Publication of an application pursuant to Article 26(2) of Regulation (EU) 2019/787 of the European Parliament and of the Council on the definition, description, presentation and labelling of spirit drinks, the use of the names of spirit drinks in the presentation and labelling of other foodstuffs, the protection of geographical indications for spirit drinks, the use of ethyl alcohol and distillates of agricultural origin in alcoholic beverages, and repealing Regulation (EC) No 110/2008

(2023/C 156/04)

This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 27 of Regulation (EU) 2019/787 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1).

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘Borzag pálinka’

EU No: PGI-HU-02845

Submitted on 23.5.2022

1.   Name to be registered

‘Borzag pálinka’

2.   Category of the spirit drink

9.	Fruit spirit

3.   Geographical indication type

Geographical Indication

4.   Description of the characteristics of the spirit drink

Physical, chemical or organoleptic characteristics

Made from the stone fruit of wild danewort or dwarf elderberry (Sambucus ebulus), which is known colloquially in Hungarian as borzag, ‘Borzag pálinka’

—	is clear and generally colourless, although the particularly strong colour components of the fruit may be transferred to the final distillate through distillation and may even produce a pale yellowish shade during resting;

—	has a maximum permitted methanol content of 1 000 g/hl of 100 % vol. alcohol and a hydrogen cyanide content not exceeding 7 g/hl of 100 % vol. alcohol;

—	has a unique, particularly pronounced character and a strong taste and aroma.

Specific characteristics (compared to spirit drinks of the same category)

—

‘Borzag pálinka’ has an alcoholic strength greater than 40 % vol., because its aromatic characteristics prevail and develop properly at a higher alcoholic strength; it has a volatile substance content of not less than 350 g/hl of 100 % vol. alcohol, which is due to the aromatic richness of the raw material, danewort, in Nógrád County.

—	The characteristic aromatic notes of ‘Borzag pálinka’ include sweetness (a pleasant flavour of chocolate, fruit and honey), spiciness, possibly a herbal character (mint, green herbs, vanilla, anise, juniper), while notes of orange peel and marzipan derived from the stone berries may also appear.

5.   Definition of the geographical area

The administrative area of Nógrád County

6.   Method of producing the spirit drink

The fruit originating in the defined area may be mashed, fermented, distilled and rested in a distillery located in the geographical area.

The main stages in the production of ‘Borzag pálinka’ are as follows:

1.	Selection and acceptance of the fruit

2.

Mashing

3.	Fermentation

4.	Distillation

5.	Resting, storage

6.	Production and treatment of the pálinka

6.1.   Selection and acceptance of the fruit

The fruit must be ripe and free of decaying grains and extraneous matter.

6.2.   Mashing

The small-grained fruit must be de-stemmed and the grains crushed, but only to the extent that the stone is not damaged (reducing the possibility of hydrogen cyanide formation). The raw material is then fed directly into (stainless steel, possibly plastic) fermentation tanks.

Depending on the consistency of the fruit, it may be necessary to add water if the berries are raisined, because only then can fermentation take place in the right form.

6.3.   Fermentation

The use of state-of-the-art technologies and auxiliary materials (controlled fermentation, cultured yeasts, pectic enzymes) is permitted and recommended. The optimum pH of the mash is between 2,8 and 3,5. The fermented mash should be distilled as soon as possible, but not later than 30 days after fermentation. If necessary, the fermented mash should be stored at 10–22 °C.

6.4.   Distillation

‘Borzag pálinka’ may be produced using any commercially available distillation equipment. Pot still technology may be specifically mentioned if the pálinka was produced using distillation equipment with a maximum capacity of 1 000 litres and a copper surface, by means of at least double fractional distillation.

6.5.   Resting, storage

After refining/distillation, ‘Borzag pálinka’ must be rested in a room protected from light, with a uniform temperature of less than 20 °C and moderate humidity, to allow the complex flavours and fragrances to blend. The duration of the resting period must be at least 60 days. During that time, no physical or chemical processes should be carried out on the pálinka.

6.6.   Production and treatment of the pálinka

The alcoholic strength of the rested distillate must be adjusted to the level suitable for consumption, by adding softened water, with a minimum of 40 % V/V, because the aromatic characteristics of ‘Borzag pálinka’ prevail and develop properly at a higher alcoholic strength. (The alcoholic strength after dilution may differ by ± 0,3 % V/V from the value stated on the label.)

The degree of alcohol suitable for consumption should be set very carefully, in several stages, by adding 5–10 % of water at a time, over a period of several days, to prevent opalescence and protect the aromatic components.

7.   Specific rules concerning packaging

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8.   Specific rules concerning labelling

In addition to the elements specified in the legislation, the labelling also contains the following:

—	‘Földrajzi jelzés’ [geographical indication] (separate from the name)

—	The name ‘Borzag pálinka’ must be displayed on all bottle labels (on the front and/or back and/or side).

9.   Description of the link between the spirit drink and its origin

The link between ‘Borzag pálinka’ and the area is based on the product’s characteristics and reputation.

The raw material for ‘Borzag pálinka’ is the stone fruit of wild danewort (dwarf elderberry) – also known in Hungarian as borzag – originating in Nógrád County.

Borzag is the popular, original name given to Sambucus ebulus L., or dwarf elderberry, by the Hungarians of Nógrád County (Pallas Nagylexikon: https://mek.oszk.hu/00000/00060/html/015/pc001524.html#10), which demonstrates clearly that ‘Borzag pálinka’ originates in Nógrád County, since it is only here that dwarf elderberry is known as borzag. In addition, Sándor Póczos states in his book on ‘Borzag pálinka’ that there is a county in Hungary, namely Nógrád, where the dwarf elderberry (borzag) is widely known, and the processing of pálinka is accepted and even natural.

Nógrád County is located in the northern part of Hungary, at the intersection of four mountain ranges (Börzsöny, Mátra, Cserhát and Karancs-Medves). In terms of its topography, the area consists of scattered mountain ranges of volcanic origin, 400-600 m in height, including patches of forest (accounting for around 40 % of the county’s territory). The area has a low natural water supply. The area’s poor, acidic, hard soil and specific climatic conditions – cool, humid and shaded areas – are favourable to growing the fruit, which is confirmed by studies. The defining characteristics of the elderberry are largely influenced by the weather. Thanks to the environmental conditions, the dwarf elderberry grown in the region is very rich in bitter ester iridoid glycosides (ebuloside, isosweroside), saponin, tannin, cyanogenic glycosides, resin, essential oil and organic acids. The bitter taste of the iridoid glycosides contributes significantly to the marzipan flavour and spicy character of ‘Borzag pálinka’. Its berries also contain a high proportion of essential oil, sugar, cyanogenic glycoside and purple dye, which account for its aromatic notes of sweetness and the occasionally pale yellowish shade of the rested pálinka.

The production of ‘Borzag pálinka’ in Nógrád County dates back centuries. In view of the centuries-old traditions, almost all commercial distilleries in Nógrád County make pálinka from dwarf elderberry. It is only in these parts (Nógrád County) that the plant is known as borzag; elsewhere, it is known as gyalogbodza [the standard Hungarian term for dwarf elderberry].

As early as the mid-1800s, this hardy, undemanding plant had become widespread in Nógrád County, as Zoltán Szerémy, who was born in Nógrádmegyer in 1861, recalls: ‘... But the land was more diligent and zealous than its farmers. It grew of its own accord a dwarf elderberry-like shrub…’ (Zoltán Szerémy: Emlékeim a régi jó időkből [My memories of the good old days] pp. 27-28. Színészek Szövetsége. Budapest, 1929).

The dwarf elderberry is part of folk medicine; it was used to make jam, and in addition to sporadic occurrences in the region inhabited by the Palóc people, most notably in Nógrád County, it was and still is used to produce pálinka. This is also demonstrated by an article in the Nógrád Megyei Hírlap [Nógrád County Gazette] entitled Forró az üst, forr a cefre [The cauldron is hot, the mash is boiling] (21 September 2004, p. 2), which mentions the three main ingredients in local pálinka-making: apples, pears and, in third place, dwarf elderberries (borzag).

Awards demonstrating the reputation of ‘Borzag pálinka’:

—	2012 – First National Contest of Pálinka made from Forest and Wild Fruit – Gold medal

—	2013 – Second National Contest of Pálinka made from Forest and Wild Fruit – Gold medal

—	2014 – Third National Contest of Pálinka made from Forest and Wild Fruit – Silver medal

—	2015 – 11th Mátra Wine and Spirit Contest – Gold medal

—	2016 – Fourth National Contest of Pálinka made from Forest and Wild Fruit – Gold medal

—	2018 – Pálinka College – Fortissimus Spiritus Award

—	2020 National Pálinka and Grape Marc Pálinka Contest – Silver medal

‘Borzag pálinka’ is also on offer at the region’s top four-star hotel as a curiosity of Nógrád County.

An increasing number of producers are entering ‘Borzag pálinka’ in the annual National Contest of Pálinka made from Forest and Wild Fruit.

Although ‘Borzag pálinka’ is established and well-known in Nógrád County, regrettably few written records demonstrating the product’s reputation are available. To fill the gap, a publication by Sándor Póczos entitled Palócok pálinkája, a borzag [Borzag (dwarf elderberry) – the pálinka of the Palóc people] appeared in 2018 and provides historical evidence in support of the product’s local renown. The publication also includes memories and descriptions of ‘Borzag pálinka’ by a number of people living in or originating from Nógrád County (also known as the Palóc people).

In his book Palócok pálinkája, a borzag, Sándor Póczos states that the reputation of ‘Borzag pálinka’ is linked to the geographical area in the following way: ‘There is another important aspect that explains the spread of the dwarf elderberry in Nógrád. It is a basic fact that if something does not work somewhere, it will not be imposed there, because it will not be good or simply will not yield the expected result. Perhaps because the raw material was available in relatively large quantities and did not require any particular investment or care, it is likely that the production of “Borzag pálinka” was also attempted in other parts of the country, but without any success. As there were no real marked differences in the technology used to produce distilled spirits at the time, environmental factors alone may account for the specificity of “Borzag pálinka” from Nógrád County. We can rightly assume that it is the above-average affinity of the land, climate and, last but not least, the Palóc people, that elevates this pálinka speciality to a value far beyond the county.’

Product specification – publication reference

https://gi.kormany.hu/foldrajzi-arujelzok

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(1)  OJ L 130, 17.5.2019, p. 1.