(c) (Geographical area) of the original product specification

The region of Walgau has been added. The remaining text has been reduced to the information necessary for the geographical area. The spelling ‘Laiblachtal’ has been changed to ‘Leiblachtal’.

Furthermore, the maps of Vorarlberg and Austria additionally submitted in in point 5(c) (Geographical area) of the original specification have been replaced by a new map.

Point 5c of the product specification:

and the maps of Vorarlberg and Austria submitted additionally to point 5c

have been reworded to read as follows:

4.   Method of production

The original text of point 5(e) (Method of production) of the product specification has been worded more precisely and divided into points 4.5.1 (Raw material – milk), 4.5.2 (Production) and 4.5.3 (Expertise – knowledge of production).

The processing method has also been defined more precisely. In addition, the traditional production method has been described in more detail in point 4.5.3 (Expertise – knowledge of production).

Point 5e of the product specification reads as follows:

‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ is a typical traditional product.

An essential component of the production process is compliance with strict milk production criteria (quality guidelines for milk producers).

In particular:

—	only holdings with purely extensive grassland management – without production of or feeding with silage – are authorised to supply milk, or only milk from such farms may be used for the production of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’.

—	The milk is delivered to the cheese dairy at least once a day and is directly processed there (no further transport from one dairy to another).

Actual production:

—	The raw milk supplied (not thermised, pasteurised or sterilised by centrifugation) is partially skimmed (to a fat content of approximately 3,3 %).

—	It is curdled with calf rennet and the farm’s own whey and lactic acid culture (for which the experience of the cheesemaker is crucial to the assessment and cultivation of this culture). As a result of the use of whey cultures, ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ is very different to other similar products.

—	The curd is then heated to approximately 51-52,5 °C and pressed.

—

The cheese rounds are then placed in a brine bath for 2-3 days (salt content approx. 20 %) and then matured in cellars at a temperature of between 12 °C and 15 °C and a relative humidity of between 90 % and 95 %. In so doing, the cheeses are regularly treated with brine to ensure the typical rind formation and develop the taste (i.e. they are brushed or rubbed with salt water (salt content approximately 20 %, pH of 5,25) twice a week).

—	‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ is first ready for consumption at an age of 3 to 6 months (depending on the degree of ripeness, its characteristics may vary somewhat: small cracks in the cheese (0,5-1 cm long), fewer holes, pronounced taste).

The constant self-monitoring and quality assurance of farms ensures the high quality of the raw milk and the production of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’. Compliance with quality assurance is checked by the ‘Qualitätsmanagementverein für Lebensmittel aus Vorarlberg’ [Quality Management Association for Food from Vorarlberg]. Controls on farm and staff hygiene and animal health are required by law.’;

has been reworded to read as follows:

4.5.2.   Production

The raw milk is first partially skimmed and curdled with calf rennet and a whey and/or lactic acid bacteria culture. Traditional lactic acid bacteria from wild cultures now form the basis of the stock culture for farm cultures, which continue to be cultivated on the farm. The addition of preservatives, stabilisers and chemically produced additives is not permitted. The thickened (coagulated) milk is then cut to the desired size using a curd cutter. The next stage of cheese formation then takes place: the curds develop further and syneresis occurs (whereby the whey separates from the curds). The curds are heated to between 51 °C and to 54 °C and are then transferred to moulds and pressed. Depending on the desired cheese size, the rounds weigh between 7 kg and 40 kg before being soaked in brine and are 8 cm to 12 cm in height. The cheeses are then placed in a brine bath with a salt content of at least 20 Bé° for 2 to 3 days so that the cheese absorbs salt, the rind is formed and the cheese’s structure develops, resulting in the cheese being sealed on the outside while ripening thoroughly and evenly on the inside. This leads to the homogeneous, compact consistency of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’. The cheeses are then matured for at least 3 months, depending on the nature of the rind and the milk processor’s experience, at a temperature of between 10 °C and 15 °C and a humidity of more than 80 %. During ripening, the cheeses are regularly treated (brushed or rubbed) with salt water (salt content up to 20 Bé°) at least twice a week to ensure the typical rind formation and develop the taste. After the minimum maturation period, ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ cheese is ready for consumption.

4.5.3.   Know-how – knowledge of production

The quality of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ is due in particular to the experience of local milk processors in managing production and cheese ripening.

The art of cheesemaking is based on the know-how of the milk processors involved in production in different ways depending on their individual role in the process, whereby the typical quality of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ is achieved.

This starts with the use and cultivation of lactic acid bacteria cultures. For example, determining the composition of the lactic acid bacteria culture, temperature, rest periods, quantities and ratio added and storage conditions stems from the milk processor’s experience.

One particular potential impact of their experience is the specific storage and maturation of the milk in a manner propitious to the formation of lactic acid bacteria which significantly improve the cheese’s characteristics in terms of shelf life, smell and taste. The quantity of calf rennet, the timing and manner of cutting the curdled (coagulated) milk and the size of the curds, the subsequent development of the cheese and the heating of the curd/whey mixture result from the cheesemaker’s specific experience, and account for the quality of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’.

The cheesemaker must monitor each stage of cheese production very closely and identify the right time for each processing stage. For example, the careful heating of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ to 51-54 °C after cutting the coagulated milk is an important prerequisite for the long shelf life of the cheese. At the same time, the milk must be handled carefully to ensure that the aromatic and microbiological characteristics and components and thus the specific qualities of the milk are retained. In addition, the naturally changing feeding conditions on the mountain pastures mean that the milk does not have any standard characteristics, but rather that its quality (in terms of protein content or other milk composition, for example) fluctuates. Their vast experience allows the makers of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ to amply compensate for these natural fluctuations.

The cheesemaker’s careful handling of all stages in the process is crucial to the rest of the maturing process and thus the quality of the end product. During maturing, particular attention must also be paid to careful handling of the cheese. As a result of their experience, the cheesemaker instinctively knows when the cheese has to be turned, brushed and rubbed, and therefore has a significant impact on the quality of the cheese.

Regular meetings of managers of milk processors and/or cheesemakers, at which they share the knowledge they have gained, give rise to a constant process of training, helping to maintain the quality and tradition of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’.

Reasons

Changes have been made to the production process with the aim of ensuring the unmistakeable quality of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’, which is based, in particular, on the producers’ knowledge of the traditional production method. Together with the – now amended – wording already contained in the original specification, this traditional production method is described in more detail, in particular by defining the processing method more precisely. The words ‘at a fat content of 3,3 %’ have been deleted without replacement because they are unnecessary in the light of existing legal requirements.

The individual amendments relate to the following points:

—	Raw material – milk

In order to ensure a balanced supply of nutrients necessary for animal welfare, independently of exceptional climatic conditions, such as droughts, it has been made possible to purchase crushed grain and use it as compensatory and complementary feed up to a proportion of 30 % of dry matter annually. Supplementary feed in the form of crushed grain up to a proportion of 30 % is also necessary for the welfare of animals in order to ensure adequate feeding during periods of high milk yield. The above derogation for feed supplements does not affect the high and constant quality of the milk as most of the roughage must come from the demarcated area.

Further transport from one dairy to another within the defined area is to be permitted in future since, given the current state of technology, this no longer affects quality. Moreover, the daily delivery of milk is not a decisive quality parameter given the current state of technology, and for this reason this text has been deleted from the original specification. The transport of milk to another contracting party must also be documented. The Quality guidelines for milk producers contained as an annex to the specification have been deleted, as the method of production is presented in a more detailed and comprehensive manner and the quality assessment in now described under point 4.7 (Control). Moreover, the Quality Management Association for Food from Vorarlberg has been wound up.

—	Production

The production of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ is described in detailed steps, from the processing of the raw milk to the stage of ripening during air-drying. The technical parameters to be observed in order to ensure quality are cited.

The curd can now be heated to between 51 °C and 54 °C (instead of between 51,5 °C and 52,5 °C as before). A broader range of heating temperatures has been permitted because it is not possible, in the case of manual heating, to set a precise temperature, meaning that a wider tolerance is required. The new tolerance range for the heating temperature does not have a negative impact on the quality of the product. The addition of preservatives, stabilisers and chemically produced additives is still not permitted. This has been made even clearer by means of a more precise wording.

As regards the farm’s own whey or lactic acid cultures, it has been made clear that the historical base culture is nowadays produced centrally and is then cultivated internally for further use in the production of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’. The experience of milk processors plays a crucial role in this respect.

The salt content has been clarified and adapted to practically verifiable criteria using degrees Baumé (°Bé) as the unit of measure. The pH of the salt bath originally contained in the specification is not relevant in practice owing to the technical difficulty of monitoring, and has therefore been replaced by degrees Baumé (°Bé) as the unit of measure.

As a result of technological progress, ripening need no longer take place in the cheesemaker’s own ripening cellars, but can also be carried out in external cellars located in the defined geographical area, in which conditions for regulating the parameters relevant to control are also optimal.

Given the different characteristics of ripening cellars and the tendency in the market quality requirements towards longer cheese ripening times, it has been necessary to adjust the temperature range from 12-15 °C to 10-15 °C and the humidity to over 80 %. The special expertise of the cheese cellar manager ensures that the original quality of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ is preserved.

The formation of the rind typical of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ and the associated quality of the cheese have been further clarified, and reference has been made to the management by the cheesemaker and the ripening climate.

—	Expertise – knowledge of production

As the existing specification did not contain any key observations on the traditional knowledge of the producers, the specification has been made more specific in that regard, and descriptions have been provided of the specialists’ credentials. There is also a description of the ongoing activities aimed at passing on the tradition so as to ensure quality, as a result of which the loss or dilution of expertise can be effectively halted and traditional knowledge of the product maintained. The Quality Management Association for Food from Vorarlberg has been wound up. The applicant group is now responsible for ongoing training and all exchange of information. Raw material quality and quality management at the processing plant are regulated by legislation at national and EU level and monitored accordingly.

5.   Link with the geographical area

The information previously included under points 5(d) (Proof of origin) and 5(f) (Link) of the original product specification and the additions made to both points have been summarised in point 4.6 (Link with the geographical area).

Both the production volume and the bibliography regarding the historical development of cheese have been deleted.

Reasons

The specification has been adapted to the requirements of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 in that the historical observations, such as documentary evidence and old traditions regarding ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’, which were originally described in the section on proof of origin, have been moved to point 4.6 (Link with the geographical area).

The effects of climatic and human factors in the geographical area are comprehensively described, whereby a detailed description has been provided of the specific expertise of the regional producers, which previously was only touched on in the specification, such as traditional knowledge of special storage techniques and the high level of expertise regarding production techniques and maturation management, which is crucial in bringing out the cheese’s organoleptic properties.

The loss of production volume is due to the ongoing change in the quantities produced.

The historical development of cheese is now described in detail in point 4.6 (Link with the geographical area). The bibliography regarding the historical development of cheese thus became superfluous and has therefore been deleted, in particular for reasons of better readability.

6.   Labelling

The original text of point 5(h) (Labelling) of the product specification and the additions made to it have now been moved to point 4.4 (Proof of origin) and adapted to the current documentation requirements.

For example, requirements in the original specification (regarding the affixing on the product of the date of production and the holding number) have become unnecessary as a result of the documentation that must be provided for the purposes of proof of origin. The casein mark to be used has been clarified. The affixing of this mark to the packaging of cheese portions has become unnecessary because batch traceability is guaranteed in the case of portions.

The rules on private labels set out in point 5(h) (Labelling) of the original product specification have been moved to point 4.8 (Labelling).

‘The use of private labels is permitted. The private label must not be such as to mislead the consumer or damage the reputation of the PDO.’

Reasons

Requirements concerning the management of private labels have been clarified and expanded. This will continue to be allowed.

7.   Editorial amendments

7.1.   The name and details of the competent authority of the Member State have been updated.

7.2.   The name and address of the applicant group have been updated.

Reasons

ARGE Milch Vorarlberg is the legal successor of the original applicant group with regard to all rights and obligations arising from the protected designation of origin ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’. The information on the competent authority has been updated.

7.3.   Inspection body

The section containing the contact details of the inspection body has been amended because that body is now a private company, namely Lacon GmbH.

7.4.   Changes to the layout/presentation of the product specification

Renumbering and amendment of some of the titles to make the information clearer and more precise.

7.5.   National requirements

The heading ‘National requirements’ has been deleted without being replaced since these are unnecessary in the light of the regulatory requirements.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’

EU No: PDO-AT-1419-AM01 – 5.4.2022

PDO (X) PGI ()

1.   Name(s) [of PDO or PGI]

‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’

2.   Member State or Third Country

Austria

3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product [listed in Annex XI]

Class 1.3. Cheeses

3.2.   Description of product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ is a hard cheese made from silo-free, natural alpine or valley raw cow’s milk. Farms which feed young cattle with silage (mixed farms) are not allowed to supply the milk used. The cheese rounds weigh between 7 kg and 40 kg, have a height of 8-12 cm and are matured for at least 3 months.

The cheese has a smear-ripened to dried, brownish yellow to brown granular rind and a firm to smooth texture. Its colour is ivory-coloured to pale yellow. When sliced, the cheese reveals evenly but sparsely distributed, roughly pea-sized, matt to shiny round holes. Small cracks (0.5-1 cm in length) may form in the cheese. The taste is spicy, becoming sharp with increasing age.

3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

Only milk from farms with grassland management – without production of or feeding with silage – may be used to produce ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’.

The use of crushed grain as a compensatory and complementary feed from other areas is permitted up to a proportion of 30 % of dry matter annually.

Crushed grain may be bought from other areas since the geographical area, a typical mountain region characterised by grassland and a shallow humus layer, is not well suited to growing crops. This means that almost no cereals or similar crops are grown or produced in the area, so they have to be bought in from other areas.

The percentage of fodder from the geographical area must therefore not be less than 70 % of the total dry matter fed annually to the lactating cows. The addition of crushed grain originating elsewhere is permitted up to proportion of 30 % of dry matter of the respective ration.

3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

The raw material must be produced, processed and matured in the defined area.

3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

—

3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

The cheeses must be identified with a casein mark bearing a serial number. The applicant association is responsible for administering and allocating the serial number.

4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ is made from raw milk produced in Vorarlberg in the following regions of the province: Bregenzerwald, Kleinwalsertal, Großwalsertal, Leiblachtal (Pfänderstock), Walgau and Rheintal.

5.   Link with the geographical area

‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’ is a product that has been produced and consumed in what is now the province of Vorarlberg for many hundreds of years. Originally, and for centuries, cheese was produced primarily for own consumption and regional marketing.

Regional conditions, such as altitude, climate, flora and fauna and the small-scale structure of the farms, led in the middle of the 18th century to the development of fat cheese production involving specific cheese-making techniques. This gave rise to a longer shelf life and better added value.

The technical knowledge and skills of cheese production accumulated in the demarcated geographical area (production technology, maturing, feeding of animals and milk processing) were passed on from generation to generation. Around 1890 the establishment of associations gave rise to enhanced knowledge pooling and dissemination. These associations were subsequently replaced by cooperatives, which exist to this day.

Targeted storage and maturation of the milk favoured lactic acid bacteria, which significantly improved the characteristics of the cheese in terms of shelf life, smell and taste. Traditional lactic acid bacteria from wild cultures now form the basis of the stock culture for farm cultures, which continue to be cultivated on the farm. The use of calf rennet, the timing and manner of cutting the coagulated milk and the size of the curds, the development of the cheese and the heating of the curd/whey mixture are the result of the specific experience of the cheesemaker and account for the quality of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’. This knowledge and these skills have been further developed and serve to this day as a basis for the production of ‘Vorarlberger Bergkäse’.

Reference to publication of the product specification

https://www.patentamt.at/herkunftsangaben/vorarlbergerbergkaese/

It can also be accessed directly via the Austrian Patent Office’s website (www.patentamt.at) by navigating to the following: ‘Trademarks / Geographical indications / List of Austrian geographical indications’. The text appears under the name of the quality designation.

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(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.