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27.11.2019 |
EN |
Official Journal of the European Union |
C 401/8 |
Publication of an application for registration of a name pursuant to Article 50(2)(b) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs
(2019/C 401/06)
This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.
PRODUCT SPECIFICATION OF A TRADITIONAL SPECIALITY GUARANTEED
‘WATERCRESS’/‘CRESSON DE FONTAINE’/‘BERROS DE AGUA’/‘AGRIÃO DE ÁGUA’/‘WATERKERS’/‘BRUNNENKRESSE’
EU No: TSG-GB-0062 — 6.12.2010
‘United Kingdom’
1. Name(s) to be registered
‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’
2. Type of product
Class 1.6. Fruit, vegetables and cereals fresh or processed
3. Grounds for registration
3.1. Whether the product:
☒ results from a mode of production, processing or composition corresponding to traditional practice for that product or foodstuff
☐ is produced from raw materials or ingredients that are those traditionally used.
‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ is naturally grown in flowing water to a traditional commercial production method used for over 200 years.
3.2. Whether the name:
☐ has been traditionally used to refer to the specific product
☒ identifies the traditional character or specific character of the product
For centuries even before commercial production commenced in Europe over 200 years ago, the name ‘water-cress’ in the UK, ‘cresson de fontaine’ in France, ‘Berros de Agua’ in Spain, ‘agrião de água’ in Portugal, but also ‘waterkers’ in Holland and ‘Brunnenkresse’ in Germany has been used to specify this variant of the cress family which is grown and harvested in flowing water. Cress is the plant name and water the descriptor.
4. Description
4.1. Description of the product to which the name under point 1 applies, including its main physical, chemical, microbiological or organoleptic characteristics showing the product’s specific character (Article 7(2) of this Regulation)
‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ with the botanical name Nasturtium officinale is a rapidly-growing, aquatic or semi-aquatic, perennial plant native to Europe, the Americas and Asia, and is one of the oldest known leaf vegetables consumed by humans. It is currently a member of the family Brassicaceae.
The botanical synonyms of Nasturtium officinale are Rorippa nasturtium-aquaticum, Nasturtium nasturtium-aquaticum and Sisymbrium nasturtium-aquaticum L. They reflect the true aquatic nature of the plant and how it grows.
The product presented to customers range from overall length of approximately 15cm to 18cm and leaves of 2cm to 5cm for bunch, and for packs overall length of approximately 5cm to 12cm and leaves of 1cm to 3cm.
The traditionally grown crop is cut from flowing water and is characterised by soft mid-green, moist leaves which have an unbroken edge and an oval shape. The stems are crisp, slightly paler in colour and can have some lateral roots extending from the joints of leaves to the stem.
Derived from the environment in which the plant is grown; commercially grown in flowing spring water the crop acquires an epiphytic microbial population characteristically high in benign Pseudomonad sp. The plant is grown in pure flowing water of high microbiological quality.
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Alternate, pinnately compound leaves with 3 to 11 oblong to oval leaflets, these are shiny, dark green, rounded at the tip, smooth without teeth or with wavy toothed margins. The colour from green (Hex triplet 008000) to dark green (Hex triplet 006400). |
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Creeping or floating stems which are succulent or fleshy |
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Smooth fibrous roots which allow rooting to occur anywhere along the submerged stem, primarily at the nodes. |
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The plant bears white flowers with 4 petals about 3mm to 5mm across, in terminal racemes and in racemes from the axils of the uppermost leaves. Small white and green flowers are produced in clusters. As part of the plants’ natural life cycle flowers occur during the early summer months when day length is approaching its maximum. |
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In comparison Landcress is of the genus Barberea Verna, produces single pinnately divided green leaves on a stem, and during the flowering period has yellow flowers. |
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‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ is rich in glucosinolates and unique in high expression of the glucosinolate B-phenylethyl glucosinolate which releases phenylethylisothiocyanate (PEITC) at a percentage of 10mg/100g FW. PEITC is released during chewing and is responsible for the characteristic pungent flavour. The peppery taste characteristic is due to the mustard oils inherent in the plant. Stress affects the levels of PEITC in the plant. If the crop is stressed through low or high temperature, or subject to water shortage the plant produces variant levels of PEITC. |
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Comparative testing of ‘Watercress’ against land grown cress have indicated that the colour of ‘Watercress’ is darker/greener than land grown cress, it is significantly more peppery and it has a softer texture.
A further sensory evaluation was conducted in 2009 also indicated that land grown watercress had a weaker and less peppery flavour. Some comments were also recorded as to the water grown sample having darker leaves and a softer texture.
These two assessments demonstrated that on both occasions a professionally conducted evaluation of land versus flowing water grown crops identified differences, and when preference was sought, identified ‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ as superior – on organoleptic qualities alone.
Characteristically ‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ has a mustard after taste; it is peppery, hot and slightly bitter.
4.2. Description of the production method of the product to which the name under point 1 applies that the producers must follow including, where appropriate, the nature and characteristics of the raw materials or ingredients used, and the method by which the product is prepared (Article 7(2) of this Regulation)
‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ ‘must be grown in and harvested from flowing water using Nasturtium officinale seed. However seed may be sown on a suitable substrate in a propagation facility and the seedlings transferred to the production beds.
The crop can grow all year round in specially constructed beds partly protected from winter cold weather by the flowing water which rises from natural springs or boreholes, typically between 10 to 18 °C, and in summer from the cooler temperature of the water compared to ambient temperatures. The crop will experience physical damage if temperatures drop below 5 °C, in these situations some form of protection is required.
In order to have relatively uniform and consistent levels of PEITC (and therefore relatively uniform flavour) the crop needs stable, stress free growing conditions in terms of temperature, water supply and fertiliser. Having a water based cultivation where constant flowing water is supplied throughout the life cycle of the plant is the ideal way to maintain temperature; the flowing water cooling the crop on hot days and warming it on cold days.
By comparison a land grown crop does not have controlled temperatures. Soil and leaf temperatures can reach 40 °C on hot sunny days and in frosty weather the leaves can suffer freezing damage. These variable levels of stress will result in an irregular PEITC production by the plant and therefore deliver variable flavour.
Traditionally the source of water has been from deep mineral rich natural springs or boreholes by either natural flows or pumped, however other sources are acceptable if of a suitably high microbiological quality (target zero Ecoli, tolerance,100cfu/100ml; target zero listeria, tolerance 100cfu/100ml, zero Salmonella, zero STEC) and free from surface water contamination. The water must be of a quality appropriate to the production of a minimally processed food, meaning one that may be consumed without cooking.
The geographical positioning of the production beds will usually be dictated by the source of water and the outlet to the adjoining stream or river. The production beds are constructed with impermeable sides, on an incline of approximately 1 in 300 from the point water enters the bed, and in such a way as to preclude surface water or run-off from adjoining land. Traditionally the incoming water is channelled and regulated into the individual beds by valves, taps or simple openings in the inlet carrier wall. More modern farms have been constructed in such a manner as to allow for pressurised inlet water systems. Bed area varies depending on location and country but typically could be 10 metres wide by 100 metres long. All surface or run-off water must not be allowed to enter the site which can be achieved by ditches or bunds ahead of the fence. There must be no permanent muddy areas which could be a habitat for the mud snail.
At least annually a new crop should be established from seed to prevent the build up of viruses, some of which are seed-borne. Seeds are either sown directly onto the bed bases, or more usually sown onto compost, or similar material, in a propagation facility and raised to the first true leaf stage (approx. 3cm to 5cm high). Early summer cropping will require new crops from seed to overcome the natural flowering period which occurs at this time of year. During other months product can be harvested from re-growths, a process of allowing the harvested crop to regenerate into a new crop. With a seedling crop, the aim is to establish between 8 000 to 10 000 plants per square metre, with the harvesting density likely to be approximately 2 000. Many growers produce their own seed by allowing some crop to flower and set seed, however seed is available from seed companies.
Direct seeding can be hand or machine spread onto the production beds, equally the seedlings produced in a propagation area can be planted by hand or machine, to achieve the above densities over the bed base which is capable of retaining nutrient enriched moisture allowing for early root infiltration and anchorage.
Thereafter the incoming nutrient enhanced water is allowed to flow over the base where by the crop derives the necessary minerals and trace elements essential for growth; the flow of water is increased as the crop matures to meet the needs of the crop.
Standard horticultural fertilisers with high phosphate content are used to supplement the nutrients from the water and bed base, and are applied as appropriate depending on crop requirements.
To be traditionally grown, the crop must be grown in pure flowing water. Land grown cress which has entered the market over the last few years is grown under plastic or glass in the same way lettuce or any other salad can be grown. Though the method of production is entirely different from water grown ‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’, land grown cress is being called ‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ because it looks the similar and can be passed off as water grown ‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’. However it has not been produced in the same time honoured manner; it is not a traditionally produced speciality product, but simply one of many conventionally farmed leafy salads.
‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ is cut for sale when the crop is 10 cm to 18cm long and sold bunched, unwashed or washed in packs. The traditional bunched product is characterised by pale stems stripped of leaf and root for 5cm to 6cm and held together by a rubber band or tie, above which the leaves, target 2cm to 5cm form the ‘head’ of the bunch. The more popular washed packs are of separate stems of ‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ and are generally less mature than in the bunch, with smaller leaves, target 1cm to 3cm, arranged in a random manner to form a tangle of stems, petioles and leaves.
4.3. Description of the key elements establishing the product’s traditional character (Article 7(2) of this Regulation)
The traditional character of ‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ is enshrined in its production method and has been associated with flowing water for thousands of years; historically the crop has always been associated with aquatic production and has remained unaltered by selection and breeding in terms of morphology and flavour. Today it still looks identical to illustrations of the plant dating to Roman times.
Hippocrates, the founder of modern medicine is recorded to have chosen the site for the world’s first hospital, on the island of Kos, close to a stream suitable for cultivating the plant which he regarded as essential to the treatment of his patients. The Romans also grew ‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ in flowing water.
Nicholas Culpeper in his book Complete Herbal published in 1653 describes water cress as ‘growing in small rivulets of running water’.
The first commercial cultivation of ‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ was recorded in the UK, in 1808, and the crop was grown extensively in the clean, free-flowing streams of southern England during the 1800s. It is a method of commercial production that has remained essentially unchanged, although the method of growing ‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ in flowing water dates back to Roman times. Production in France was described by Adophle Chatin in 1866 as ‘These ditches were an immense culture of Fountain Cresson, this culture was established for several years on water sources’.
By the late 1800s ‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ was a significant source of employment and revenue, the crop was being supplied to the major conurbations throughout northern Europe. As an example in the UK the railway was extended to Alresford, Hampshire to carry upwards of 30 tonnes a week to the London markets. The restored steam railway is still known as ‘The Watercress Line’ today.
There are several cinematic recordings from the 1930’s showing ‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ growing in flowing water.
In all countries, traditional ‘Watercress’/‘Cresson de Fontaine’/‘Berros de Agua’/‘Agrião de Água’/‘Waterkers’/‘Brunnenkresse’ must be grown in flowing water. Pure spring waters rising from underground strata contain all the minerals needed for growth, however there is normally a lack of phosphorus. In northern Europe this was fortuitously available as a slow release phosphate fertiliser in the form of basic slag, a by-product of the traditional steel making process. For almost 200 years the crop was grown using pure spring waters supplemented by bed base applications of basic slag which supplied the phosphate fertiliser and trace elements the crop could not find in the flowing water. Today the steel making process has changed and basic slag is no longer available. Consequently, slow release commercial phosphate fertilizers are now used instead.
Traditionally grown, it is cut from pure flowing water, and is characterised by soft mid green, moist leaves of an oval shape. The stems are crisp and it can have some lateral roots extending from the joints of leaves to the stem. The plants have a characteristic mustard after taste; peppery, hot and slightly bitter.