Publication of an application for approval of an amendment, which is not minor, to a product specification pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2022/C 72/10)

This publication confers the right to oppose the amendment application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) within three months from the date of this publication.

APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF AN AMENDMENT TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION OF PROTECTED DESIGNATIONS OF ORIGIN/PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS WHICH IS NOT MINOR

Application for approval of an amendment in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012

‘Taleggio’

EU No: PDO-IT-0025-AM01 –3 August 2020

PDO (X) PGI ( )

1.   Applicant group and legitimate interest

Consorzio Tutela Taleggio [‘Taleggio’ cheese protection association]

Via Roggia Vignola 9

22047 Treviglio (BG)

ITALIA

Email: info@taleggio.it; Certified Email: consorziotutelataleggio@legalmail.it.

The Consorzio Tutela Taleggio is made up of ‘Taleggio’ cheese producers and is authorised to submit an amendment application under Article 13(1) of Decree No 12511 of the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policy of 14 October 2013.

2.   Member State or third country

Italy

3.   Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)

☐	Name of product

☒	Description of product

☒	Geographical area

☒	Proof of origin

☒	Method of production

☒

Link

☒	Labelling and packaging

☒	Other: References to legislation relating to registration; references to inspection body added to the specification.

4.   Type of amendment(s)

☐	Amendment to product specification of a registered PDO or PGI not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

☒	Amendment to product specification of registered PDO or PGI for which a Single Document (or equivalent) has not been published not to be qualified as minor in accordance with the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

5.   Amendment(s)

It should be noted that the ‘Taleggio’ PDO product specification is being amended mainly to reorganise the specification in accordance with Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 and consolidate it in a single document.

‘Taleggio’ was registered as a PDO in Regulation (EC) No 1107/96 of 12 June 1996, in accordance with Article 17 of Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92. The product was registered on the basis of the following documents: the Presidential Decree of 15 September 1988 recognising the designation of origin in Italy; a 12-page document containing the elements of the specification laid down in Article 4(2)(a) to (i) of Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92; and the summary sheet.

Characteristics of the product

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(b) of the specification in force and point 3.2 of the single document. The amendment consists in a formal reorganisation. Tolerances have been laid down for the weight of the cheese and the height of the heel. A sentence has been inserted specifying how the rind is treated. A ban on selling the frozen product has been added.

Current version:

‘The description of the foodstuff is as follows:

Soft, raw-paste table cheese made exclusively from whole cow’s milk.

The physical characteristics of “Taleggio” cheese are as follows:

(1)	Shape: a rectangular block with sides measuring 18 to 20 cm.

(2)	Heel: straight, measuring 4-7 cm with flat faces and sides measuring 18-20 cm.

(3)	Average weight: 1,7 to 2,2 kg per cheese, which may vary up or down for both characteristics depending on the technical conditions during processing; the variation may not in any case exceed 10 %.

(4)	Rind: thin with a soft texture and natural pink colour (L ≤ 77 a/b ≥ 0,2 on the Tristimulus colorimeter) with characteristic microflora. No treatment of the rind is allowed.

(5)	Paste: smooth texture with only a few tiny, irregularly distributed eyes. The cheese is generally firm but softer in the part immediately beneath the rind.

(6)	Colour of the paste: white to straw yellow.

(7)	Taste: distinctive, slightly aromatic.

(8)	Chemical properties: minimum fat content in dry matter 48 %; minimum dry matter 46 %; maximum water content 54 %; maximum 14 mg furosine per 100 g protein.’

This has been replaced by:

‘Article 2 - Characteristics of the product

Cheese benefitting from the “Taleggio” PDO must have the following characteristics:

(1)	Shape: a rectangular block with flat faces and a straight heel.

(2)	Size: width of the flat surfaces from 18 to 22 cm, heel height 4 to 7 cm with slight variations depending on the technical production conditions. Weight: ranges from 1,5 kg to 2,5 kg as measured at the end of the minimum maturation period of 35 days. (3)

(3)	A tolerance of ±10 % of the maximum and minimum values is allowed for the height of the heel.

(4)	Rind: thin with a soft texture and natural pink colour (L ≤ 77 a/b ≥ 0,2 on the Tristimulus colorimeter) with characteristic microflora. No treatment of the rind is allowed other than with water and salt.

(5)	Paste: smooth texture with only a few tiny, irregularly distributed eyes. The cheese is generally firm but softer in the part immediately beneath the rind.

(6)	Colour of the paste: white to straw yellow.

(7)	Taste: distinctive, sweet and aromatic with a balanced flavour; there are notes of milk and an aftertaste of truffle on the palate.

(8)	Chemical characteristics: minimum fat content of dry matter of 48 %; minimum dry matter of 46 %; maximum water content of 54 %; maximum 14 mg furosine per 100 g protein.

The product may not be released for consumption if it is or has previously been frozen.’

Reason

The description includes the same information but it has been reorganised so as to make it easier to read.

In addition, the current specification lays down a tolerance of ±10 % as regards the minimum and maximum weights of the cheese. This has been directly incorporated into the weight range by adjusting the minimum and maximum values accordingly.

The current version states that the values ‘may vary up or down (for both the weight and for the heel) for both characteristics’ without specifying which characteristics, with a risk of leading to ambiguous interpretations. The intention of the new version is therefore to make it clear that the characteristics referred to are the height of the heel and the weight.

It has been specified that the rind may only be treated with water and salt.

Specifications have been introduced to better define the taste.

A specific instruction has been added to prevent the product being sold frozen.

Geographical area

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(c) of the specification and point 4 of the single document and consists in an adjustment of the geographical area to take account of administrative changes

Current version:

This has been replaced by:

Reason:

The boundaries of the geographical area remain unchanged. The production area has been defined taking account of administrative changes that have taken place. The administrative provinces of Lecco, Lodi, Monza and Brianza, and Verbano-Cusio-Ossola have been added. These were established after the ‘Taleggio’ designation of origin was recognised. The province of Lecco includes municipalities that were previously part of the provinces of Bergamo and Como. The province of Lodi includes municipalities that were previously part of the province of Milan. The province of Monza and Brianza includes municipalities that were previously part of the province of Milan and, finally, the province of Verbano-Cusio-Ossola was previously part of the province of Novara.

In addition, all the operations which must be carried out in the defined geographical area have been clearly stated.

Proof of origin

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(c) of the specification in force.

Current version:

‘The following paragraphs of the current specification relating to checks:

—	For the purpose of providing more information, we wish to point out those elements of this point (c) that show that the conditions laid down in Article 2(4) of Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92 have been met.

—	In particular, it is noted that there is a defined area for milk production. Only livestock on farms situated in this defined area are entitled to provide milk for processing into “Taleggio”.

—	In particular, all relevant data are collected in respect of the milk producers. These producers are identified in lists drawn up on a monthly basis, which are officially filed and stamped.

—	This makes it easy to trace the milk back to the herd that produced it and the farm on which it is located. The raw material is regularly checked to ensure that it is suitable in terms of health and hygiene and that it has the necessary characteristics for processing into cheese.’

This has been replaced by:

Reason

Outdated references to legislation have been deleted in the proposed version and it has been brought into line with the standard wording of all specifications.

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(h) of the specification in force.

Current version:

‘The “Taleggio” cheese brand, in accordance with Article 5 of Presidential Decree No 667 of 5 August 1955, consists of four circles arranged in a square. The circles contain the following letters and numbers:

the letter T in the 1st circle (top left);

the letter T in the 2nd circle (top right);

the letter T in the 3rd circle (bottom right);

the number of the “Taleggio” producer in the 4th circle (bottom left).

The brand is made of food-grade plastic and is impressed on a flat face of the cheese after it is turned over for the second time and before salting in order that the mark is clearly visible even when the cheese is mature.’

This has been replaced by:

‘The “Taleggio” PDO logo is stamped on a flat face of the cheese after it is turned over for the second time and before salting in order that the mark is clearly visible even when the cheese is mature and thus when it is released for consumption.

The stamp is made of food-grade plastic and consists of four circles arranged in a square. The circles contain the following letters and numbers (Figure 1):

the letter T in the 1st circle (top left);

the letter T in the 2nd circle (top right);

the letter T in the 3rd circle (bottom right);

the identification number of the dairy producing the “Taleggio” in the 4th circle (bottom left).

Figure 1’

Reason

Outdated references to legislation have been deleted.

The term ‘brand’ has been replaced by the word ‘logo’ to denote the symbol which is stamped on the cheese and by the word ‘stamp’ when referring to the plastic tool which reproduces the logo in relief.

The stamp is placed on the surface of the cheese when it is inserted in the mould, so that the logo is stamped on to the flat face of the cheese as it is being processed.

Method of production

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(e) of the specification in force. In addition, part of Article 6 of the specification has been added to this article, where it is more appropriate, and set out in point 3.3 of the single document.

The sequence of the processing steps has been rewritten and some details added.

Current version:

‘As regards the description of the method of obtaining “Taleggio” cheese, we can state that the production and processing methods involve a series of steps, which can be summarised as follows:

Preparing the starter culture

Coagulation of the milk

Breaking up the curds

Placing in the moulds

Heat treatment

Turning in the moulds

Salting

Turning over

Maturing’

This has been replaced by:

‘Article 5 - Method of production

To ensure that they operate economically, it is crucial for holdings to be able to obtain as much feed as possible from within the holding, where possible; however, due to the increasingly unpredictable climate (periods with heavy rainfall which delay or prevent sowing alternating with periods of severe drought which reduce harvests), the level of production in recent years has been highly variable and often lower than expected, given the high genetic quality and relatively high dietary demands of the livestock. The preference is therefore to guarantee that at least 50 % of the dry matter in the cattle feed comes from the area of origin; this is purely a precautionary measure and complies with the regulations. This percentage still guarantees that the link between the cattle’s diet and the characteristics of the milk, which make it suitable for making into “Taleggio”, is maintained. It also makes it possible to preserve the rumen microflora of the livestock with high genetic characteristics, thus influencing the quality of the raw material. The production and maturing of “Taleggio” cheese must take place in the production area in accordance with the following practices:

Preparation of the starter culture or selected yeast

Coagulation of the milk

Cutting the curds

Placing in the moulds

Stamping

Heat treatment

Turning in the moulds

Salting

Turning over

Maturing’

Reason

An introductory sentence has been added defining more clearly the use of feed, as indicated by Regulation (EU) No 664/2014; this aspect is set out in point 3.3 of the single document.

The requirement that at least 50 % of the feed must come from the area of origin still guarantees that the link between the cattle’s diet and the characteristics of the milk is maintained. It does not, for example, affect the fat and protein content that makes the milk suitable for processing into ‘Taleggio’.

The indication ‘selected yeast’ and the ‘stamping’ phase have been added to the outline of the process. They are already included in the description, but not specifically referred to in the process flow chart. ‘Breaking up’ has been replaced by ‘cutting’ the curds (they are synonymous).

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(e) of the specification in force and point 3.3 of the single document.

The description of the raw material has been rearranged.

Current version:

This has been replaced by:

Reason

The description of the raw material has been rearranged. In the current version of the specification, pasteurisation of milk is given as an option. It is implied that if pasteurisation is not carried out, the milk may be used as it is. In the amended version, this latter possibility, i.e. using raw milk, which was already allowed, is the preferred option.

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(e) of the specification in force. Each step is described and the length of time that the curds are left to sit has been removed. It is proposed that the moulding and stamping steps be combined.

Current version:

This has been replaced by:

Reason

The stages of processing have been better defined and it is proposed that the indication of the length of time that the curds are left to sit and the number of times they are broken up be deleted, as these may vary depending on the processing conditions. In particular, thanks to both technological developments and the improvement of the starter cultures used, it is the cheese-makers who, based on their experience, decide on the optimal length of time that the curds need to sit in order to achieve a good result.

With the requested amendment, moulding and stamping are carried out at the same time: the curds are placed in moulds and the mark of origin is stamped on a flat face during this moulding stage, in order that the mark stays more clearly visible on the cheese. It has been found during processing that the mark of origin is more stable and visible at the checking stage if it is stamped during moulding.

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(e) of the specification in force. The amendment concerns the heat treatment stage.

Current version:

This has been replaced by:

Reason

The temperature range at which heat treatment can be carried out has been increased and the minimum percentage for the humidity of the storeroom has been lowered.

The heat treatment sometimes takes place in fairly large storerooms that are opened and closed frequently. It is therefore difficult to maintain constant temperature and humidity levels as these are often influenced by external climatic conditions and by the moisture in items entering the room.

Please note that this change does not affect the characteristics of the end product.

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(e) of the specification in force. The amendment concerns the salting stage.

Current version:

This has been replaced by:

Reason

The wording of the sentence on salting has been simplified.

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(e) of the specification in force. The amendment concerns the maturation stage.

Current version:

This has been replaced by:

Reason

It is proposed that the minimum temperature for maturing the cheese be lowered and the minimum percentage of humidity be set more precisely.

Since maturing takes place both in natural environments (traditional caves) and in storerooms that are opened and closed frequently, it is difficult to maintain constant temperature and humidity levels as these are often influenced by external climatic conditions, especially during the hottest periods of the year.

It may therefore be necessary to lower the storeroom temperature by a degree in order to ensure that the maturation conditions remain suitable; the actual moisture content of the product is also linked to seasonal variations. Maturation in natural caves or in underground storerooms using the recirculation of mountain air is also influenced by external climatic conditions.

These are thus necessary minor changes that do not affect the characteristics of the end product.

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(e) of the specification in force. The requirement to use a cloth during maturation has been removed.

Current version:

This has been replaced by:

Reason:

The requirement to use a cloth has been removed as technological changes over the years have made it possible to use different materials that are easier to manage from a hygiene point of view, leading to producers favouring the replacement of cloths with brushes, which are more effective for cleaning the rind with water and salt during the maturing process. The task is always carried out by expert staff, in accordance with the traditional production process.

Link

The amendment concerns point 5 of the single document and Article 4(2)(d) and (f) of the specification in force.

The paragraphs previously under Article 4(2)(d) and (f) of the specification currently in force have been revised and moved, or deleted, to formulate the new article.

The article on the link, which has been reworked and corrected, is set out below.

‘Article 6 - Link with the geographical area

The qualities of “Taleggio” are essentially due to its geographical environment, as the cheese owes its unique and inimitable qualities to human and natural factors typical of the area where it is produced, processed and matured.

The name “Taleggio” refers to a specific geographical area of Lombardy spanning the valleys of Valsassina and Val Taleggio, containing the village of the same name.

Production of the cheese spread throughout the area defined in point 4 thanks to the practice of transhumance, as animals and farmers (“bergamini” [local shepherds]) would come down from the mountains to the plain for the winter.

The factors that demonstrate the link between the quality of the product and the geographical area of origin are largely linked to the producers’ know-how and cheese-making tradition, the particular salting conditions adopted and the maturing technique; also important are the geographical conditions of the area, i.e. its climate, forage crops and the dominant irrigation system.

Climatic and agrozootechnical factors influence the milk produced, which is suitable for the specific type of cheese-making and maturing, and the formation and development of the milk’s microflora.

The quality of the milk to be processed is closely linked to the PDO product’s area of origin, where the growth of fodder (hay, cereals, protein/oil crops, etc.) is abundant thanks to the extensive irrigation system.

Today, the cheese is still produced using only milk, rennet and salt and it is not permitted in any way to treat the rind or to add additives or adjuvants of any kind, in accordance with traditional processing techniques. Furthermore, wood is still widely used both for transporting the “Taleggio” cheese (crates) and for maturing it (wooden boards). This material allows the cheese to breathe and release the excess whey, allowing it to mature normally, in the same way it was done more than a thousand years ago.

There is no substitute for the cheese-makers’ traditional knowledge, passed down through the centuries: this know-how is critical not just at the stage of processing the milk, but also at the later stages.

Salting is carried out dry and/or in brine; it is an operation that is critical to the success of the “Taleggio”, which typically matures centripetally.

The surface of “Taleggio” cheeses is home to a mixed natural microflora that invariably combines Schizomycetes belonging to the family of Micrococcaceae with Eumycetes, including Geotrichum candidum, Mucor racemosus, Penicillium frequentans and yeasts under the genera Torulaspora and Saccharomyces.

The cheese therefore matures due to the activity of this microflora, which comes from the environment, both at the production (cheese dairy) and the maturing (cave or storeroom) stage, lending the “Taleggio” its typical physical, chemical and organoleptic characteristics, in particular the pink colour of the rind; the texture, which is generally firm but softer in the part immediately beneath the rind; and the taste, which is distinctive, sweet and aromatic with a balanced flavour, notes of milk and an aftertaste of truffle on the palate. Native microbial species are selected in the maturing environment thanks to the temperature and humidity, and the presence of the product itself. The cheese matures cyclically and develops a microflora on its surface that performs the following important functions:

(a)	gives texture to the rind, which has formed in the first place as a result of the natural hardening of the cheese upon contact with air, creating a “felt” attached to the paste (Geotrichum and yeasts);

(b)	produces the characteristic rosé colour thanks to the micrococci;

(c)	encourages proteolysis, for which mainly the Penicillium and Mucor genera, and to a lesser extent yeasts and Micrococcaceae; are responsible;

(d)	encourages lipolysis, mainly due to the activity of the Geotrichum genus and yeasts, besides Penicillium and Mucor.

This complex enzymatic activity of the rind’s microflora is due to the centripetal pattern of maturing, i.e. from the outside in.

The other stages of processing, from the ingredients used (milk, rennet and cultures), to the temperature and humidity, through to salting and “salinatura” (washing with water and salt), also contribute to the characterisation of “Taleggio” cheese. ’

Labelling

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(h) and point 3.6 of the single document.

Current version:

This has been replaced by:

Packaging

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(h) of the specification and point 3.5 of the single document.

Current version:

This has been replaced by:

Reason:

The first part, relating to the mark, has been redrafted for greater clarity.

As regards portioning, the rules in the current specification, which were authorised when the PDO was registered, are to remain unchanged.

In the interests of consumer protection, in order to guarantee the authenticity of pre-packaged and portioned ‘Taleggio’ PDO cheese when placed on the market, portioning and subsequent packaging must take place in the defined geographical area. This is to guarantee that the ‘Taleggio’ PDO is genuine, as portioning and subsequent packaging would mean the markings stamped on a whole cheese identifying it as ‘Taleggio’ PDO would no longer be visible.

It has been decided to delete the part relating to the packaging of whole cheeses and the reference to retail sale (take away), since these are already regulated by mandatory rules and are activities subject to supervision by the protection association which are not covered by the product specification.

The following sentence has been deleted: ‘In addition to its members, authorised packagers registered with the protection association, too, may package “Taleggio” PDO cheese. However, if they are located outside the area of origin, they may package only whole “Taleggio” cheeses.’

Other

References to legislation relating to registration

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(a) of the specification, which in the new specification becomes Article 1, and it is added under point 3.2 of the single document.

Current version:

This has been replaced by:

Reason

The new wording allows outdated references to legislation to be removed. Furthermore, the product description of ‘Taleggio’ currently in Article 4(2)(b) has been added and it has been made explicit that the milk may be raw or pasteurised, as already stated in Article 4(2)(e) of the current specification.

Checks

The amendment concerns Article 4(2)(i) of the specification in force

The article on checks has been rewritten and reformulated in accordance with the provisions of Articles 36 and 37 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012.

The article on checks is set out below:

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘Taleggio’

EU No: PDO-IT-0025-AM01 –3 August 2020

PDO (X) PGI ( )

1.   Name(s) [of PDO or PGI]

‘Taleggio’

2.   Member State or third country

Italy

3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product [as in Annex XI]

Class 1.3. Cheeses

3.2.   Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

The designation ‘Taleggio’ PDO is assigned exclusively to a soft, raw-paste table cheese made exclusively from whole raw or pasteurised cow’s milk, from cows reared in the geographical area of origin, rennet, salt and lactic starter cultures, which meets the conditions and requirements listed below.

Cheese benefitting from the ‘Taleggio’ PDO must have the following characteristics:

Shape: a rectangular block with flat faces and a straight heel.

Size: width of the flat faces from 18 to 22 cm, heel height 4 to 7 cm with slight variations depending on the technical production conditions.

Weight: ranges from 1,5 kg to 2,5 kg as measured at the end of the minimum maturation period of 35 days.

A tolerance of ±10 % of the maximum and minimum values is allowed for the height of the heel.

Rind: thin with a soft texture and natural pink colour (L ≤ 77 a/b ≥ 0,2 on the Tristimulus colorimeter) with characteristic microflora. No treatment of the rind is allowed other than with water and salt.

Paste: smooth texture with only a few tiny, irregularly distributed eyes. The cheese is generally firm but softer in the part immediately beneath the rind.

Colour of the paste: white to straw yellow.

Taste: distinctive, sweet and aromatic with a balanced flavour; there are notes of milk and an aftertaste of truffle on the palate.

Chemical characteristics: minimum fat content of dry matter of 48 %; minimum dry matter of 46 %; maximum water content of 54 %; maximum 14 mg furosine per 100 g protein.

The product may not be released for consumption if it is or has previously been frozen.

3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

On an annual basis, at least 50 % of the dry matter in the cows’ feed must come from the area of origin. The cattle feed consists of cereals, dry and green fodder and silage. It may be supplemented with concentrates and/or protein cattle-cake. The use of mineral and vitamin supplements is authorised.

To ensure that they operate economically, it is crucial for holdings to be able to obtain as much feed as possible from within the holding, where possible; however, due to the increasingly unpredictable climate (periods with heavy rainfall which delay or prevent sowing alternating with periods of severe drought which reduce harvests), the level of production in recent years has been highly variable and often lower than expected, given the high genetic quality and relatively high dietary demands of the livestock. The preference is therefore to guarantee that at least 50 % of the dry matter in the cattle feed comes from the area of origin; this is purely a precautionary measure and complies with the regulations.

This percentage still guarantees that the link between the cattle’s diet and the characteristics of the milk, which make it suitable for making into ‘Taleggio’, is maintained. It also makes it possible to preserve the rumen microflora of the livestock with high genetic characteristics, thus influencing the quality of the raw material.

‘Taleggio’ PDO cheese is made from raw or pasteurised cow’s milk, rennet, salt and lactic starter cultures.

3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the identified geographical area

All the stages in the production process, from rearing the cattle to milking, cheese-making and maturing, must take place within the geographical area defined in point 4.

3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

In the interests of consumer protection, in order to guarantee the authenticity of pre-packaged and portioned ‘Taleggio’ PDO cheese when placed on the market, portioning and subsequent packaging must take place in the geographical area defined in point 4.

It should be noted that the protection association identifies producer members with numbers from 1 to 299, and cheese maturer members with numbers from 301 to 499.

This is necessary because the markings that identify a whole cheese as ‘Taleggio’ PDO are lost or are not visible on the portioned cheese, so the origin of the pre-packaged product has to be guaranteed.

Portions of cheese with the ‘Taleggio’ PDO may be packaged outside the area of origin only at the place of retail sale and at the request of the consumer (by the portion), or, also at the place of retail sale, portions of cheese may be packaged for direct sale (for takeaway).

‘In the interests of consumer protection, in order to guarantee the authenticity of pre-packaged and portioned ‘Taleggio’ PDO cheese when placed on the market, portioning and subsequent packaging must take place in the geographical area.

3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

When placed on the market, ‘Taleggio’ PDO whole cheeses must bear a mark of origin.

The ‘Taleggio’ PDO logo is stamped on a flat face of the cheese after it is turned over for the second time and before salting in order that the mark is clearly visible even when the cheese is mature and thus when it is released for consumption.

The stamp is made of food-grade plastic and consists of four circles arranged in a square. The circles contain the following letters and numbers (Figure 1):

the letter T in the 1st circle (top left);

the letter T in the 2nd circle (top right);

the letter T in the 3rd circle (bottom right);

the identification number of the dairy producing the ‘Taleggio’ in the 4th circle (bottom left).

Figure 1

When released for consumption, the packaging of all ‘Taleggio’ PDO cheese, whole and/or in portions, must bear the name ‘Taleggio’.

It must also bear the logo shown below in Figure 2, which has a red inner border, a white intermediate border and a green outer border. The acronym CTT is in black at the centre and the number assigned by the protection association to the company holding the trade mark may be put below this. The logo may also be printed in a single colour.

Figure 2

This logo must be followed by a reference to the regulation relating to the registration of the ‘Taleggio’ PDO, namely ‘Regulation (EC) No 1107/96’. The above logo has been registered in accordance with the law.

4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

The area where cheese with the ‘Taleggio’ PDO is produced, matured and portioned comprises the entire administrative territory of the provinces of Bergamo, Brescia, Como, Lecco, Cremona, Milan, Lodi, Monza and Brianza, Pavia, Novara, Verbano-Cusio-Ossola and Treviso.

5.   Link with the geographical area

The qualities of ‘Taleggio’ are essentially due to its geographical environment, as the cheese owes its unique and inimitable qualities to human and natural factors typical of the area where it is produced, processed and matured.

The name ‘Taleggio’ refers to a specific geographical area of Lombardy spanning the valleys of Valsassina and Val Taleggio, containing the village of the same name.

Production of the cheese spread throughout the area defined in point 4 thanks to the practice of transhumance, as animals and farmers (‘bergamini’ [local shepherds]) would come down from the mountains to the plain for the winter.

The factors that demonstrate the link between the quality of the product and the geographical area of origin are largely linked to the producers’ know-how and cheese-making tradition, the particular salting conditions adopted and the maturing technique; also important are the geographical conditions of the area, i.e. its climate, forage crops and the dominant irrigation system.

Climatic and agrozootechnical factors influence the milk produced, which is suitable for the specific type of cheese-making and maturing, and the formation and development of the milk’s microflora.

The quality of the milk to be processed is closely linked to the PDO product’s area of origin, where the growth of fodder (hay, cereals, protein/oil crops, etc.) is abundant thanks to the extensive irrigation system.

Today, the cheese is still produced using only milk, rennet and salt and it is not permitted in any way to treat the rind or to add additives or adjuvants of any kind, in accordance with traditional processing techniques. Furthermore, wood is still widely used both for transporting the ‘Taleggio’ cheese (crates) and for maturing it (wooden boards). This material allows the cheese to breathe and release the excess whey, allowing it to mature normally, in the same way it was done more than a thousand years ago.

There is no substitute for the cheese-makers’ traditional knowledge, passed down through the centuries: this know-how is critical not just at the stage of processing the milk, but also at the later stages.

Salting is carried out dry and/or in brine; it is an operation that is critical to the success of the ‘Taleggio’, which typically matures centripetally.

The surface of ‘Taleggio’ cheeses is home to a mixed natural microflora that invariably combines Schizomycetes belonging to the family of Micrococcaceae with Eumycetes, including Geotrichum candidum, Mucor racemosus, Penicillium frequentans and yeasts under the genera Torulaspora and Saccharomyces.

The cheese therefore matures due to the activity of this microflora, which comes from the environment, both at the production (cheese dairy) and the maturing (cave or storeroom) stage, lending the ‘Taleggio’ its typical physical, chemical and organoleptic characteristics, in particular the pink colour of the rind; the texture, which is generally firm but softer in the part immediately beneath the rind; and the taste, which is distinctive, sweet and aromatic with a balanced flavour, notes of milk and an aftertaste of truffle on the palate. Native microbial species are selected in the maturing environment thanks to the temperature and humidity, and the presence of the product itself. The cheese matures cyclically and develops a microflora on its surface that performs the following important functions:

(a)	gives texture to the rind, which has formed in the first place as a result of the natural hardening of the cheese upon contact with air, creating a ‘felt’ attached to the paste (Geotrichum and yeasts);

(b)	produces the characteristic rosé colour thanks to the micrococci;

(c)	encourages proteolysis, for which mainly the Penicillium and Mucor genera, and to a lesser extent yeasts and Micrococcaceae; are responsible;

(d)	encourages lipolysis, mainly due to the activity of the Geotrichum genus and yeasts, besides Penicillium and Mucor.

This complex enzymatic activity of the rind’s microflora is due to the centripetal pattern of maturing, i.e. from the outside in.

The other stages of processing, from the ingredients used (milk, rennet and cultures), to the temperature and humidity, through to salting and ‘salinatura’ (washing with water and salt), also contribute to the characterisation of ‘Taleggio’ cheese.

Reference to publication of the product specification

(second subparagraph of Article 6(1) of this Regulation)

The consolidated text of the product specification is available on the following Internet: http://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/3335

Or alternatively:

by going directly to the home page of the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policy (www.politicheagricole.it) and clicking on ‘Qualità’ (at the top right of the screen), then on ‘Prodotti DOP IGP STG’ (on the left-hand side of the screen) and finally on ‘Disciplinari di Produzione all’esame dell’UE’.

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(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.