5.5.2023   

EN

Official Journal of the European Union

C 160/65


Publication of an application for approval of an amendment, which is not minor, to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2023/C 160/09)

This publication confers the right to oppose the amendment application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.

APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF AN AMENDMENT TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION OF PROTECTED DESIGNATIONS OF ORIGIN/PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS WHICH IS NOT MINOR

Application for approval of an amendment in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2), of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012

‘LOS PEDROCHES’

EU No: PDO-ES-0506-AM02 – 29.7.2021

PDO (X) PGI ( )

1.   Applicant group and legitimate interest

Consejo Regulador de la Denominación de Origen Protegida ‘Los Pedroches’ [Regulatory Board for the ‘Los Pedroches’ Protected Designation of Origin]

C/ Pozoblanco No 3, 14440 Villanueva de Córdoba (Córdoba), Spain

Tel. +34 957121084; Fax +34 957121084

Email: informacion@jamondolospedroches.es

The Regulatory Board for the ‘Los Pedroches’ Protected Designation of Origin is a non-profit organisation recognised by the competent authority in the Member State as the managing body for the ‘Los Pedroches’ protected designation of origin by way of the Order of the Regional Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries of Andalusia (2) of 30 January 1998, and governed by its current regulation, adopted by way of the Order of the Regional Ministry of 12 February 2018. It represents the operators involved in the production of the product covered by the PDO, is governed by the principles of democracy and representation of the economic and sectorial interests included in the PDO, and pays particular attention to minorities, representing the various interests equally. The Regulatory Board therefore has the legal capacity to submit this amendment application in accordance with national legislation, specifically Article 13(2)(a) of Government of Andalusia Law 2/2011 of 25 March 2011 on fisheries and food quality.

2.   Member State or Third Country

Spain

3.   Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment

Name of product

Description of product

Geographical area

Proof of origin

Method of production

Link

Labelling

Other [Checks on compliance with the specifications and legislative requirements]

4.   Type of amendment(s)

Amendment to product specification of a registered PDO or PGI not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

Amendment to product specification of registered PDO or PGI for which a Single Document (or equivalent) has not been published not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

5.   Amendment(s)

On 12 January 2014, Royal Decree 4/2014 of 10 January 2014 approving the quality standard for Iberian meat, ham, shoulder and sirloin (hereinafter the ‘Quality Standard’ or ‘Iberian Quality Standard’) entered into force in Spain, repealing and replacing the previous Royal Decree 1469/2007 of 2 November 2007 of the same title. This Quality Standard provides for standardisation in the sector, with mandatory requirements for Iberian pig products that opt to use the indications regulated therein, as is the case for hams and shoulders covered by the ‘Los Pedroches’ PDO.

We are therefore requesting a series of amendments to the specification for the PDO, concerning the sections ‘Description of product’, ‘Geographical area’, ‘Proof of origin’, ‘Method of production’, ‘Link’ and ‘Labelling’, with the sole aim of bringing it into line with the current requirements of the Iberian Quality Standard as regards the conditions for managing the pigs, the breed factor and the sales descriptions of the products, and with a view to providing operators with a comprehensive document. Furthermore, all references to Royal Decree 1469/2007 of 2 November 2007 have been replaced by references to Royal Decree 4/2014 of 10 January 2014.

Despite these amendments, the conditions laid down in the original PDO specification that are more restrictive than those laid down in the Quality Standard have been maintained, specifically those regarding the management of the pigs (principally their diet and exercise) and the minimum percentage of Iberian purity, which give the raw material the essential characteristics necessary for the production of unique and distinct products such as ‘Los Pedroches’ PDO hams and shoulders.

Other amendments that are not the result of changes to the Iberian Quality Standard have been requested at the initiative of the Regulatory Board, and relate mainly to the production process. The justification for these amendments is given throughout this document.

5.1.   Description of product

1.

The original specification provided for the possibility of using pigs that are a minimum of 75 % Iberian breed (according to the legal classification established by Royal Decree 1469/2007 of 2 November 2007, now repealed) in the production of hams and shoulders covered by the PDO. Despite the fact that the current Iberian Quality Standard (adopted by Royal Decree 4/2014 of 10 January 2014) still allows pigs that are 75 % Iberian breed to be used to produce hams and shoulders marketed as ‘Iberian’, the specification limits the cuts for certification under the PDO to those from pigs with 100 % Iberian genetic purity. The option to use pigs that have been cross-bred with other, non-native breeds has therefore been removed.

Accordingly, the following description from the original specification (Section B.2, ‘Eligible breeds’):

‘The only kind of pig suitable for providing cuts for the manufacture of hams and shoulders protected by the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin is the Iberian breed of pig, of all strains, which is at least 75 % Iberian pig and at most 25 % Duroc or Duroc Jersey, as required by Royal Decree No 1469/2007 of 2 November 2007 adopting the quality standard for Iberian meat, ham, shoulder ham and sirloin, or the law that replaces it [...]’

has been replaced by the following description in the new specification:

‘The only pigs suitable for providing cuts for the manufacture of hams and shoulders under the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin are pigs of 100 % Iberian breed in accordance with Royal Decree 4/2014 of 10 January 2014 adopting the quality standard for Iberian meat, ham, shoulder ham and sirloin, [...]’

In the single document the following paragraph in Section 4.2, ‘Description’, has been deleted (old format or summary sheet):

‘The type of livestock suitable for supplying cuts for the manufacture of hams and shoulders protected by the designation of origin is the Iberian breed of pig, of all strains. Pigs that are at least 75 % Iberian and at most 25 % Duroc or Duroc Jersey are allowed, provided they come from pure Iberian sows as specified in Royal Decree 1469/2007 of 2 November 2007.’

Reason:

This change, which is justified by the possibility of laying down stricter requirements in the specification than those laid down by general legislation, is intended to limit the production covered by the PDO to products of the highest commercial quality within the sector. The Iberian pig (which is native to the Iberian Peninsula) is a rural breed, perfectly adapted to the climate and life on the dehesa [wooded pastureland specific to central and southern Spain consisting of grassland featuring herbaceous species, used for grazing cattle, goats, and sheep, and tree species belonging to the genus Quercus (oak), such as the holm oak (Quercus ilex sp. ballota)], which produces meat with high fat marbling and an intense aroma and taste. Consumers, who recognise the singular nature of ‘Iberian’ hams and shoulders, are increasingly aware of the different commercial classifications that exist based on the pigs’ genetic purity and on their diet, with preference being given to products from 100 % Iberian pigs. Furthermore, this amendment will help preserve the purity of the Iberian breed.

2.

As regards pigs suitable for supplying cuts for the production of hams and shoulders covered by the PDO, the following requirement in the original specification (Section B.2, ‘Eligible breeds’):

‘and has spent every stage of its life in the geographical area defined and delimited in this document, from birth to final fattening’

has been replaced by the following requirement:

‘and has undergone all stages of production in the geographical area defined and delimited in this document.’

Consequently, in the product specification, the following paragraph (Section D.1, ‘Source, marking and inspection of the animals’):

‘The whole life of the pigs, from birth to final fattening, has taken place and is completed in holdings recorded in the registers of the Regulatory Board for the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin, and therefore in the sphere of production of this protected designation of origin.’

has been replaced by:

‘Every production stage that the pigs undergo has taken place and is completed in holdings recorded in the registers of the Regulatory Board for the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin, and therefore in the sphere of production of this protected designation of origin.’

Finally, this amendment also affects the following sections of the summary sheet: 4.2, ‘Description’ (which required that each animal ‘has spent every stage of its life in the geographical area defined and delimited in this document, from birth to final fattening’), 4.3, ‘Geographical area’ (according to which ‘the pigs [...] are born, reared and fattened’ in the defined area) and 4.4, ‘Proof of origin’ (which required that ‘every stage of life of the pigs, from birth and rearing to final fattening, takes place in the defined territory’). In place of this, Section 3.4, ‘Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area’, of the new single document specifies that the steps are as follows:

‘All stages of production take place within the geographical area. These are as follows:

Rearing and fattening the pigs, the legs of which are used to make the product covered.

Slaughtering the animal and cutting up the meat.

All preparation stages, which include: salting, washing, resting, drying/maturing and ageing in storehouses.’

Reason:

The original wording of the specification required not only that all stages of the production of the hams and shoulders take place in the defined geographical area, but also that the pigs providing the raw materials for the product (the carcasses, in particular the forelegs and hind legs) be born in the defined geographical area. This stage was not included in the initial drafting of the Order of the Regional Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries of 30 January 1998 approving the Regulation governing the ‘Los Pedroches’ designation of origin and its Regulatory Board, published in the Official Gazette of the Government of Andalusia on 21 February 1998, Article 5 of which provides as follows:

‘The production area in which the pigs whose legs are subsequently used to produce hams and shoulders covered by the “Los Pedroches” designation of origin are reared and fattened consists of the dehesas populated with holm oaks, cork oaks and gall oaks [...]’

The requested amendment refers to the production stages (instead of the livestock’s life stages), limiting the performance of these stages to the defined geographical area and removing the restriction on the pigs’ place of birth, which was not technically justified.

Specifically, as explained in the section of the specification entitled ‘Geographical area’ or the section of the single document entitled ‘Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area’, the production steps that must take place in the geographical area are the rearing and final fattening of the pigs, plus all production stages.

In this case, the birth of the piglets is a stage in the life of the animal (as reflected in the original specification), but not a production stage of hams and shoulders covered by the PDO. This is also supported by the fact that these piglets may be used for purposes other than being slaughtered for products covered by the PDO (consumption as fried suckling pig, for example), as well as the fact that the genetic requirement they have to meet (100 % Iberian breed in the case of the PDO) is not affected by their place of birth.

Furthermore, as explained in the specific section on the link, it is the way the pigs are managed, in particular the pannage fattening process after weaning (highlighting the impact that dehesa pastures have on the pigs’ diet), which is important in achieving the final product and gives it its characteristics. However, the pigs’ place of birth is not relevant in achieving the product, nor does it affect the quality of the product.

In addition, a technical study (‘Report on the irrelevance of the place of birth and of the rearing system on the final quality of the pigs covered by the “Los Pedroches’ PDO” by Dr Vicente Rodríguez Estévez, DVM, PhD, Department of Animal Production of the University of Córdoba), supported by existing literature, concluded inter alia that the requirement for the pigs to be born in the defined geographical area “has no technical basis in relation to the final product’s quality characteristics, as it does not affect them; instead they crucially depend on the food consumed by the pig during the last 2 or 3 months of life, i.e. the pastures and acorns influenced by the physical environment of Los Pedroches and neighbouring areas.”

The removal of the requirement that the pigs be born exclusively within the boundaries of the geographical area is also justified by the need to preserve the biological and environmental value of the dehesa. Rearing Iberian pigs in their early stage of life outside traditional dehesa holdings has the advantage that it avoids the negative environmental impact that breeders, traditionally confined to small areas of the dehesa, otherwise have on this location without bringing any advantages or resulting in a higher quality or more distinct animal. It should also be borne in mind that piglet production has become significantly more intensive and professional, resulting in overstocking of livestock which, among other detrimental effects on the dehesa, generates excess slurry or excrement, threatening the dehesa’s soil and trees.

Finally, the removal of this requirement will help to reduce the problem of inbreeding among the pigs used to obtain the protected product, which is the result of small-scale production of piglets on traditional holdings with a reduced herd of breeders, and which may have a negative impact on the efficiency of the production process and even on the quality of the final product. Its main effects include lower birth and growth rates, as well as the emergence of deformities, resulting in lower ovulation in sows and higher prenatal mortality rates, thus increasing the risk of the species’ extinction.

3.

The current Iberian Quality Standard has dropped the ‘Recebo’ grade of hams and shoulders, and the specification and single document have therefore been amended accordingly.

Therefore, the following grade of cut covered by the specification has been removed (Section B.3, ‘Grades of cuts’):

‘—

“Recebo” Iberian hams and shoulders: from pigs which, after a period of pannage on dehesas in our region and fed exclusively on acorn and grass, have gained a minimum additional weight of 29 kg and for which it is necessary, while maintaining the same grazing system, to supplement the diet with a daily ration of cereal and legume-based feed checked and authorised by the Regulatory Board, whose fatty acid values for subcutaneous fat according to gas chromatography are within the parameters for “Recebo”. These parameters are decided by the Regulatory Board for the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin for each marketing year. In order to ensure a sufficient supply of acorns, the stock density for pigs under the “Recebo” category of the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin must not exceed 2 Iberian pigs per hectare, although this density may be reduced following the acorn capacity calculation carried out by assessors of this Regulatory Board’s Inspection Body. These cuts are identified with a red seal and the “Recebo” label of the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin.’

In the single document the following paragraph has been deleted (Section 4.2, ‘Description’ – old format):

‘—

“Recebo” Iberian hams and shoulders: from pigs which, after a period of pannage on dehesas in our region and fed exclusively on acorn and grass, have gained a minimum additional weight of 8.75 kg and for which it is necessary, while maintaining the same grazing system, to supplement the diet with a daily ration of cereal and legume-based feed checked and authorised by the Regulatory Board, whose fatty acid values for subcutaneous fat according to gas chromatography are within the parameters for “Recebo”. In order to ensure a sufficient supply of acorns, the stock density for pigs under the “Recebo” category of the “Los Pedroches” designation of origin must not exceed 2 Iberian pigs per hectare.’

4.

The definitions of the categories ‘de Bellota’ and ‘Cebo de Campo’ have been amended to ‘Bellota 100 % Ibérico’ and ‘Cebo de Campo 100 % Ibérico’.

Accordingly, the following paragraphs of the specification (Section B.3, ‘Grades of cuts’):

‘The hams and shoulders are classified as follows according to their feed, in accordance with Royal Decree No 1469/2007 of 2 November 2007:

“Bellota” Iberian hams and shoulders: from pigs fattened in the final stage under the pannage grazing system on dehesas in our region and fed exclusively on acorns and grass, whose fatty acid values for subcutaneous fat according to gas chromatography are within the parameters for “Bellota”. These parameters are decided by the Regulatory Board for the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin for each marketing year. ... These cuts are identified with a black seal and the “Bellota” label of the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin. [...]

“Cebo de Campo” Iberian hams and shoulders: from pigs which have been fattened in the final stage by grazing on dehesas in our region, principally on natural resources from the dehesa, such as grass, pastureland or stubble depending on the season, supplemented if necessary by a daily ration of [...] feed [...] These cuts are identified with a yellow seal and the “Cebo de Campo” label of the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin.’

have been replaced by:

‘The hams and shoulders are classified as follows according to their breed and feed, in accordance with Royal Decree No 4/2014 of 10 January 2014:

“Bellota 100 % Ibérico” hams and shoulders: from 100 % genetically pure pigs of the Iberian breed in compliance with Royal Decree No 4/2014 of 10 January 2014 and fattened in the final stage under the pannage grazing system on dehesas in our region and fed exclusively on acorns and grass. [...] These cuts are identified with a black seal and the “Bellota 100 % Ibérico” label of the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin.

“Cebo de Campo 100 % Ibérico” hams and shoulders: from 100 % genetically pure Iberian pigs under Royal Decree No 4/2014 of 10 January 2014 which have been fattened by grazing on the dehesas in our region, principally on natural resources from the dehesa, such as grass, pastureland or stubble depending on the season, supplemented if necessary by a daily ration of [...] feed [...] These cuts are identified with a green seal and a “Cebo de Campo 100 % Ibérico” label of the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin.’

In the single document, the following paragraphs (Section 4.2, ‘Description’ – old format):

‘The cuts are those from the various kinds of pig, classified according to their breed and the type of feed they have been given during their final fattening stage, in accordance with Royal Decree 1469/2007 of 2 November 2007. They are divided into three grades:

“Bellota” Iberian hams and shoulders: from pigs fattened in the final stage under the pannage grazing system on the dehesa and fed exclusively on acorns and grass, whose fatty acid values for subcutaneous fat according to gas chromatography are within the parameters for “Bellota”. In order to ensure a sufficient supply of acorns, the stock density for pigs under the “Bellota” category of the “Los Pedroches” designation of origin must not exceed 1 Iberian pig per hectare.

[...]

“Cebo de Campo” hams and shoulders: from pigs which have been fattened by grazing on the dehesas in our region, principally on natural resources from the grassland, such as grass, pastureland or stubble depending on the season, supplemented if necessary by a daily ration of cereal and legume-based feed checked and authorised by the Regulatory Board. In order to ensure a sufficient supply of natural resources on the dehesa, the stock density for pigs under the “Cebo de Campo” category of the “Los Pedroches” designation of origin must not exceed 12 Iberian pigs per hectare.’

are replaced by the following (Section 3.2, ‘Description of the product’ – current format):

‘The various cuts are classified according to the breed and the type of feed the pigs have been given during their final fattening stage, as follows:

“Bellota 100 % Ibérico” hams and shoulders: from 100 % Iberian pigs fattened in the final stage under the pannage grazing system on the dehesa and fed exclusively on acorns and grass.

“Cebo de Campo 100 % Ibérico” hams and shoulders: from 100 % Iberian pigs which have been fattened by grazing on the dehesas in our region, principally on natural resources from the dehesa and supplemented if necessary by a daily ration of feed.’

Reason:

Alongside the feed factor, the Iberian Quality Standard has introduced the breed factor when classifying the products, with the obligation to identify the percentage of Iberian breed in the pigs used to produce the products. Since the product specification for the PDO is limited to 100 % Iberian products, the categories ‘de Bellota’ and ‘Cebo de Campo’ have had to be redefined as ‘Bellota 100 % Ibérico’ and ‘Cebo de Campo 100 % Ibérico’.

5.

The option has been added to reduce the maximum stock density for pigs per hectare in accordance with the parameters laid down in the Quality Standard for the ‘de Bellota’ category.

Accordingly, the following paragraph of the specification (Section B.3, ‘Grades of cuts’):

‘In order to ensure a sufficient supply of acorns, the stock density for pigs under the “de Bellota” category of the “Los Pedroches” designation of origin must not exceed 1 Iberian pig per hectare, although this density may be reduced following the acorn capacity calculation carried out by assessors of the Inspection Body of this Regulatory Board.’

has been replaced by:

‘In order to ensure a sufficient supply of acorns, the stock density for pigs under this category of the “Los Pedroches” designation of origin must not exceed 1 Iberian pig per hectare, although this density may be reduced according to the provisions of the Annex to Royal Decree 4/2014 of 10 January 2014, concerning the maximum allowable stock density determined by the forest cover on the “SIGPAC” (Geographical Information System for Agricultural Parcels) LPIS enclosure – see Section E.1 of this document – or by the acorn capacity calculation carried out each year by assessors of the Inspection Body of this Regulatory Board.’

This amendment also affects Section 4.2, ‘Description’, of the old single document, which similarly stated that ‘the stock density for pigs under the “Bellota” category of the “Los Pedroches” designation of origin must not exceed 1 Iberian pig per hectare’.

Reason:

With regard to the requirements laid down for the ‘de Bellota’ category, the original specification provided for the option to reduce the stipulated maximum stock density of 1 pig per hectare based on the acorn capacity calculation carried out by assessors of the Inspection Body. This density inspection responds to the need to ensure that the pigs are fed using the acorns and to improve their contribution to the dehesa ecosystem.

In order to bring the specification into line with the Iberian Quality Standard, the option has been added to reduce the maximum stock density of pigs per hectare in accordance with the parameters set out in the Annex to the Quality Standard entitled ‘Maximum allowable stock density determined by the forest cover on the SIGPAC (Geographical Information System for Agricultural Parcels) LPIS enclosure’. SIGPAC is a Spanish government application (Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food) which makes it possible to geographically identify the parcels (in this case, located in the area defined in the PDO specification) that are used by livestock, as well as their aerial surface area covered by trees belonging to the genus Quercus sp. which produce acorns.

6.

The minimum weight laid down in the Quality Standard for 100 % Iberian hams and shoulders has been introduced, both in the specification (Section B.4 ‘Physical and organoleptic characteristics’) and in the single document (Section 3.2, ‘Description of product’ – current format):

‘Minimum weight of 5,75 kg for hams and 3,7 kg for shoulders.’

Reason:

The Iberian Quality Standard regulates the minimum weight of hams and shoulders to be marketed under the designation ‘Ibérico’. This description (which corresponds to the minimum weight laid down by the Quality Standard for 100 % Iberian hams and shoulders) has therefore been included among the physical characteristics of the product.

7.

The option has been added to leave the hoof on the hams and shoulders when sold whole. The following paragraph of the specification (Section B.4, ‘Physical and organoleptic characteristics’) and of the single document (Section 3.2, ‘Description of product’ – current format) has therefore been amended:

‘External appearance: long, slender shape with the typical “ corte serrano ” V-cut. The hoof is kept on to aid identification.’

by means of the following clarification:

‘External appearance: long, slender shape with the typical “ corte serrano ” V-cut. When they are sold whole, the hoof is kept on to aid identification.’

Reason:

The original specification, as part of the physical characteristics of the product, required the hoof to be kept in order to facilitate its identification.

Keeping the hoof on Iberian hams and shoulders is effectively a distinguishing sign, but it only makes sense to do so when the cuts are marketed whole, which is how the majority are traditionally put on the market. However, the original specification also provided for the option to sell the products in de-boned, portioned or sliced form (forms which are also maintained in the new specification), in which case it is not possible to keep the hoof as part of its external appearance.

5.2.   Geographical area

1.

The following sentence in the product specification (Section C, ‘Geographical area’):

‘Every stage of the life of the pigs, from birth and rearing to final fattening, takes place in this territory and is inspected by the Regulatory Board. Similarly, all the stages of production of the Iberian hams and shoulders, from slaughter and quartering of Iberian pigs to their subsequent curing and maturing, take place here.’

has been replaced by:

‘Every production stage that the pigs undergo – rearing and final fattening – takes place in this territory and is inspected by the Inspection Body. Similarly, all the stages of production of the Iberian hams and shoulders, from slaughter and quartering of Iberian pigs to their subsequent curing and maturing, take place here.’

In the single document (Section 4.3, ‘Geographical area’), the following sentence:

‘The area in which the pigs whose cuts are used in the preparation of hams and shoulders covered by the “Los Pedroches” designation of origin are born, reared and fattened and the entire production, slaughtering and butchering of the Iberian pigs and the salting, curing, drying and maturing of the cuts takes place consists of [...]’

has been replaced as follows:

‘The area in which the pigs whose cuts are used in the preparation of hams and shoulders covered by the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin are reared and fattened and the entire production, slaughtering and butchering of the Iberian pigs and the salting, curing, drying and maturing of the cuts takes place consists of [...]’

Reason:

This amendment is justified by the reasons already set out in amendment No 2 to the ‘Description of the product’.

Furthermore, the original specification erroneously stated the various stages are ‘inspected by the Regulatory Board’, whereas in actual fact this task is carried out by the Inspection Body. This error has been corrected in the proposed new wording.

5.3.   Proof of origin

1.

As a result of removing the ‘Recebo’ category of hams and shoulders in accordance with the Iberian Quality Standard (see again amendment No 3 to the ‘Description of the product’), the following paragraph of the specification (Section D.2, ‘Identification, marking and inspection of the cuts’):

‘e)

These hams and shoulders must be identified by a seal, numbered sequentially for each marketing year and for each of the three categories of feed defined above in this specification.’

has been replaced by the following:

‘e)

These hams and shoulders must be identified by a seal, numbered sequentially for each marketing year and for each of the two categories of feed defined above in this specification.’

Similarly, the following paragraph of the specification (Section D.6, ‘Origin of the pigs’ feed’):

‘With regard to this final fattening stage, three categories can be distinguished. In each of them, the distinctiveness in the quality of the products is determined by the natural substances on which the pigs freely graze on the dehesa in each season.’

has been replaced by the following (Section D.5, ‘Origin of the pigs’ feed’):

‘With regard to this final fattening stage, the following categories can be distinguished. In each of them, the distinctiveness in the quality of the products is determined by the natural substances on which the pigs freely graze on the dehesa in each season.’

In the same section, the following paragraph has been deleted from the specification:

‘ “Recebo”: During the final fattening, there is a stage where the diet is exclusively acorn and grass, in which the pigs gain a minimum additional weight of 29 kg, and a further stage in which the pigs follow a system of grazing on the dehesas of the holdings registered under this protected designation of origin on a diet of grass and other natural substances, supplemented as necessary with feed authorised and monitored by the Regulatory Board. The proportion of the feed originating in the geographical area defined and delimited in this document is at least 85 %.’

2.

The analytical testing of fatty acids using gas chromatography technology has been removed.

The following paragraph of the specification has been deleted (Section D.3, ‘Analytical tests’):

‘D.3.

Analytical tests.

In addition to the necessary on-the-spot checks, gas chromatography analysis of fatty acids is carried out on fat obtained from the rump of Iberian pigs at the time of slaughter, as set out in Order PRE/3844/2004 of 18 November 2014 establishing the official methods for the taking of samples from the carcasses of Iberian pigs and the method of analysis for determining the composition of fatty acids of the total lipids of the subcutaneous adipose tissue of Iberian pigs, in order to verify that the analytical parameters are within those established for each type of feed.

As a consequence, the subsections that follow it have been renumbered (“D.3”, “D.4”, etc.).’

Reason:

The characteristics of the fat of Iberian pigs depend on the type of feed received in their final fattening stage. The analysis that has been used recently to distinguish the qualities of feed has been analysis of the fatty acid profiles of the fat using gas chromatography techniques.

Results of recent studies in this sector have shown that determining the fatty acid profile using gas chromatography is not a reliable scientific method for classifying livestock by the different types of feed that Iberian pigs might receive. It has been found that this method of analysing the fatty acid profile gives rise to a large number of ‘false positives’ (pigs classified as ‘Bellota’ that have been fattened with feed) and ‘false negatives’ (pigs not classified as ‘Bellota’ that have been fattened through pannage). This confirms the great variability in factors aside from their feed in the final fattening stage that influence the final lipid profile of the pigs, such as the composition of the feed in the preparatory feeding stage before final fattening or the varying quantity and quality of the acorns across different pannage seasons.

In addition, in recent years animal feed companies have developed feeds for Iberian pigs that are enriched in mono-unsaturated fatty acids, principally oleic acid (up to 70 per cent of the total fatty acids). These give a fatty acid profile in pigs fattened exclusively with feed that is similar to that provided by pannage. However, the former have not been given this traditional form of feeding, and the final products obtained are clearly different in quality and classification.

The above has led the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food to remove this analysis from the Iberian Quality Standard.

3.

The following paragraph of the original specification (Section D.5, ‘Identification, marking and inspection of the production in portions’):

‘The registered processing plants must apply to the Regulatory Board to de-bone, portion or slice hams or shoulders that have obtained certification under the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin, 24 hours in advance.’

has been amended as follows (Section D.4, ‘Identification, marking and inspection of the production in portions’):

‘Registered operators must apply to the Regulatory Board to de-bone, portion or slice hams or shoulders that have obtained certification under the “Los Pedroches” protected designation of origin before starting the operation.’

Reason:

This change is due only to matters of organisation relating to operators and the Regulatory Board (‘operators’ in the new wording is synonymous with ‘processing plants’). It is sufficient for operators to communicate with and apply to the Regulatory Board regarding these operations (de-boning, portioning and/or slicing) prior to their execution, without having to adhere to the requirement that these applications are submitted 24 hours in advance, i.e. they may carry out operations even if done with shorter notice.

4.

In the section on the feed given to the pigs used to produce products with the designation ‘Cebo de Campo’ (Section D.5, ‘Origin of the pigs’ feed’, of the new product specification and Section D.6 of the same name in the old product specification), while maintaining the requirement that ‘the proportion of the feed originating in the geographical area defined and delimited in this document is at least 65 %’, the following paragraph of the specification:

‘In any case, the feed on which the pigs covered by this protected designation of origin are fed is produced entirely within the geographical area defined in this document.’

has been replaced by the following:

‘The feed on which the pigs covered by this protected designation of origin are fed is essentially produced within the geographical area defined in this document. The feed is made up of a mixture of mainly cereals (wheat, barley and maize) and to a lesser extent legumes (peas and soya beans). A significant proportion of the ingredients comes from traditional production within the geographical area, but a minor proportion of the ingredients, such as soya, does not. This means that it is not technically possible for the feed to come entirely from the defined geographical area; it has therefore been permitted to add feed sourced from outside the area.

In any case, the traditional grazing system required by the system of rearing and fattening itself, and the fact that only a small amount of the feed may be produced outside the territory, ensures that the percentage of total ingested dry matter which originated inside the geographical area – in the case of “Cebo de Campo” pigs (whose food is supplemented by feed) – is significantly above the minimum allowed by the applicable legislation (Article 1(1) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) No 664/2014 of 18 December 2013).’

In addition, the following content has been added to the single document in Section 3.3, ‘Feed and raw materials’:

‘Raw materials

Pork legs from:

“Bellota” pigs: final feeding diet based exclusively on acorns and grass on the dehesas of the defined geographical area. Thus, the feed is fully sourced in the defined geographical area described in this document.

“Cebo de Campo” pigs: in their final fattening stage the pigs are reared by grazing on the dehesas of the defined geographical area and fed principally on natural products such as acorn remains, grass or cereal stubble depending on the season. This is supplemented with feed where necessary. The proportion of the feed originating in the geographical area described in this document is at least 65 %.

Feed

The feed used to supplement the food of the “Cebo de Campo” pigs is made up of a mixture of mainly cereals (wheat, barley and maize) and to a lesser extent legumes (peas and soya beans). A significant proportion of the ingredients comes from traditional production within the geographical area, but a minor proportion of the ingredients, such as soya, does not. This means that it is not technically possible for the feed to come entirely from the defined geographical area; it has therefore been permitted to add feed sourced from outside the area.

In any case, the traditional grazing system required by the system of rearing and fattening itself, and the fact that only a small amount of the feed may be produced outside the territory, ensures that the percentage of total ingested dry matter which originated inside the geographical area – in the case of “Cebo de Campo” pigs (whose food is supplemented by feed) – is significantly above the minimum allowed by the applicable legislation (Article 1(1) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) No 664/2014 of 18 December 2013).’

Reason:

As explained in the new text itself, it is not technically possible for 100 % of the feed used to come from the defined geographical area as some of its minor components, such as soya, are not produced locally. In any case, the supporting circumstances provided for in the second subparagraph of Article 1(1) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) No 664/2014 of 18 December 2013 are fulfilled: (i) neither the quality of the product nor its specific characteristics stemming from the geographical environment are affected, as these are due to the part of the pigs’ diet based on the dehesa’s grazing resources, and (ii) the quantity of feed from outside the defined geographical area in no case exceeds 50 % of dry matter on an annual basis.

5.

The redundancy in relation to the percentage of feed from the defined geographical area has been removed from the text. In the same section (Section D.6, ‘Origin of the pigs’ feed’, in the old product specification), the paragraph:

‘Until they arrive at this final fattening stage, the Iberian pigs are fed by grazing on the dehesas of the holdings registered in this protected designation of origin, with natural substances from the dehesa such as grass, pasture or cereal stubble depending on the season. This is supplemented with very small rations of feed authorised and monitored by the Regulatory Board. The aim of this stage is to develop a pig of advanced age and very low weight, with a high bone mass and very low levels of fat, so that it will subsequently fatten in the final stage, which is the one that determines the quality of the cuts. The proportion of the feed throughout this stage originating in the geographical area defined and delimited in this document is at least 65 %.’

has been replaced by the following paragraph (Section D.5, ‘Origin of the pigs’ feed’, of the new product specification):

‘Until they arrive at this final fattening stage, the Iberian pigs are fed by grazing on the dehesas of the holdings registered in this protected designation of origin, with natural substances from the dehesa such as grass, pasture or cereal stubble depending on the season. This is supplemented with very small rations of feed authorised and monitored by the Regulatory Board. The aim of this stage is to develop a pig of advanced age and very low weight, with a high bone mass and very low levels of fat, so that it will subsequently fatten in the final stage, which is the one that determines the quality of the cuts.

This amendment also affects Section 3.3, “Feed and raw materials”, of the single document, which states, in the case of “Cebo de Campo” pigs, “the proportion of the feed originating in the geographical area defined and delimited in this document is at least 65 %”.’

Reason:

The last sentence has been deleted: The proportion of the feed throughout this stage originating in the geographical area defined and delimited in this document is at least 65 %. The reason for this is that it is redundant, since that requirement already appears in the immediately preceding paragraph on the ‘Cebo de Campo’ category. This minimum percentage of feed originating in the geographical area applies only to that category, as for the ‘Bellota’ category, 100 % of the feed during this phase must come from the defined geographical area.

6.

In the single document, the section ‘Proof of origin’ has been removed entirely in order to align with the new format provided for in Annex VI to Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) No 668/2014 of 13 June 2014.

5.4.   Method of production

1.

In the specification, in Section E.1, ‘Farming practices and types of pig’, under subheading (a), ‘Cerdo de Bellota’, the following paragraphs:

‘Weight at the start of the pannage period: between 92 kg and 115 kg (between 8 and 10 Spanish arrobas).

[...]

Final date for slaughter: 31 March, exceptionally 15 April.

[...]

Maximum stock density: 1 Iberian pig per hectare of dehesa.’

have been amended to read as follows:

‘Weight of batch at the start of the pannage period: between 92 kg and 115 kg (between 8 and 10 Spanish arrobas).

[...]

The pannage period for the pigs must begin between 1 October and 15 December, with slaughter dates set between 15 December and 31 March.

[...]

The maximum allowable stock density must be set as follows in accordance with Royal Decree 4/2014 of 10 January 2014, provided that it does not exceed the maximum stock density of 1 Iberian pig per hectare of dehesa:

Covered woodland area in the LPIS plots making up the holding

(Percentage)

Maximum allowable stock density on the holding

(Pigs per ha)

Up to 10

0,25

Up to 15

0,42

Up to 20

0,58

Up to 25

0,75

Up to 30

0,92

Up to 35

1

More than 35

1 ’

The following paragraph has also been added:

‘The enclosures and plots used for this kind of feeding are defined in Royal Decree 4/2014 of 10 January 2014 (i.e. they must be identified in the pannage layer in the “SIGPAC” LPIS system), provided that they are within the territory defined in this specification.’

Reason:

These changes have been made solely for the purpose of bringing the PDO specification into line with the new Iberian Quality Standard, which lays down requirements regarding the maximum allowable stock density for pigs used to make products with the ‘de Bellota’ designation and also regulates the date for the start of pannage and the slaughter date.

2.

As a result of the removal of the ‘Recebo’ category of hams and shoulders from the Iberian Quality Standard, the following paragraph has been deleted from the specification (Section E.1, ‘Farming practices and types of pig’):

‘ “Recebo” pigs have the following characteristics:

Minimum age at slaughter: 14 months.

Weight at the start of the pannage period: between 92 kg and 115 kg (between 8 and 10 Spanish arrobas).

After gaining a minimum of 29 kg (2,5 arrobas) exclusively from acorns and grass, final fattening will be done exclusively with pasture, natural substances and feed authorised and monitored by the Regulatory Board, which must be mainly cereals and legumes.

The last date for slaughter is 15 May.

Maximum stock density: 2 Iberian pigs per hectare of dehesa.’

The word ‘Recebo’ has also been deleted from following paragraph:

‘[...] authorised feeds produced in the geographical area defined and delimited in this document for use in the “Recebo” and “Cebo de Campo” categories [...]’

It now reads as follows:

‘[...] authorised feeds produced in the geographical area defined and delimited in this document for use in the “Cebo de Campo” category [...]’

3.

The wording has been brought into line with the legislation in force on the registration of establishments in the animal feed sector.

The following paragraph of the specification (Section E.1, ‘Farming practices and types of pig’):

‘The Regulatory Board has laid down a positive list of authorised feeds produced in the geographical area defined and delimited in this document for use in the “Recebo” and “Cebo de Campo” categories based on their composition, which must be mainly cereals and legumes. It has checked their composition against Royal Decree No 1191/1998 on the registration of animal feed sector establishments.’

has been amended to read as follows:

‘The Regulatory Board must check that the authorised feed has been produced in the geographical area delimited and defined in this document for use in the “Cebo de Campo” category based on their composition, which must be mainly cereals and legumes. It must also verify compliance with the provisions of Royal Decree 629/2019 of 31 October 2019 on the general register of establishments in the animal feed sector, the conditions for approving or registering such establishments and national entry points, the activities of feed operators and the National Coordination Committee for Animal Feed.’

Reason:

As a result of the repeal of Royal Decree 1191/1998 of 12 June 1998 on the authorisation and registration of establishments and intermediaries in the animal feed sector, the wording has been brought into line with the new legislation.

4.

The following sentence has been deleted from the specification (Section E.2, ‘With regard to slaughter and quartering’):

‘The pigs must arrive at the abattoir at least 12 hours before slaughter, in order to eliminate fatigue from transport and ensure a minimum level of muscular glycogen reserves.’

Reason:

This deletion is due to the fact that keeping the pigs in the abattoir for more than 24 hours (the original specification provided for a minimum period of 12 hours) is contrary to European animal welfare guidelines. It is therefore more appropriate to require merely that the pigs be received and kept in the abattoir in accordance with the applicable technical and health regulations.

5.

The following paragraph in the original specification (Section E.2, ‘With regard to slaughter and quartering’):

‘Limbs from carcasses weighing less than 110 kg must be discarded.’

has been replaced by:

‘Limbs from carcasses weighing less than 108 kg must be discarded.’

Reason:

The reason for this change is to bring the PDO specification into line with the new Iberian Quality Standard, which establishes the minimum carcass weight depending on the breed of pig. For 100 % Iberian pigs, the Quality Standard provides for a minimum carcass weight of 108 kg. This constitutes a reduction of only 2 kg compared to the minimum weight laid down in the original PDO specification (110 kg), which has a minimal influence on the final weight of the cured cuts and has no influence on the quality of the final product. This change is therefore justified simply by the fact that exact correlation with the Quality Standard makes carcass management easier.

6.

With regard to the process of resting the cuts, the following paragraph of the specification (Section E.3, ‘With regard to industrial processing’):

‘How long the cuts remain in the cold rooms depends on their weight and may be between 30 and 90 days.’

has been amended to read as follows:

‘How long the cuts remain in the cold rooms depends on their weight and may be between 30 and 90 days. However, this stage can be further extended, overlapping with the drying/maturing stage, to achieve the natural environmental conditions of temperature and relative humidity necessary to guarantee the product is correctly prepared in the traditional manner.’

Reason:

The proposed new wording is better aligned with the traditional production practices and customs in the PDO territory as a result of its particular climate. Historically, the temperatures in this area are more extreme than in other ham and shoulder production areas in Spain, which affects the temperature in the natural drying sheds, making them higher in the summer months and lower in winter. As a result of the high temperatures in the summer months, it may be necessary to allow the cuts a period of adjustment between the post-salting room and the natural drying shed, where temperatures can reach 30 °C. This will make it possible to avoid sudden fluctuations in the temperature and relative humidity conditions experienced by the hams and shoulders when moving from one stage to the other, as this could result in unevenly cured cuts.

7.

With regard to the process of drying/maturing the cuts, the following paragraph of the specification (Section E.3, ‘With regard to industrial processing’):

‘This process is estimated to last some 6 months.’

has been replaced by the following:

‘This process is estimated to last between 6 months and 1 year.’

Reason:

The new wording is better aligned with the traditional practices and customs in the production of hams and shoulders in the PDO territory, without affecting the quality or specific character of the products. Establishing a range (‘between 6 months and 1 year’) provides greater clarity than estimating the usual length of time (‘some 6 months’).

8.

The minimum curing periods have been brought into line with the new Iberian Quality Standard by replacing the following paragraph of the specification on the storehouse ageing process (Section E.3, ‘With regard to industrial processing’):

‘The cuts are aged in the storehouse for a minimum of 18 months from the start of the production process for the hams, and 12 months for the shoulder cuts.’

with the following paragraph:

‘The cuts are aged in the storehouse for a minimum of 2 years from the start of the production process for the hams and 1 year for the shoulder cuts.’

Similarly, the following paragraph in Section 4.2, ‘Description’, of the old single document:

‘Minimum curing time is 12 months for the shoulders and 18 months for the hams.’

is replaced by the following (Section 3.2, ‘Description of the product’):

‘Minimum curing time is 1 year for the shoulders and 2 years for the hams.’

Reason:

As a result of the minimum curing periods laid down in the new Iberian Quality Standard, it is necessary to increase the ageing time for hams, which in no way reduces the quality requirements.

9.

The following paragraph in the specification (Section E.3, ‘With regard to industrial processing’) and in the single document (Section 3.5, ‘Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to’) on the handling of the finished product:

‘Registered storehouses may be authorised to market the de-boned “Los Pedroches” hams and shoulders as “centre cuts”, “slices” or “portions”, provided there is a guarantee that the provenance of the product is not restricted to the area of production and preparation.’

has been amended to read as follows:

‘ “Los Pedroches” PDO hams and shoulders may be presented for sale boneless, as centre cuts, slices or portions, provided that they are packaged and their origin can be identified. This operation may be carried out by operators that have accepted and comply with the operating protocol established by the Regulatory Board to guarantee the product’s traceability, origin, identification and final quality, and are entered for this purpose in the Regulatory Board’s registers.’

Reason:

To provide greater guarantees on maintaining the traceability of the product.

10.

In the single document, the section ‘Method of production’ has been removed entirely in order to align with the new format provided for in Annex VI to Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) No 668/2014 of 13 June 2014.

5.5.   Link

1.

The section on the link has been rewritten.

The following explanation in Section F, ‘Link with the geographical environment’, of the specification (and the equivalent explanation in Section 4.6, ‘Link’, of the summary sheet):

‘In the area known geographically as “Los Pedroches”, and in general across the entire northern area of the province of Córdoba, there are roughly 300 000 hectares of holm oak dehesa, which constitutes 10 % of the national total, some 3 million hectares. As part of this system of agriculture, forestry and grazing, livestock have been reared in an extensive farming system since ancient times, the most outstanding example of which is the rearing and farming of Iberian pigs, making the most of the nutritional potential of the acorn. Without the presence of the pigs, this ecosystem would likely disappear.

This fertile forest, which in the past covered a large part of the Mediterranean region, has been reduced to a number of areas of Spain, such as the one in question, due to doubts about its economic viability. These dehesas were bought from the Crown in the 16th century and were mostly auctioned off for farming under various systems, including pannage. Subsequently, in the 19th century, the lands were taken out of the ownership of the church or the nobility and put on the market; however, their cultivation remained supervised which, together with subsequent legislation governing the felling of trees and the stewardship of oak woods, has enabled this ecosystem to survive until today.

The current density of trees of the genus “ Quercus ” on the “Los Pedroches” dehesa varies between 40 and 50 per hectare. The practice of sowing cereals on the dehesa is being abandoned in the eastern part of the district, although it has been preserved in the west. In general, every 8th year is a mast year. The average acorn harvest in our region is around 1 000 kg/ha.

The Iberian pig is without doubt the animal best adapted to the pannage system due to its behaviour, which makes it naturally suited for this system. This animal, finished on this feeding system, is the only one capable of providing the industry with the raw material for producing meat products which are so popular with end consumers.

This rearing system lasts for a minimum of 15 months, the last 4 or 5 of which are used for pannage. This stage begins at the end of October or the beginning of November depending on the year and may last until the beginning of March. In it, the animals complete their fattening, making use in an entirely natural way and under a free-range system of the fruit of the holm oak, cork oak and gall oak – the acorn – and the natural pastures that exist at this time of year in this area. It is important to note that this is the only dehesa area in which the gall oak produces fruit. The acorn from this species ripens some 20 days earlier than for the rest of the “ Quercus ” genus, thus bringing the pannage period forward for the Iberian pig. This is hugely significant for the characteristics of the products covered by the protected designation of origin. It should be noted that the pigs in the “Los Pedroches” area are the only ones who feed to a significant extent on the acorns of this tree, which is significant in terms of the link between the product and the area covered by the protected designation of origin.

The most common strains of Iberian pig within the district in question are the lampiño, the negra entrepelada, the retinta and the torbiscal. We would also like to highlight the efforts currently being made to recover the “negro de Los Pedroches” strain, a variety native to our district which almost died out but which we are now trying to bring back.

From the historical production data for this animal collected by the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Rural Development of the Andalusian Government, we can deduce that, in our production area, some 50 000 pigs are fattened on acorns every year, with this figure fluctuating depending on the amount of fruit produced on the dehesa in each year.

This type of livestock management, the salient feature of which is the aforementioned traditional pannage as the final fattening stage, ensures the laying-down of fat whose melting point lowers as more acorns are consumed, which gives the cuts their much sought-after aroma and succulence, and the physical exercise taken by the pigs gives it a denser muscular texture through which the fat is more evident.

The extraordinary sensory quality of the hams and shoulders covered by the protected designation of origin is therefore associated with a system of farming which is unique and exclusive on a global scale – namely the aforementioned grazing system – using to good effect the natural resources of the dehesa for the final fattening stage, principally acorns and grass, which is the essential factor giving the product fat of a type which it is impossible to imitate by any other production method.

On the dehesas in the north of the province of Córdoba, we find the highest percentage of holm oaks compared with other species in the genus Quercus sp. anywhere on the Iberian Peninsula. This is significant in terms of the type of acorn that the pigs eat in the geographical area covered by the protected designation of origin.

The importance of the dehesa pasture in the diet of the Iberian pigs raised in extensive farming systems on the dehesa should also be noted as a factor which characterises and differentiates the finished product protected by this designation of origin and thus the product’s link with the geographical area. The quantity and type of vegetation present on the dehesas of “Los Pedroches” throughout the year is unusual, as it is different to the vegetation present on the other dehesas. Again, this shows the importance of the acorns and the pastures in a specific area in setting the product apart and determining its final organoleptic properties.

In fact, the market alone is proof of the excellence of “Los Pedroches” hams and shoulders, given that a large proportion of the animals selected, reared and fattened in the area in order to obtain food with high nutritional quality have traditionally been exported to other parts of the country, in which they were slaughtered. Their subsequent preparation and marketing gave them significant added value.

However, this situation, which held back the district’s economy, is changing, and in the 1980s increasing numbers of undertakings began to set up in the district, transforming the Iberian pig carcasses produced in our region and concentrating on preparation and marketing, especially of the better cuts of the pig.

The future success of these undertakings lies in their perfect understanding of the fact that the culinary quality of the Iberian pig’s finer products comes from rounding off the intrinsic quality of the raw material with artisanal production techniques. Their greatest achievement has been to take the production techniques that have been established and developed in our district over the years and adapt them to modern industrial processes, while still respecting the basic essence of each of the steps involved in creating the ham, from the requirement to let the animals rest to the final presentation to consumers. Furthermore, the development of all these techniques has introduced improvements, such as being able to control potential climate impacts, eliminating the harmful effects that may arise in some years and monitoring and standardising the product across several marketing cycles.

Production is based on individual treatment and inspection of each piece, an average altitude of approximately 700 m above sea level and the cold and dry continental climate which prevails in the area during the production season.

This entire process provides us with a finished product that has a marbled appearance when cut and an aroma and juiciness unmatched by any other preserved meat in the world. Not only does the market recognise these points, but the particular quality of the “Los Pedroches” hams and shoulders due to their precise origin is also acknowledged scientifically.’

have been replaced by the following in Section F, ‘Link with the geographical environment’, of the specification:

‘The link with the geographical area is based on natural factors, on the specific characteristics of the product and on the specific production method used in the defined geographical area. Specifically, the particular ecosystem of the geographical area has an influence on the system in which the animals are reared and allows them to be fed using a range of natural resources which determine the organoleptic characteristics of the final product. Furthermore, the production process, mainly the drying and maturing stages that take place in a natural environment and take advantage of the climate conditions in the area, also determines the development of the aroma and taste of the product.

As regards the natural conditions, in the area known geographically as “Los Pedroches”, and in general across the entire northern area of the province of Córdoba, there are roughly 300 000 hectares of holm oak dehesa, which constitutes 10 % of the national total, some 3 million hectares. This particular system of agriculture, forestry and grazing has allowed livestock to be reared in an extensive farming system since ancient times, the most outstanding example of which is the rearing and farming of Iberian pigs, making the most of the nutritional potential of the acorn. Without the presence of the pigs, this ecosystem would likely disappear.

The natural conditions specific to the area therefore firstly affect the system in which the animals are reared, enabling them to finish fattening by making the most, in a completely natural way and in an extensive farming system, of the fruit of the holm oak, cork oak and gall oak – the acorn – and the natural pastures offered by the dehesa. It should be borne in mind that the Iberian pig, due to its behaviour, is the animal best adapted to natural pannage feeding.

The most common strains of Iberian pig within the district are the lampiño, the negra entrepelada, the retinta and the torbiscal. We would also like to highlight the efforts currently being made to recover the “negro de Los Pedroches” strain, a variety native to our area.

Furthermore, “Los Pedroches” is the only dehesa area in which the gall oak produces fruit. The acorn from this species ripens some 20 days earlier than for the rest of the “ Quercus ” genus, allowing the pannage period for the Iberian pigs to be brought forward. This stage begins at the end of October or in early November, depending on the year, and can last until the beginning of March. As explained, the animals finish fattening using the area’s natural resources and, in this particular case, feed heavily on the acorns of the trees in question.

In this way, the diet of the animals that provide the raw material used to produce the hams and shoulders covered by the PDO is characterised by the type of acorns they consume, bearing in mind that the dehesas in the north of the province of Córdoba contain the highest percentage of holm oak, compared with other species of the genus “ Quercus ”, in the whole Iberian Peninsula. The animals’ diet is also characterised by the pasture, grass, stubble and other natural substances on the dehesa.

Finally, this type of extensive grazing system, the key feature of which is pannage, provides the hams and shoulders covered by the PDO with a range of branched hydrocarbons from the acorns and grass consumed by the pigs, as well as fat with a lower melting point than other animal fats. This demonstrates the impact that the natural factors present in the area have on the quality and specific characteristics of the product obtained.

These circumstances, together with a subsequent production process that depends to a large extent on the natural climate conditions in the area, particularly the stages that take place in natural drying sheds and storehouses, give rise to the compounds responsible for the characteristic flavour and aroma of the “Los Pedroches” hams and shoulders, as explained below.

The defined geographical area (in the north of the province of Córdoba and consisting of municipalities located in Valle de Los Pedroches, Valle del Guadiato and Sierra de Córdoba, all above 300 metres and with an average altitude of some 700 metres above sea level) has its own climate, distinct from that of the rest of the province and of Andalusia. The area is located at the heart of the Sierra Morena, bordered to the south by a series of mountain ranges forming part of the Sierra Morena. To the west and north-west, it is bordered by the River Zújar; to the north, by the River Guadalmez; and to the east, by the River Yeguas. These are all supported by low mountain ranges which contrast with the large plain that makes up the district as a whole. The area’s distinct climate is a result of its isolated nature owing to the Sierra Morena and Cordilleras Béticas mountain ranges.

The climate type is subhumid Mediterranean, albeit marked by continentality, with long and cold winters bringing harsh frost and irregular rainfall, and hot and dry summers. The continental aspect manifests itself mainly in the rainfall system and in the daily and annual temperature fluctuations, the latter being quite wide and with marked differences between summer and winter. Clear days or days with few clouds predominate, and the average number of hours of sunshine is over 2 500 per year.

Temperatures vary greatly from one season to another, and even during the day. However, the temperature is uniform throughout the area, with average temperatures ranging from 26 °C to 27 °C in summer and 7 °C to 8 °C in winter. During the summer period, and in particular in July and August, the highest temperatures occur, sometimes exceeding 35 °C during the day, while at night it falls to 18-20 °C. In winter, temperatures are significantly lower, ranging from an average maximum of between 10 °C and 15 °C to an average minimum of between –2 °C and 2 °C.

These climate conditions allow the ham to be dried in natural drying sheds. The cuts are hung up and exposed to the surrounding climate conditions, while the necessary temperature and humidity levels are achieved by simply opening and closing the windows. This stage results in colour stability and dries the ham to a degree that ensures its final stability. It also encourages the formation of compounds responsible for the ham’s flavour (free amino acids) and aroma (proteolysis and lipid degradation processes). To this end, the ham is exposed to progressively higher temperatures and lower relative humidity; it should be borne in mind that this phase usually coincides with the summer season, which results in gradual increases in temperature from 15-18 °C to 28-30 °C and a relative humidity of 60-80 %. This increase in temperature enhances salt diffusion and dehydration, leading to balanced salt levels and water availability between external and internal areas, and releasing proteolysis products, which inhibit water activity (aw).

Finally, the hams and shoulders are moved to the storehouses where the final curing stage takes place, and are slowly matured. In this final stage, the chemical process that began in the previous stage continues, as do the reactions that generate the compounds responsible for the meat’s characteristic flavour and aroma. The lower temperature, relative humidity and aw cause the products of the intense hydrolysis of lipids and proteins to condense. These are compounds with low molecular weight and high taste and aroma potential: peptides, amino acids and amines from protein hydrolysis, and free fatty acids, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols, esters and hydrocarbons from lipid hydrolysis and oxidation. As explained above, a range of branched hydrocarbons from plant products, acorns and grass, which form part of the pigs’ diet, are also present.

Finally, these factors of the production process (mainly temperature, water activity and salt concentration) determine the microbial population on the surface of the cured hams and shoulders, consisting mainly of yeasts, moulds and micrococcaceae, which are most suited to the environmental conditions achieved. These have an influence on the organoleptic characteristics of the final product through the volatile products they generate. In this respect, there is scientific evidence demonstrating the role played by microorganisms in the proteolytic and lipolytic processes that take place during the maturation of ham from Iberian pigs (Núñez et al., 1998, Rodríguez et al., 1998) and their contribution to the development of the meat’s aroma and flavour (Martín et al., 2004, 2006; Andrade, 2009).’

and by the same content in Section 5, ‘Link with the geographical area’, of the single document, with the exception of the ninth paragraph, which has been worded more succinctly:

‘The defined geographical area (consisting of municipalities located in Valle de Los Pedroches, Valle del Guadiato and Sierra de Córdoba, all above 300 metres and with an average altitude of some 700 metres above sea level) has its own climate, distinct from that of the rest of the province and of Andalusia, which is a result of its isolated nature owing to the Sierra Morena and Cordilleras Béticas mountain ranges.’

Reason:

The purpose of this amendment is to highlight the impact that the area and the production conditions present in the area have during production in the natural environment, and the influence they have on the final product’s specific characteristics, in addition to the importance of the dehesas and the extensive farming system in which the final fattening of the pigs takes place, which was already highlighted in the original specification. These aspects relating to the curing stage, which have an undeniable impact on the final product’s characteristics (as highlighted in a study and technical report on the ‘Influence of the production area on the curing of “Los Pedroches” PDO Iberian ham’ by the RDI department of the CICAP Technology Centre) had been wrongly omitted from the section on the link in the original specification.

The amendment also serves to clearly establish the causal link between the product and the factors present in the geographical area while avoiding references which are generic or too vague.

5.6.   Labelling

1.

The indication of the pigs’ breed and feed on the labelling of the products has been included. The following paragraph of the specification (Section H, ‘Labelling’):

‘[...] which must bear the words “Denominación de Origen Protegida Los Pedroches” and show the grade to which the cut, ham or shoulder belongs, together with the category of feed.’

and the following paragraph of the single document (Section 4.8, ‘Labelling’):

‘[...] bearing the words “Denominación de Origen ‘Los Pedroches’ ” and the category to which the cut in question belongs.’

have been replaced by the following (Section H, ‘Labelling’, of the new specification and Section 3.6, ‘Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to’, of the new single document):

‘[...] bearing the words “Denominación de Origen Protegida ‘Los Pedroches’ ” and the grade to which the cut in question belongs (ham or shoulder), together with the category of breed and feed.’

Reason:

The Quality Standard imposes an obligation to indicate the pig’s Iberian breed percentage on the labelling of the products, as a result of which a reference to the breed has been included.

2.

The official PDO logo, which identifies all protected hams and shoulders, has been reproduced in both the specification and the single document:

The label must also bear the official PDO logo (reproduced below):

Image 1

5.7.   Checks on compliance with the specification

1.

The information in the following paragraphs of the specification (Section G, ‘Checks on compliance with the specification’) has been updated:

‘Checks on compliance with the specifications prior to marketing of the product are carried out in accordance with Council Regulation (EC) No 510/2006 of 20 March 2006.

The competent inspection body is the Directorate-General for Industry and Agri-food Quality of Andalusia’s regional Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries – C/ Tabladilla, s/n, 41071 Seville, Spain; tel. +34 955032278; fax +34 955032112; email: dgipa.cap@juntadeandalucia.es.

Information on the bodies tasked with checking compliance with the requirements set out in the specification may be found at the following address:

http://www.juntadeandalucia.es/agriculturaypesca/portal/areas-tematicas/industrias-agroalimentarias/calidad-y-promocion-agroalimentaria/denominaciones-de-calidad/jamones-y-paletas.html.’

They have been replaced by:

‘Before the product is placed on the market, it is subject to product specification compliance checks as required by Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 21 November 2012 on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs.

The competent authority designated as responsible for the checks is the Directorate-General for Agri-food Industry, Innovation and the Food Supply Chain of the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries, Water and Rural Development of the Government of the Autonomous Community of Andalusia, C/ Tabladilla, s/n, 41071 Seville; tel. +34 955032278; fax +34 955032112; email: dgiica.cagpds@juntadeandalucia.es.

Information on the bodies tasked with checking compliance with the requirements set out in the specification may be found at the following address:

https://www.juntadeandalucia.es/organismos/agriculturaganaderiapescaydesarrollosostenible/areas/industrias-agroalimentarias/calidad/paginas/denominaciones-calidad-jamones-paletas.html’

Reason:

This section has been amended due to changes to the name of the competent authority, the applicable EU legislation and the link concerning the information on the entities responsible for checking compliance with the specification.

2.

In the single document, the section ‘Inspection Body’ has been removed in order to align with the new format provided for in Annex VI to Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) No 668/2014 of 13 June 2014.

5.8.   Legislative requirements

Section I, ‘Legislative requirements’, has been deleted as it is not one of the sections that must be included in the specification under Article 7 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 21 November 2012 on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs.

SINGLE DOCUMENT

’LOS PEDROCHES’

EU No: PDO-ES-0506-AM02 - 29.7.2021

PDO (X) PGI ( )

1.   Name(s)

‘Los Pedroches’

2.   Member State or Third Country

Spain

3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product

Class 1.2. Meat products (cooked, salted, smoked, etc.)

3.2.   Description of product to which the name in (1) applies

The characteristics of the ‘Los Pedroches’ PDO hams and shoulders at the end of the production process are as follows:

External appearance: long, slender shape with the typical ‘corte serrano’ V-cut. When they are sold whole, the hoof is kept on to aid identification.

Minimum weight of 5,75 kg for hams and 3,7 kg for shoulders.

Characteristic colour ranging from pink to purplish-red, marbled appearance when cut.

The meat is not very salty or sweet in flavour. The meat is dry in flavour. The aroma is pleasant and intense, with a hint of roasted or dry nuts, which is typical of this kind of product.

The texture is not very fibrous.

The fat is glossy and pinkish-white or with yellowish tinges; it is aromatic, with a pleasant taste; and its consistency varies according to the proportion of acorns in the diet.

The various cuts are classified according to the breed and the type of feed the pigs have been given during their final fattening stage, as follows:

‘Bellota 100 % Ibérico’ hams and shoulders: from 100 % Iberian pigs fattened in the final stage in a pannage grazing system on the dehesa and fed exclusively on acorns and grass.

‘Cebo de Campo 100 % Ibérico’ hams and shoulders: from 100 % Iberian pigs which have been fattened by grazing on the dehesas in our region, principally on natural resources from the dehesa and supplemented if necessary by a daily ration of feed.

Minimum curing time is 1 year for the shoulders and 2 years for the hams.

3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The raw materials

Pork legs from:

‘Bellota’ pigs: final feeding diet based exclusively on acorns and grass on the dehesas of the defined geographical area. Thus, the feed is fully sourced in the defined geographical area described in this document.

‘Cebo de Campo’ pigs: in their final fattening stage the pigs are reared by grazing on the dehesas of the defined geographical area and fed principally on natural products such as acorn remains, grass or cereal stubble depending on the season. This is supplemented with feed where necessary. The proportion of the feed originating in the geographical area described in this document is at least 65 %.

Feed

The feed used to supplement the food of the ‘Cebo de Campo’ pigs is made up of a mixture of mainly cereals (wheat, barley and maize) and to a lesser extent legumes (peas and soya beans). A significant proportion of the ingredients comes from traditional production within the geographical area, but a minor proportion of the ingredients, such as soya, does not. This means that it is not technically possible for the feed to come entirely from the defined geographical area; it has therefore been permitted to add feed sourced from outside the area.

As explained in Section 5 of this document, it is the pasture resources of the dehesa that determine the quality of both the material used to make the hams and shoulders covered by the PDO, and also of the product itself. The use of feed from outside the area does not therefore affect the quality of the product associated with the geographical environment.

In any case, the traditional grazing system required by the system of rearing and fattening itself, and the fact that only a small amount of the feed may be produced outside the territory, ensures that the percentage of total ingested dry matter which originated inside the geographical area – in the case of ‘Cebo de Campo’ pigs (whose food is supplemented by feed) – is significantly above the minimum allowed by the applicable legislation (Article 1(1) of Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) No 664/2014 of 18 December 2013).

3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

All stages of production take place within the geographical area. These are as follows:

Rearing and fattening the pigs, the legs of which are used to make the product covered.

Slaughtering the animal and cutting up the meat.

All preparation stages, which include: salting, washing, resting, drying/maturing and ageing in storehouses.

3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

‘Los Pedroches’ PDO hams and shoulders may be presented for sale boneless, as centre cuts, slices or portions, provided that they are packaged and their origin can be identified. This operation may be carried out by operators that have accepted and comply with the operating protocol established by the Regulatory Board to guarantee the product’s traceability, origin, identification and final quality, and are entered for this purpose in the Regulatory Board’s registers.

3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

The Regulatory Board must affix a secondary label to each cut, so that it is fully visible and in such a way as to prevent reuse, bearing the words ‘Denominación de Origen Protegida “Los Pedroches” ’ and the grade to which the cut in question belongs (ham or shoulder), along with the category of breed and feed.

The label must also bear the official PDO logo (reproduced below):

Image 2

4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

The area in which the pigs whose cuts are used in the preparation of hams and shoulders covered by the ‘Los Pedroches’ protected designation of origin are reared and fattened, and in which the entire production, slaughtering and butchering of the Iberian pigs and the salting, curing, drying and maturing of the cuts takes place, consists of the following municipalities in the province of Córdoba:

Alcaracejos, Añora, Belalcázar, Bélmez, Los Blázquez, Cardeña, Conquista, Dos Torres, Espiel, Fuente La Lancha, Fuente Obejuna, La Granjuela, El Guijo, Hinojosa del Duque, Pedroche, Peñarroya-Pueblonuevo, Pozoblanco, Santa Eufemia, Torrecampo, Valsequillo, Villanueva de Córdoba, Villanueva del Duque, Villanueva del Rey, Villaralto and El Viso, and at altitudes above 300 metres in the municipalities of Adamuz, Hornachuelos, Montoro, Obejo, Posadas, Villaharta and Villaviciosa.

5.   Link with the geographical area

The link with the geographical area is based on natural factors, on the specific characteristics of the product and on the specific production method used in the defined geographical area. Specifically, the particular ecosystem of the geographical area has an influence on the system in which the animals are reared and allows them to be fed using a range of natural resources which determine the organoleptic characteristics of the final product. Furthermore, the production process, mainly the drying and maturing stages that take place in a natural environment and take advantage of the climate conditions in the area, also determines the development of the aroma and taste of the product.

As regards the natural conditions, in the area known geographically as ‘Los Pedroches’, and in general across the entire northern area of the province of Córdoba, there are roughly 300 000 hectares of holm oak dehesa, which constitutes 10 % of the national total, some 3 million hectares. This particular system of agriculture, forestry and grazing has allowed livestock to be reared in an extensive farming system since ancient times, the most outstanding example of which is the rearing and farming of Iberian pigs, making the most of the nutritional potential of the acorn. Without the presence of the pigs, this ecosystem would likely disappear.

The natural conditions specific to the area therefore firstly affect the system in which the animals are reared, enabling them to finish fattening by making the most, in a completely natural way and in an extensive farming system, of the fruit of the holm oak, cork oak and gall oak – the acorn – and the natural pastures offered by the dehesa. It should be borne in mind that the Iberian pig, due to its behaviour, is the animal best adapted to natural pannage feeding.

The most common strains of Iberian pig within the district are the lampiño, the negra entrepelada, the retinta and the torbiscal. We would also like to highlight the efforts currently being made to recover the ‘negro de Los Pedroches’ strain, a variety native to our area.

Furthermore, ‘Los Pedroches’ is the only dehesa area in which the gall oak produces fruit. The acorn from this species ripens some 20 days earlier than for the rest of the ‘ Quercus ’ genus, allowing the pannage period for the Iberian pigs to be brought forward. This stage begins at the end of October or in early November, depending on the year, and can last until the beginning of March. As explained, the animals finish fattening using the area’s natural resources and, in this particular case, feed heavily on the acorns of the trees in question.

In this way, the diet of the animals that provide the raw material used to produce the hams and shoulders covered by the PDO is characterised by the type of acorns they consume, bearing in mind that the dehesas in the north of the province of Córdoba contain the highest percentage of holm oak, compared with other species of the genus ‘ Quercus ’, in the whole Iberian Peninsula. The animals’ diet is also characterised by the pasture, grass, stubble and other natural substances on the dehesa.

Finally, this type of extensive grazing system, the key feature of which is pannage, provides the hams and shoulders covered by the PDO with a range of branched hydrocarbons from the acorns and grass consumed by the pigs, as well as fat with a lower melting point than other animal fats. This demonstrates the impact that the natural factors present in the area have on the quality and specific characteristics of the product obtained.

These circumstances, together with a subsequent production process that depends to a large extent on the natural climate conditions in the area, particularly the stages that take place in natural drying sheds and storehouses, give rise to the compounds responsible for the characteristic flavour and aroma of the ‘Los Pedroches’ hams and shoulders, as explained below.

The defined geographical area (consisting of municipalities located in Valle de Los Pedroches, Valle del Guadiato and Sierra de Córdoba, all above 300 metres and with an average altitude of some 700 metres above sea level) has its own climate, distinct from that of the rest of the province and of Andalusia, which is a result of its isolated nature owing to the Sierra Morena and Cordilleras Béticas mountain ranges.

The climate type is subhumid Mediterranean, albeit marked by continentality, with long and cold winters bringing harsh frost and irregular rainfall, and hot and dry summers. The continental aspect manifests itself mainly in the rainfall system and in the daily and annual temperature fluctuations, the latter being quite wide and with marked differences between summer and winter. Clear days or days with few clouds predominate, and the average number of hours of sunshine is over 2 500 per year.

Temperatures vary greatly from one season to another, and even during the day. However, the temperature is uniform throughout the area, with average temperatures ranging from 26 °C to 27 °C in summer and 7 °C to 8 °C in winter. During the summer period, and in particular in July and August, the highest temperatures occur, sometimes exceeding 35 °C during the day, while at night it falls to 18-20 °C. In winter, temperatures are significantly lower, ranging from an average maximum of between 10 °C and 15 °C to an average minimum of between –2 °C and 2 °C.

These climate conditions allow the ham to be dried in natural drying sheds. The cuts are hung up and exposed to the surrounding climate conditions, while the necessary temperature and humidity levels are achieved by simply opening and closing the windows. This stage results in colour stability and dries the ham to a degree that ensures its final stability. It also encourages the formation of compounds responsible for the ham’s flavour (free amino acids) and aroma (proteolysis and lipid degradation processes). To this end, the ham is exposed to progressively higher temperatures and lower relative humidity; it should be borne in mind that this phase usually coincides with the summer season, which results in gradual increases in temperature from 15-18 °C to 28-30 °C and a relative humidity of 60-80 %. This increase in temperature enhances salt diffusion and dehydration, leading to balanced salt levels and water availability between external and internal areas, and releasing proteolysis products, which inhibit water activity (aw).

Finally, the hams and shoulders are moved to the storehouses where the final curing stage takes place, and are slowly matured. In this final stage, the chemical process that began in the previous stage continues, as do the reactions that generate the compounds responsible for the meat’s characteristic flavour and aroma. The lower temperature, relative humidity and aw cause the products of the intense hydrolysis of lipids and proteins to condense. These are compounds with low molecular weight and high taste and aroma potential: peptides, amino acids and amines from protein hydrolysis, and free fatty acids, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols, esters and hydrocarbons from lipid hydrolysis and oxidation. As explained above, a range of branched hydrocarbons from plant products, acorns and grass, which form part of the pigs’ diet, are also present.

Finally, these factors of the production process (mainly temperature, water activity and salt concentration) determine the microbial population on the surface of the cured hams and shoulders, consisting mainly of yeasts, moulds and micrococcaceae, which are most suited to the environmental conditions achieved. These have an influence on the organoleptic characteristics of the final product through the volatile products they generate. In this respect, there is scientific evidence demonstrating the role played by microorganisms in the proteolytic and lipolytic processes that take place during the maturation of ham from Iberian pigs (Núñez et al., 1998, Rodríguez et al., 1998) and their contribution to the development of the meat’s aroma and flavour (Martín et al., 2004, 2006; Andrade, 2009).

Reference to publication of the specification

https://juntadeandalucia.es/sites/default/files/inline-files/2022/08/Pliego_modificado_Los_Pedroches.pdf


(1)   OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.

(2)  Competent national authority as referred to in Article 36 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.