‘12.

Subheading 2207 20 covers mixtures of ethyl alcohol used as raw material to produce fuels for motor vehicles of an alcoholic strength by volume of 50 % or higher and denatured with one or more of the following substances: (a) automotive petrol (conforming to EN 228); (b) tert-butyl ethyl ether (ethyl tert-butylether, ETBE); (c) methyl tert-butylether (MTBE); (d) 2-methylpropan-2-ol (tert-butyl alcohol, tertiary butyl alcohol, TBA); (e) 2-methylpropan-1-ol (2-methyl-1-propanol, isobutanol); (f) propan-2-ol (isopropyl alcohol, 2-propanol, isopropanol). The denaturants referred to in points (e) and (f) of the first paragraph must be used in combination with at least one of the denaturants listed in points (a) to (d) of the first paragraph.’

ANNEX

Table 1 of Appendix 9 of Annex I to Regulation (EU) No 582/2011 is replaced by the following:

---

(1)  “NOx OTL” monitoring requirements as set out in Table 1 and 2 of Annex X.

(2)  “PM OTL” monitoring requirements as set out in Table 1 of Annex X.

(3)  “Performance monitoring” requirements as set out in point 2.1.1 of Annex X.

(4)  Reagent quality and consumption “phase-in” requirements as set out in points 7.1.1.1 and 8.4.1.1 of Annex XIII.

(5)  Reagent quality and consumption “general” requirements as set out in points 7.1.1 and 8.4.1 of Annex XIII.

(6)  “CO OTL” monitoring requirements as set out in Table 2 of Annex X.

(7)  IUPR “Phase-in” requirements as set out in points 6.4.4, 6.5.5 and 6.5.5.1 of Annex X.

(8)  IUPR “General” requirements as set out in Section 6 of Annex X.

(9)  For positive-ignition engines and vehicles equipped with such engines.

(10)  For compression-ignition engines and vehicles equipped with such engines.

(11)  Only applicable to positive-ignition engines and vehicles equipped with such engines.’

ANNEX

ANNEX

Annex I to Regulation (EC) No 881/2002 is amended as follows:

(1)

The following entries shall be added under the heading ‘Legal persons, groups and entities’: (a) ‘Al Mouakaoune Biddam (alias (a) Les Signataires par le Sang; (b) Ceux Qui Signent avec le Sang; (c) Those Who Sign in Blood). Address: Mali. Date of designation referred to in Article 2a(4)(b): 2.6.2014.’ (b) ‘Al Moulathamoun (alias (a) Les Enturbannés; (b) The Veiled. Address: (a) Algeria; (b) Mali; (c) Niger). Other information: Active in the Sahel/Sahara. Date of designation referred to in Article 2a(4)(b): 2.6.2014.’ (c) ‘Al Mourabitoun (alias (a) Les Sentinelles; (b) The Sentinels). Address: Mali. Other information: Active in the Sahel/Sahara region. Date of designation referred to in Article 2a(4)(b): 2.6.2014.’

(2)

The following entries under the heading ‘Natural persons’ are deleted: (a) ‘Jainal Antel Sali (jr.) (alias (a) Abu Solaiman, (b) Abu Solayman, (c) Apong Solaiman, (d) Apung). Date of birth: 1.6.1965. Place of birth: Barangay Lanote, Bliss, Isabela, Basilan, the Philippines. Nationality: Filipino. Other information: Reportedly deceased in 2007. Date of designation referred to in Article 2a (4) (b): 6.12.2005.’ (b) ‘Mohammad Ilyas Kashmiri (alias (a) Muhammad Ilyas Kashmiri, (b) Elias al-Kashmiri, (c) Ilyas Naib Amir). Title: Mufti. Address: Thathi Village, Samahni, Bhimber District, Pakistan-administered Kashmir. Date of birth: (a) 2.1.1964, (b) 10.2.1964. Place of birth: Bhimber, Samahani Valley, Pakistan-administered Kashmir. Other information: (a) Former title: Maulana. (b) Reportedly deceased in Pakistan on 11 June 2011. Date of designation referred to in Article 2a(4)(b): 6.8.2010.’

(3)

The entry ‘Abu Mohammed Al-Jawlani (alias (a) Abu Mohamed al-Jawlani, (b) Abu Muhammad al-Jawlani, (c) Abu Mohammed al-Julani, (d) Abu Mohammed al-Golani, (e) Abu Muhammad al-Golani, (f) Abu Muhammad Aljawlani, (g) Muhammad al-Jawlani, (h) Shaykh al-Fatih; (i) Al Fatih. Date of birth: Between 1975 and 1979. Place of birth: Syria. Nationality: Syrian. Address: In Syria as at June 2013. Date of designation referred to in Article 2a (4) (b): 24.7.2013.’ under the heading ‘Natural persons’ shall be replaced by the following: ‘Abu Mohammed Al-Jawlani (alias (a) Abu Mohamed al-Jawlani, (b) Abu Muhammad al-Jawlani, (c) Abu Mohammed al-Julani, (d) Abu Mohammed al-Golani, (e) Abu Muhammad al-Golani, (f) Abu Muhammad Aljawlani, (g) Muhammad al-Jawlani, (h) Shaykh al-Fatih; (i) Al Fatih). Date of birth: Between 1975 and 1979. Place of birth: Syria. Nationality: Syrian. Address: In Syria as at June 2013. Other information: Since January 2012, he is the Leader of Al-Nusrah Front for the People of the Levant. Date of designation referred to in Article 2a (4) (b): 24.7.2013.’

(4)

The entry ‘Doku Khamatovich Umarov (alias Умаров Доку Хаматович). Date of birth: 12.5.1964. Place of birth: Kharsenoy Village, Shatoyskiy (Sovetskiy) District, Chechenskaya Respublika, Russian Federation Nationality: (a) Russian, (b) USSR (until 1991). Other information: (a) Resides in the Russian Federation as at November 2010; (b) International arrest warrant issued in the year 2000. Date of designation referred to in Article 2a(4)(b): 10.3.2011.’ under the heading ‘Natural persons’ shall be replaced by the following: ‘Doku Khamatovich Umarov (alias Умаров Доку Хаматович). Date of birth: 12.5.1964. Place of birth: Kharsenoy Village, Shatoyskiy (Sovetskiy) District, Chechenskaya Respublika, Russian Federation. Nationality: (a) Russian, (b) USSR (until 1991). Other information: (a) Resides in the Russian Federation as at November 2010; (b) International arrest warrant issued in the year 2000; (c) Reportedly deceased as of April 2014. Date of designation referred to in Article 2a(4)(b): 10.3.2011.’

(5)

The entry ‘Al-Qaida in Iraq (alias (a) AQI, (b) al-Tawhid, (c) the Monotheism and Jihad Group, (d) Qaida of the Jihad in the Land of the Two Rivers, (e) Al-Qaida of Jihad in the Land of the Two Rivers, (f) The Organization of Jihad's Base in the Country of the Two Rivers, (g) The Organization Base of Jihad/Country of the Two Rivers, (h) The Organization Base of Jihad/Mesopotamia, (i) Tanzim Qa'idat Al-Jihad fi Bilad al-Rafidayn, (j) Tanzeem Qa'idat al Jihad/Bilad al Raafidaini, (k) Jama'at Al-Tawhid Wa'al-Jihad, (l) JTJ, (m) Islamic State of Iraq, (n) ISI, (o) al-Zarqawi network, (p) Jabhat al Nusrah, (q) Jabhet al-Nusra, (r) Al-Nusrah Front, (s) The Victory Front, (t) Islamic State in Iraq and the Levant). Date of designation referred to in Article 2a (4) (b): 18.10.2004.’ under the heading ‘Legal persons, groups and entities’ shall be replaced by the following: ‘Al-Qaida in Iraq (alias (a) AQI, (b) al-Tawhid, (c) the Monotheism and Jihad Group, (d) Qaida of the Jihad in the Land of the Two Rivers, (e) Al-Qaida of Jihad in the Land of the Two Rivers, (f) The Organization of Jihad's Base in the Country of the Two Rivers, (g) The Organization Base of Jihad/Country of the Two Rivers, (h) The Organization Base of Jihad/Mesopotamia, (i) Tanzim Qa'idat Al-Jihad fi Bilad al-Rafidayn, (j) Tanzeem Qa'idat al Jihad/Bilad al Raafidaini, (k) Jama'at Al-Tawhid Wa'al-Jihad, (l) JTJ, (m) Islamic State of Iraq, (n) ISI, (o) al-Zarqawi network, (p) Islamic State in Iraq and the Levant). Date of designation referred to in Article 2a (4) (b): 18.10.2004.’

ANNEX

Standard import values for determining the entry price of certain fruit and vegetables

(EUR/100 kg)
CN code	Third country code (1)	Standard import value
0702 00 00	MK	62,3
	TR	71,7
	ZZ	67,0
0707 00 05	MK	50,6
	TR	105,0
	ZZ	77,8
0709 93 10	MA	68,1
	TR	109,3
	ZA	27,3
	ZZ	68,2
0805 50 10	AR	103,3
	TR	120,8
	ZA	121,5
	ZZ	115,2
0808 10 80	AR	135,5
	BR	76,6
	CL	96,5
	CN	99,1
	NZ	133,4
	US	183,9
	UY	168,2
	ZA	99,1
	ZZ	124,0
0809 10 00	TR	248,2
	ZZ	248,2
0809 29 00	TR	456,1
	ZZ	456,1
0809 30	MA	135,6
	ZZ	135,6

---

(1)  Nomenclature of countries laid down by Commission Regulation (EC) No 1833/2006 (OJ L 354, 14.12.2006, p. 19). Code ‘ZZ’ stands for ‘of other origin’.

DRAFT

DECISION OF THE EEA JOINT COMMITTEE No .../2014

of

amending Protocol 31 to the EEA Agreement, on cooperation in specific fields outside the four freedoms

THE EEA JOINT COMMITTEE,

Having regard to the Agreement on the European Economic Area (‘the EEA Agreement’), and in particular Articles 86 and 98 thereof,

Whereas:

(1)

It is appropriate to extend the cooperation of the Contracting Parties to the EEA Agreement to include Regulation (EU) No 1296/2013 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 11 December 2013 on a European Union Programme for Employment and Social Innovation (‘EaSI’) and amending Decision No 283/2010/EU establishing a European Progress Microfinance Facility for employment and social inclusion (1).

(2)	Protocol 31 to the EEA Agreement should therefore be amended in order to allow for this extended cooperation to take place from 1 January 2014,

HAS ADOPTED THIS DECISION:

Article 1

Article 15 of Protocol 31 to the EEA Agreement shall be amended as follows:

1.	In paragraph 2, the words ‘and which are carried out before 1 January 2014,’ are added after the words ‘paragraph 1’.

2.

The following is added in paragraph 8: ‘— 32013 R 1296: Regulation (EU) No 1296/2013 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 11 December 2013 on a European Union Programme for Employment and Social Innovation (“EaSI”) and amending Decision No 283/2010/EU establishing a European Progress Microfinance Facility for employment and social inclusion (OJ L 347, 20.12.2013, p. 238). Liechtenstein shall be exempted from the participation in, and the financial contribution to, this programme. Norway shall participate in, and financially contribute to, only the EURES axis of the programme.’

3.

The text of paragraph 5 is replaced by the following: ‘The EFTA States shall participate in the Community activities referred to in the first indent of paragraph 8 as from 1 January 1999, in the activities referred to in the second indent as from 1 January 2003 and in the activities referred to in the third indent as from 1 January 2014.’

Article 2

This Decision shall enter into force on the day following the last notification under Article 103(1) of the EEA Agreement (2).

It shall apply from 1 January 2014.

Article 3

This Decision shall be published in the EEA Section of, and in the EEA Supplement to, the Official Journal of the European Union.

---

(1)  OJ L 347, 20.12.2013, p. 238.

(2)  [No constitutional requirements indicated.] [Constitutional requirements indicated.]

ANNEX

The criteria for awarding the EU Ecolabel to textile products, and the sub-categories under which they are grouped, are as follows:

Textile fibres

1.	Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres

2.	Flax and other bast fibres

3.	Wool and other keratin fibres

4.

Acrylic

5.

Elastane

6.

Polyamide

7.

Polyester

8.	Polypropylene

9.	Man-made cellulose fibres (lyocell, modal and viscose)

Components and accessories

10.

Fillings

11.	Coatings, laminates and membranes

12.	Accessories

Chemicals and processes

13.	Restricted Substance List (RSL)

14.	Substitution of hazardous substances in dyeing, printing and finishing

15.	Washing, drying and curing energy efficiency

16.	Treatment of emissions to air and water

Fitness for use

17.	Dimensional changes during washing and drying

18.	Colour fastness to washing

19.	Colour fastness to perspiration (acid, alkaline)

20.	Colour fastness to wet rubbing

21.	Colour fastness to dry rubbing

22.	Colour fastness to light

23.	Wash resistance of cleaning products

24.	Fabric resistance to pilling and abrasion

25.	Durability of function

Corporate Social Responsibility

26.	Fundamental principles and rights at work

27.	Restriction on the sandblasting of denim

Supporting information

28.

Information appearing on the Ecolabel

Appendix 1 additionally contains the RSL referred to in criterion 13. This lists restrictions applying to hazardous substances that may be used to manufacture textile products and which may be contained in the final product.

The Ecolabel criteria reflect the best environmental performing products on the market of textiles. Whilst the use of chemical products and release of pollutants is part of the production process, a product that bears the EU Ecolabel guarantees the consumer that the use of such substances has been limited to the extent technically possible without prejudice to the fitness for use.

The criteria exclude whenever possible or restrict at minimum the concentration (required for providing specific functions and properties) of a number of substances identified as hazardous or potentially hazardous to the human health and the environment that may be used to manufacture textiles. Only where a substance is required to meet consumer performance expectations or mandated requirements for the product (for instance flame retardancy), and where there are no applied and tested available alternatives, derogation for such a substance to be used in the Ecolabel is granted.

Derogations are evaluated on the basis of the precautionary principle and scientific and technical evidence, especially if safer products are available on the market.

Product testing for restricted hazardous substances is requested in order to provide a high level of assurance to consumers. Strict conditions are also imposed on the manufacturing processes for textiles to control pollution of water and air, and to minimise exposure of the workforce. The verification of compliance with the criteria is formulated in a way that provides a high level of assurance to consumers, reflects the practical potential for applicants to obtain information from the supply chain and excludes the potential for ‘free riding’ by applicants.

Assessment and verification In order to show compliance with the criteria the applicant is required to declare the following information about the product(s) and their supply chain:

Each criteria contains detailed verification requirements which require the applicant to compile declarations, documentation, analyses, test reports and other evidence relating to the product(s) and their supply chain.

The validity of the license is based on verification upon application and, where specified under criterion 13, product testing which shall be submitted to competent bodies for verification. Changes in suppliers and production sites pertaining to licensed products shall be notified to competent bodies, together with supporting information to verify ongoing compliance with the license conditions.

Competent bodies shall preferentially recognise tests by laboratories which are accredited according to ISO 17025 and verifications performed by bodies which are accredited under the EN 45011 standard or an equivalent international standard.

The functional unit, to which inputs and outputs should be related, is 1 kg of textile product at normal conditions (65 % RH ± 4 % and 20 oC ± 2 °C; these norm conditions are specified in ISO 139 Textiles — standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing).

Where the applicant uses a certification system to provide independent verifications the chosen system and associated systems for accreditation of verifiers shall meet the general requirements of EN 45011 and ISO 17065. Where appropriate, competent bodies may require supporting documentation and may carry out independent verifications and site visits.

The competent bodies are recommended to take into account the implementation of recognised environmental management schemes, such as EMAS, ISO 14001 and ISO 50001, when assessing applications and monitoring compliance with the criteria (note: it is not required to implement such management schemes).

EU ECOLABEL CRITERIA

Applicants shall demonstrate the compliance with the criteria as relevant to the material composition, chemical formulations, production sites and fitness for use of products they wish to carry the Ecolabel.

1.   TEXTILE FIBRE CRITERIA

Fibre-specific criteria are set out in this section for the following fibre types:

(a)	Natural fibres: Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres, flax and other bast fibres, wool and other keratin fibres;

(b)	Synthetic fibres: Acrylic, elastane, polyamide, polyester and polypropylene;

(c)	Man-made cellulose fibres: lyocell, modal and viscose.

The criteria for a given fibre-type need not be met if a fibre contributes to less than 5 % of the total weight of the product or if they constitute a padding or lining. With the exception of polyamide and polyester these criteria do not have to be met:

(a)	By the whole product if it contains fibres that contain recycled content constituting at least 70 % by weight of all fibres in the product;

(b)	By individual fibres forming part of the ecolabelled product which contain at least 70 % by weight of recycled content.

In this context, fibres that contain a recycled content are defined as fibres originating from pre-consumer waste (including polymer and fibre production waste, cuttings from textile and clothing manufacturers) and post-consumer waste (textile and all kind of fibre and textile products, as well as non-textile waste including PET drinking bottles and fishing nets).

Recycled content shall, with the exception of PET bottles used to manufacture polyester, meet the requirements of the criterion 13 RSL. This shall include annual, randomised analytical testing for specified substance groups.

Assessment and verification for recycled content : recycled content shall be traceable back to the reprocessing of the feedstock. This shall be verified by independent third party certification of the chain of custody or by documentation provided by feedstock suppliers and reprocessors. Where required by criterion 13 declarations and laboratory testing results shall be provided by fibre manufacturers and feedstock suppliers.

Criterion 1. Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres (including kapok)

Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres (hereinafter referred to as cotton) shall contain a minimum content of either organic cotton (see criterion 1a) or integrated pest management (IPM) cotton (see criterion 1b). In addition to this:

—	All conventional cotton and IPM cotton used shall comply with the pesticide restrictions in criterion 1c,

—	For the production standard 1(a) Organic, all conventional cotton and IPM cotton used shall come from non-genetically modified varieties,

—	All organic and IPM cotton shall be fully traceable in accordance with criterion 1d,

—	Clothing for babies of less than 3 years old shall contain a minimum of 95 % organic cotton.

Products meeting specific content thresholds for organic or IPM cotton shall be permitted to display additional text alongside the Ecolabel communicating the content claim. Guidance is provided in criterion 28.

1(a)   Organic production standard

With the exception of the products listed below a minimum of 10 % of the cotton shall be grown according to the requirements laid down in Council Regulation (EC) No 834/2007 (1), the US National Organic Programme (NOP) or equivalent legal obligations set by trade partners of the EU. The organic cotton content may include organically grown cotton and transitional organic cotton.

The cotton content of the following products shall contain a minimum of 95 % organic cotton: T-shirts, woman's tops, casual shirts, jeans, pyjamas and nightwear, underwear and socks.

Assessment and verification : Organic content should be certified by an independent control body to have been produced in conformity with the production and inspection requirements laid down in Regulation (EC) No 834/2007 the US National Organic Programme (NOP) or those set by other trade partners.. Verification shall be provided on an annual basis for each country of origin.

Non-genetically modified varieties of cotton shall be verified in conformity with Regulation (EC) No 1830/2003 of the European Parliament and of the Council (2).

1(b)   Cotton production according to IPM principles

A minimum of 20 % of the cotton shall be grown according to IPM principles as defined by the UN Food and Agricultural Organisation (FAO) IPM programme, or Integrated Crop Management (ICM) systems incorporating IPM principles, and shall comply with the pesticide restrictions in criterion 1(c).

For the following products the minimum percentage of the cotton that shall be grown according to IPM principles as defined above shall be 60 %: T-shirts, woman's tops, casual shirts, jeans, pyjamas and nightwear, underwear and socks.

Assessment and verification : The applicant shall provide evidence that the cotton has been grown by farmers that have participated in formal training programmes of the UN FAO or Government IPM and ICM programmes and/or that have been audited as part of third party certified IPM schemes. Verification shall either be provided on an annual basis for each country of origin or on the basis of certifications for all IPM cotton bales purchased to manufacture the product.

Compliance with the pesticide restriction shall not be required for schemes that prohibit use of the substances listed in criterion 1(c) and where either testing is carried out or declarations of non-use are obtained from farmers and/or farmer producer groups that are verified by site visits carried out by control bodies accredited by either national governments or recognised organic or IPM certification schemes.

Non-genetically modified IPM cotton used in combination with organic cotton shall be verified in conformity with Regulation (EC) No 1830/2003. IPM schemes that exclude genetically modified cotton shall be accepted as proof of compliance for IPM content.

1(c)   Pesticide restrictions applying to conventional and IPM cotton

All cotton used in ecolabelled textile products, with the exception of organic cotton and cotton from IPM schemes exempted in 1(b), shall be grown without the use of any of the following substances:

Alachlor, aldicarb, aldrin, campheclor (toxaphene), captafol, chlordane, 2,4,5-T, chlordimeform, chlorobenzilate, cypermethrin, DDT, dieldrin, dinoseb and its salts, endosulfan, endrin, glyphosulfate, heptachlor, hexachlorobenzene, hexachlorocyclohexane (total isomers), methamidophos, methyl-o-dematon, methylparathion, monocrotophos, neonicotinoids (clothianidine, imidacloprid, thiametoxam), parathion, phosphamidon, pentachlorophenol, thiofanex, triafanex, triazophos

Cotton shall not contain more than 0,5 ppm in total of the substances listed above.

Assessment and verification : Cotton shall be tested for the listed substances. A test report shall be provided based on the following test methods, as appropriate:

—	US EPA 8081 B (organo-chlorine pesticides, with ultrasonic or Soxhlet extraction and apolar solvents (iso-octane or hexane)),

—	US EPA 8151 A (chlorinated herbicides, using methanol),

—	US EPA 8141 B (organophosphorus compounds),

—	US EPA 8270 D (semi-volatile organic compounds).

Tests shall be made on samples of raw cotton from each country of origin and before it passes through any wet treatment. For each country of origin testing shall be carried out on the following basis:

(i)	Where only one lot of cotton is used per year a sample shall be taken from a randomly selected bale;

(ii)	If two or more lots of cotton are used per year composite samples shall be taken from 5 % of the bales.

Cotton is not required to be tested where it has been certified by an IPM scheme that prohibits the use of the listed substances.

1(d)   Traceability requirements applying to organic and IPM cotton

All cotton grown according to the organic and IPM production standards and used to manufacture an Ecolabelled textile product shall be traceable from the point of verification of the production standard up until, as a minimum, greige fabric production.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall demonstrate compliance with the minimum cotton content requirement either for the annual volume of cotton purchased or for the blend of cotton used to manufacture the final product(s) and according to each product line:

(i)	On an annualised basis: Transaction records and/or invoices shall be provided that document the quantity of cotton purchased on an annual basis from farmers or producer groups, and/or the total weight of certified bales, up until greige fabric production.

(ii)	On a final product basis: Documentation shall be provided from the spinning and/or fabric production stages. All documentation shall reference the Control Body or certifier of the different forms of cotton.

Criterion 2. Flax and other bast fibres (including hemp, jute and ramie)

2(a)   Flax and other bast fibres shall be retted under ambient conditions and without thermal energy inputs.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a declaration of the retting method used from the farmers and/or scutching mills supplying the fibre.

2(b)   Where water retting has been used the wastewater from retting ponds shall be treated so as to reduce the COD or TOC by at least 75 % for hemp fibres and by at least 95 % for flax and other bast fibres.

Assessment and verification : if water retting is used, the applicant shall provide a test report showing compliance and using the following test method: ISO 6060 (COD).

Criterion 3. Wool and other keratin fibres (including wool from sheep and lambs, and hair from camel, alpaca and goat)

3(a)   The sum totals provided in Table 2 shall not be exceeded for wool ectoparasiticide concentrations on raw wool prior to scouring.

These requirements shall not apply if documentary evidence can be presented that establishes the identity of the farmers producing at least 75 % of the wool or keratin fibres in question, together with an independent verification based on site visits that the substances listed above have not been applied to the fields or animals concerned.

Table 2

Sum total restrictions on ectoparasiticide concentrations in wool

Ectoparasiticide groups	Sum total limit value
γ-hexachlorocyclohexane (lindane), α-hexachlorocyclohexane, β-hexachlorocyclohexane, δ-hexachlorocyclohexane, aldrin, dieldrin, endrin, p,p'-DDT, p,p'-DDD	0,5 ppm
Cypermethrin, deltamethrin, fenvalerate, cyhalothrin, flumethrin	0,5 ppm
Diazinon, propetamphos, chlorfenvinphos, dichlofenthion, chlorpyriphos, fenchlorphos	2 ppm
Diflubenzuron, triflumuron, dicyclanil	2 ppm

Wool scourers that operate closed loop water systems without the discharge of wastewater effluent and which break down the aforementioned ectoparasiticides that may be present in scouring residues and sludge through incineration are derogated from the requirement for wool testing but must comply with at least two of the measures in 3(c).

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall either provide the documentation indicated above or compile test reports, using the following test method: IWTO draft test method 59. The test should be made on sales lots of raw wool, by country of origin (if mixed) and before any wet processing. A minimum of one composite sample of multiple lots from each country of origin shall be tested per processing lot. A composite sample should consist of:

(i)	Wool fibres from at least 10 randomly selected farmer lots within the sales lot; or

(ii)	One composite sample per farmer supplying the lots where there are less than 10 sales lots within the processing lot.

Alternatively residue test certificates may be submitted for all sales lots in a processing lot.

Where a derogation applies then the applicant shall provide evidence confirming the scouring plant configuration and laboratory test reports demonstrating the breakdown of ectoparasiticides that may be present in scouring residues and sludge.

3(b)   Wool scouring operations shall minimise effluent COD by maximising dirt removal and grease recovery, followed by treatment to the value specified in Table 3 either on or off site. The following COD limits shall apply to coarse and fine greasy wool scouring. Fine wool is defined as merino wool of ≤ 23,5 micron in diameter.

Table 3

COD values for the final discharge of effluent from wool scouring

Type of wool	Final discharge to the environment (g COD/kg greasy wool)
Coarse wool	25 g/kg
Fine wool	45 g/kg

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide relevant data and test reports related to this criterion, using the following test method: ISO 6060. The data shall demonstrate compliance by the wool scouring site or, if the effluent is treated off-site, by the wastewater treatment operator. Compliance with this criterion shall be on the basis of monthly averages for the six months preceding the application.

3(c)   Wool scourers shall implement at least one of the following measures to recover value from either oxidised grease, fibre, suint or sludge arising from the scouring site used for the ecolabelled wool products:

(i)	recovery for sale as a chemical feedstock;

(ii)	the production of compost or liquid fertiliser;

(iii)

the manufacturing of products such as building materials;

(iv)	treatment and energy recovery by anaerobic digestion or incineration.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a report and waste transfer notes confirming the type and proportion of waste recovered and the method used.

Criterion 4. Acrylic

4(a)   The emissions to air of acrylonitrile (during polymerisation and up to the solution ready for spinning), expressed as an annual average, shall be less than 1,0 g/kg of fibre produced.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance from the fibre manufacturer(s).

4(b)   The workplace emissions to air of N,N-dimethylacetamide (127-19-5) during polymerisation and spinning shall not exceed an Indicative Occupational Exposure Limit Value (IOELV) of 10,0 ppm.

Assessment and verification : emissions values are to be measured at those process stages in which the substances are used, expressed as an 8-hour average value (shift mean value). The applicant shall provide test reports and monitoring data from the fibre manufacturer(s) showing compliance with this criterion.

Criterion 5. Elastane

5(a)   Organotin compounds shall not be used to manufacture the fibres.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use from the fibre manufacturer(s).

5(b)   The workplace emissions to air of the following substances during polymerisation and spinning shall not exceed the following indicative occupational exposure limit values (IOELV):

(i)	diphenylmethane-4,4'-diisocyanate (101-68-8) 0,005 ppm

(ii)	toluene-2,4-diisocyanate (584-84-9) 0,005 ppm

(iii)

N,N-dimethylacetamide (127-19-5) 10,0 ppm

Assessment and verification : emissions values are to be measured at those process stages in which the substances are used, expressed as an 8-hour average value (shift mean value). The applicant shall provide test reports and monitoring data from the fibre manufacturer(s) showing compliance with this criterion.

Criterion 6. Polyamide (or nylon)

Polyamide products shall comply with at least one of the production standards listed in sub-criteria 6(a) and 6(b).

Any product that meets the minimum recycled content threshold shall be permitted to display additional text alongside the Ecolabel communicating a content claim. Guidance is provided in criterion 28.

6(a)   Production standard 1: Minimum recycled content.

Fibres shall be manufactured using a minimum content of 20 % nylon that has been recycled from pre and/or post-consumer waste.

Assessment and verification : recycled content shall be traceable back to the reprocessing of the feedstock. This shall be verified by independent certification of the chain of custody or by documentation provided by suppliers and processors.

6(b)   Production standard 2: N2O emissions from monomer production.

The emissions to air of N2O from nylon monomer production, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 9,0 g N2O/kg of caprolactam (for nylon 6) or adipic acid (for nylon 6,6).

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide documentation or test reports showing compliance based on monitoring data, together with a declaration of compliance from fibre manufacturer(s) and their feedstock providers.

Criterion 7. Polyester

Textile products that are primarily for sale to consumers shall comply with sub-criteria (a) and (b). Textile products that are primarily for sale to commercial or public sector customers shall comply with (a) and either (b) or (c).

Any product that meets the minimum recycled content threshold shall be permitted to display additional text alongside the Ecolabel communicating this content claim. Guidance is provided in criterion 28.

7(a)   The level of antimony present in the polyester fibres shall not exceed 260 ppm. Polyester fibres manufactured from recycled PET bottles are derogated from this requirement.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use or a test report using the following test methods: direct determination by Atomic Absorption Spectrometry or Inductively Coupled Plasma (ICP) Mass Spectrometry. The test shall be carried out on a composite sample of raw fibres prior to any wet processing. A declaration shall be provided for fibres manufactured from recycled PET bottles.

7(b)   Fibres shall be manufactured using a minimum content of PET that has been recycled from pre-consumer and/or post-consumer waste. Staple fibres shall contain a minimum content of 50 % and filament fibres 20 %. Micro-fibres are derogated from this requirement and shall instead comply with (c).

Assessment and verification : recycled content shall be traceable back to the reprocessing of the feedstock. This shall be verified by independent certification of the chain of custody or by documentation provided by suppliers and processors.

7(c)   The emissions of VOCs during the production of polyester, expressed as an annual average including both point sources and fugitive emissions, shall not exceed 1,2 g/kg for PET chips and 10,3 g/kg for filament fibre.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide monitoring data and/or test reports demonstrating compliance with EN 12619 or standards with an equivalent test method. Monthly averages for the total emissions of organic compounds from production sites for ecolabelled products shall be provided for a minimum of six months preceding the application.

Criterion 8. Polypropylene

Lead based pigments shall not be used.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use.

Criterion 9. Man-made cellulose fibres (including viscose, modal and lyocell)

Pulp production sub-criteria

9(a)   A minimum 25 % of pulp fibres shall be manufactured from wood that has been grown according to the principles of sustainable forestry management as defined by the UN FAO. The remaining proportion of pulp fibres shall be from pulp that is sourced from legal forestry and plantations.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall obtain from the fibre manufacturer(s) valid, independently certified chain of custody certificates demonstrating that the wood fibres have been grown according to sustainable forestry management principles and/or are from legal sources. FSC, PEFC or equivalent schemes shall be accepted as independent certification.

The fibre manufacturer shall demonstrate that due diligence processes have been followed as specified in Regulation (EU) No 995/2010 of the European Parliament and of the Council (3) in order to ensure that timber has been legally harvested. Valid EU FLEGT (Forest Law Enforcement, Governance and Trade) or UN CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) licenses and/or third party certification shall be accepted as evidence of legal sourcing.

9(b)   Pulp produced from cotton linters shall, as a minimum, meet with the requirements of either cotton criterion 1a or 1b.

Assessment and verification : as indicated in the corresponding criteria

9(c)   Pulp used to manufacture fibres shall be bleached without the use of elemental chlorine. The resulting total amount of chlorine and organically bound chlorine in the finished fibres (OX) shall not exceed 150 ppm or in the wastewater from pulp manufacturing (AOX) shall not exceed 0,170 kg/ADt pulp.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a test report showing compliance with either the OX or the AOX requirement, using the appropriate test method: OX: ISO 11480 (controlled combustion and microcoulometry).

AOX: ISO 9562

9(d)   A minimum of 50 % of the pulp used to manufacture fibres shall be purchased from dissolving pulp mills that recover value from their spent process liquors either by:

(i)	Generating on-site electricity and steam

(ii)	Manufacturing chemical co-products.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a list of pulp suppliers supplying the raw material used to make the fibres and the proportion of pulp that they supply. Documentation and evidence shall be provided that the required proportion of suppliers have the appropriate energy generating equipment and/or co-product recovery and manufacturing systems installed at related production sites.

Fibre production sub-criteria

9(e)   For viscose and modal fibres, the sulphur content of the emissions of sulphur compounds to air from fibre production processes, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed the following performance values in Table 4.

Table 4

Viscose and Modal fibre sulphur emissions values

Fibre type	Performance value (g S/kg)
Staple fibre	30 g/kg
Filament fibre
— Batch washing — Integrated washing	40 g/kg 170 g/kg

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance.

2.   COMPONENT AND ACCESSORIES CRITERIA

The criteria in this section apply to components and accessories that form part of a final product.

Criterion 10. Fillings

10(a)   Filling materials consisting of textile fibres shall comply with the textile fibre criteria (1–9) where appropriate.

10(b)   Filling materials shall comply with the textile RSL' requirements for biocides and formaldehyde (see Appendix 1).

10(c)   Detergents and other chemicals used for the washing of fillings (down, feathers, natural or synthetic fibres) shall comply with the textile RSL' requirements for auxiliary chemicals and for detergents, softeners and complexing agents (see Appendix 1).

Assessment and verification : as indicated in the corresponding criteria

Criterion 11. Coatings, laminates and membranes

11(a)   Components made of polyurethane shall comply with Textile fibre criteria 5(a) relating to organic tin and 5(b) relating to workplace exposure to aromatic diisocyanates and DMAc.

11(b)   Components made of polyester shall comply with Textile fibre criteria 7(a) and 7(c) regarding antimony content and the emission of VOCs during polymerisation.

11(c)   Polymers shall comply with restriction g(v) of the RSL in Appendix 1 of this Decision.

Assessment and verification : as indicated in the corresponding criteria and/or in the Appendix 1 to this Decision.

Criterion 12. Accessories

Metal and plastic components such as zips, buttons and fasteners shall comply with the RSL' requirements for accessories (see Appendix 1).

Assessment and verification : as indicated in the corresponding criteria.

3.   CHEMICALS AND PROCESS CRITERIA

The criteria in this section apply, where specified, to the following production stages:

(i)

Spinning

(ii)	Fabric formation

(iii)

Pre-treatment

(iv)

Dyeing

(v)

Printing

(vi)

Finishing

(vii)

Cut/make/trim

Unless specified otherwise these criteria, including the requirements for random testing, shall also apply to fibres containing recycled content.

Criterion 13. Restricted Substance List (RSL)

13(a)   General requirements

The final product and the production recipes used to manufacture the final product shall not contain the hazardous substances listed in the Restricted Substance List at or above the specified concentration limits or according to the specified restrictions. The RSL can be found in Appendix 1. The restrictions in the RSL take precedence over the derogations listed in Criterion 14, Table 6.

The RSL shall be communicated to suppliers and agents responsible for the spinning, dyeing, printing and finishing stages of production. Verification and testing requirements are specified in the RSL for each production stage and for the final product.

Laboratory testing, where required, shall be carried out for each product line based on random sampling. Testing shall be carried out annually during the license period in order to demonstrate ongoing compliance with the RSL.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance with the RSL supported by evidence as applicable to the substances and production recipes used to manufacture the final product. The requirements are indicated in the RSL and include declarations obtained from those responsible for related production stages, declarations from chemical suppliers and test results from laboratory analysis of samples of the final product. Declarations obtained from production stages shall be supported by safety data sheets (SDS) for production recipes and, where necessary, declarations from chemical suppliers. SDS shall be completed in accordance with the guidance in Section 2.3,9,10, 11 and 12 of Annex II to Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council (4)(Guide to the compilation of safety data sheets). Incomplete SDS shall require supplementing by declarations from chemical suppliers.

Laboratory analysis of the final product shall be carried out in a representative way for the licensed product lines, where specified in the RSL and according to the test methods listed. Testing, where required, shall be carried out upon application and once a year thereafter for each product line based on a random sample, with results then communicated to the relevant competent body. Test data obtained for the purposes of compliance with industry RSL's and other schemes shall be accepted where the test methods are equivalent and have been carried out on a representative sample of the final product.

Failure of a test result during a license period shall result in retesting for the specific product line. If the second test fails then the license shall be suspended for the specific product line. Remedial action will then be required in order to re-instate the license.

13(b)   Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC's)

The final product including any component or accessory shall not, unless specifically derogated, contain substances that:

(i)	Meet the criteria in Article 57 of Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006;

(ii)	Have been identified according to the procedure described in Article 59(1) of Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 which establishes the candidate list for substances of very high concern.

This applies to substances used to impart function to the final product and to substances that have been intentionally used in production formulas.

No derogation shall be given concerning substances that meet either of these two conditions, and which are present in a textile article, or in any homogeneous part of a complex textile article, in concentrations higher than 0,10 % (weight by weight).

Assessment and verification : Substances and recipes used at each production stage shall be screened against the latest version of the candidate list published by ECHA. The applicant shall compile declarations of compliance from each production stage supported by screening documentation.

Where a derogation has been granted then the applicant shall show that use of the substance is in compliance with the concentration limits and derogation conditions set out in the RSL.

Criterion 14. Substitution of hazardous substances used in dyeing, printing and finishing

Substances applied to fabrics and knitted panels during dyeing, printing and finishing processes which remain on the final product and, in accordance with Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 of the European Parliament and of the Council (5) or Council Directive 67/548/EC (6), meet the criteria for classification with the hazard classes or risk phrases listed in Table 5 shall not be used unless they have been specifically derogated. These restrictions shall also apply to functional substances incorporated into man-made fibres during their manufacturing.

14(a)   Hazard classification restrictions

The hazard classifications restricted are listed in Table 5. The most recent classification rules adopted by the European Union shall take precedence over the listed hazard classifications and risk phrases. Applicants shall therefore ensure that any classifications are based on the most recent classification rules.

The use of substances or mixtures which change their properties upon processing (e.g., become no longer bioavailable, undergo chemical modification) so that the identified hazard no longer applies are exempted from the above requirements. This shall include polymers that have been modified to incorporate a function and monomers or additives which become covalently bonded with polymers.

Table 5

Restricted hazard classifications and risk phrases and their CLP categorisation

Acute toxicity
Category 1 and 2	Category 3
H300 Fatal if swallowed (R28)	H301 Toxic if swallowed (R25)
H310 Fatal in contact with skin (R27)	H311 Toxic in contact with skin (R24)
H330 Fatal if inhaled (R23/26)	H331 Toxic if inhaled (R23)
H304 May be fatal if swallowed and enters airways (R65)	EUH070 Toxic by eye contact (R39/41)
Specific target organ toxicity
Category 1	Category 2
H370 Causes damage to organs (R39/23, R39/24, R39/25, R39/26, R39/27, R39/28)	H371 May cause damage to organs (R68/20, R68/21, R68/22)
H372 Causes damage to organs through prolonged or repeated exposure (R48/25, R48/24, R48/23)	H373 May cause damage to organs through prolonged or repeated exposure (R48/20, R48/21, R48/22)
Respiratory and skin sensitisation
Category 1A	Category 1B
H317: May cause allergic skin reaction (R43)	H317: May cause allergic skin reaction (R43)
H334: May cause allergy or asthma symptoms or breathing difficulties if inhaled (R42)	H334: May cause allergy or asthma symptoms or breathing difficulties if inhaled (R42)
Carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction
Category 1A and 1B	Category 2
H340 May cause genetic defects (R46)	H341 Suspected of causing genetic defects (R68)
H350 May cause cancer (R45)	H351 Suspected of causing cancer (R40)
H350i May cause cancer by inhalation (R49)
H360F May damage fertility (R60)	H361f Suspected of damaging fertility (R62)
H360D May damage the unborn child (R61)	H361d Suspected of damaging the unborn child (R63)
H360FD May damage fertility. May damage the unborn child (R60, R60/61)	H361fd Suspected of damaging fertility. Suspected of damaging the unborn child (R62/63)
H360Fd May damage fertility. Suspected of damaging the unborn child (R60/63)	H362 May cause harm to breast fed children (R64)
H360Df May damage the unborn child. Suspected of damaging fertility (R61/62)
Hazardous to the aquatic environment
Category 1 and 2	Category 3 and 4
H400 Very toxic to aquatic life (R50)	H412 Harmful to aquatic life with long-lasting effects (R52/53)
H410 Very toxic to aquatic life with long-lasting effects (R50/53)	H413 May cause long-lasting effects to aquatic life (R53)
H411 Toxic to aquatic life with long-lasting effects (R51/53)
Hazardous to the ozone layer
EUH059 Hazardous to the ozone layer (R59)

14(b)   Derogations that apply to textile substance groups

In accordance with Article 6(7) of Regulation (EC) No 66/2010 the substance groups in Table 6 are specifically derogated from the requirements set out in Criterion 14(a) and in accordance with the derogation conditions described in Table 6. For each substance group all derogation conditions are provided for the specified hazard classifications. These derogations also apply to substances added to man-made synthetic and cellulosic fibres during their manufacturing.

Table 6

Derogated hazard classifications by substance group

Substances that impart function to the final product
Substance group	Derogated hazard classifications	Derogation conditions
(i) Dyestuff for dyeing and non-pigment printing	H301, H311, H331, H317, H334	Dust free dye formulations or automatic dosing and dispensing of dyes shall be used by dye houses and printers to minimise worker exposure;
	H411, H412, H413	Dyeing processes using reactive, direct, vat, sulphur dyes with these classifications shall meet a minimum of one of the following conditions: — Use of high affinity dyes; — Achievement of a reject rate of less than 3,0 % — Use of colour matching instrumentation; — Implementation of standard operating procedures for the dyeing process; — Use of colour removal to treat wastewater in compliance with criterion 16(a) The use of solution dyeing and/or digital printing are exempted from these conditions.
(ii) Flame retardants	H317 (1B), H373, H411, H412, H413	— The product must be intended to be used in applications in which it is required to meet fire protection requirements in ISO, EN, Member State or public sector procurement standards and regulations. — The product shall meet the requirements for durability of function (see criterion 25)
	H351 is derogated for the application of antimony trioxide synergist as a backcoating for interior textiles.	— The product must be intended to be used in applications in which it is required to meet fire protection requirements in ISO, EN, Member State or public sector procurement standards and regulations. — Emissions to air in the workplace where the flame retardant is applied to the textile product shall meet an eight hour occupational exposure limit value of 0,50 mg/m3.
(iii) Optical brighteners	H411, H412, H413	Optical brighteners may only be applied in the following cases: — In white coloured printing; — To achieve enhanced brightness in uniforms and work wear; — As additives during the production of polyamide and polyester with a recycled content.
(iv) Water, dirt and stain repellents	H413	— The repellent and its degradation products shall be readily andor inherently biodegradable and non-bioaccumulative in the aquatic environment, including aquatic sediment. — The product shall meet the requirements for durability of function (See criterion 25)
Other residual substances that may be found on the final product
(v) Auxilliaries comprising: Carriers, Levelling agents, Dispersing agents, Surfactants, Thickeners, Binders,	H301, H311, H331, H371, H373, H317 (1B), H334, H411, H412, H413, EUH070,	Recipes shall be formulated using automatic dosing systems and processes shall follow standard operating procedures. Substances classified with H311, H331, H317 (1B) shall not be present on the final product at concentrations of greater than 1,0 % w/w.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall obtain declarations of compliance from each dyeing, printing and finishing production site and, where necessary, their chemical suppliers. This shall declare that, where used in production recipes, the following substances, together with any additional functional substances used that may remain on the final product, do not meet the criteria for classification with one or more of the hazard classifications and risk phrases listed in Table 5:

—

biocides

—	dyestuffs and pigments

—	auxilliary carriers, levelling agents and dispersing agents

—	optical brighteners

—	print thickeners, binders and plasticizers

—	cross-linking agents (from easy care finishes and printing)

—	flame retardants and synergists

—	water, dirt and stain repellents

—	fabric softeners

Where substances are derogated in Table 6 then the declaration shall specifically identify those derogated substances and provide supporting evidence showing how the derogation conditions are to be met.

Derogation (v) Auxilliaries shall require verification based on laboratory testing of the final product if the production formulas include substances that carry the specified hazard classifications.

The following technical information shall be provided to support the declaration of classification or non-classification for each substance:

(i)	For substances that have not been registered under Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 or which do not yet have a harmonised CLP classification: Information meeting the requirements listed in Annex VII to that Regulation;

(ii)	For substances that have been registered under Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 and which do not meet the requirements for CLP classification: Information based on the REACH registration dossier confirming the non-classified status of the substance;

(iii)

For substances that have a harmonised classification or are self-classified: SDS where available. If these are not available or the substance is self-classified then information shall be provided relevant to the substances hazard classification according to Annex II to Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006;

(iv)

In the case of mixtures: safety data sheets where available. If these are not available then calculation of the mixture classification shall be provided according to the rules under Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 together with information relevant to the mixtures hazard classification according to Annex II to Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006.

SDS shall be completed in accordance with the guidance in Section 2.3,9,10, 11 and 12 of Annex II to Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 (requirements for the compilation of SDS). Incomplete SDS will require supplementing by declarations from chemical suppliers.

Criterion 15. Washing, drying and curing energy efficiency

The applicant shall demonstrate that the energy used in washing, drying and curing steps associated with dyeing, printing and finishing steps for ecolabelled products is measured and benchmarked as part of an energy or carbon dioxide emissions management system.

Furthermore, they shall demonstrate that production sites have implemented a minimum number of Best Available Techniques (BAT) energy efficiency techniques as specified in Table 7 and as listed in Appendix 3 to this decision.

Table 7

Washing, rinsing and drying energy efficiency techniques

BAT themes	Production volume
	< 10 tonnes/day	> 10 tonnes/day
1. General energy management	Two techniques	Three techniques
2. Washing and rinsing processes	One technique	Two techniques
3. Drying and curing using stenter frames	One technique	Two techniques

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall compile reporting from energy management systems for each dyeing, printing and finishing production site. ISO 50001 or equivalent systems for energy or carbon dioxide emissions shall be accepted as evidence for the energy management system.

The evidence required of BAT implementation shall include, as a minimum, site photographs, technical descriptions of each technique and evaluations of the energy savings achieved.

Criterion 16. Treatment of emissions to air and water

16(a)   Wastewater discharges from wet processing

Wastewater discharges to the environment shall not exceed 20 g COD/kg textiles processed. This requirement shall apply to weaving, dyeing, printing and finishing processes used to manufacture the product(s). The requirement shall be measured downstream of on-site wastewater treatment plant and/or off-site wastewater treatment plant receiving wastewater from these processing sites.

If the effluent is treated on site and discharged directly to surface waters, it shall also meet the following requirements:

(i)	pH between 6,0 and 9,0 (unless the pH of the receiving water is outside this range)

(ii)	temperature of less than 35 oC (unless the temperature of the receiving water is above this value)

If colour removal is required by a derogation condition in criterion 14 then the following spectral absorption coefficients shall be met:

(i)	436 nm (yellow sector) 7 m-1

(ii)	525 nm (red sector) 5 m-1

(iii)

620 nm (blue sector) 3 m-1

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide detailed documentation and test reports, using ISO 6060 and ISO 7887 as relevant, and showing compliance with this criterion on the basis of monthly averages for the six months preceding the application, together with a declaration of compliance. The data shall demonstrate compliance by the production site or, if the effluent is treated off-site, by the wastewater treatment operator.

16(b)   Emissions to air from printing and finishing processes

Total emissions of organic compounds, as defined in Council Directive 1999/13/EC (7), from textile printing and finishing production sites used to manufacture the ecolabelled product(s) shall not exceed 100,0 mg C/Nm3.

Where textile coating and drying processes allow for the recovery and reuse of solvents an emissions limit of 150,0 mg C/Nm3 shall apply.

Finishing processes include the thermosetting, thermosoling, coating and impregnating of textiles including their respective drying (stenter) facilities.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall demonstrate compliance according to EN 12619 or other equivalent standards. Monthly averages for the total emissions of organic compounds from production sites shall be provided for the six months preceding the application. Where recovery and reuse of solvents is carried out then monitoring data shall be provided to evidence the operation of these systems.

4.   FITNESS FOR USE CRITERIA

The criteria in this section apply to intermediate fabric and knitted product and to the final product.

Criterion 17. Dimensional changes during washing and drying

The dimensional changes after washing and drying at either domestic or industrial washing temperatures and conditions shall not exceed those specified in Table 8.

Table 8

Tolerances for dimensional changes during washing and drying

Textile products or type of material	Dimensional changes during washing and drying
Knitted fabrics	± 4,0 %
Chunky knit	± 6,0 %
Interlock	± 5,0 %
Woven fabrics:
— Cotton and cotton mix — Wool mix — Synthetic fibres	± 3,0 % ± 2,0 % ± 2,0 %
Socks and hosiery	± 8,0 %
Bathroom linen, including terry towelling and fine rib fabrics	± 8,0 %
Washable and removable woven upholstery — Curtains and furniture fabric	± 2,0 %
— Mattress ticking	± 3,0 %
Non-woven fabrics
— Mattress ticking — All other fabrics	± 5,0 % ± 6,0 %

This criterion does not apply to:

(a)	fibres or yarn;

(b)	products clearly labelled ‘dry clean only’ or equivalent;

(c)	furniture fabrics that are not removable and washable.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide test reports using the standards appropriate for the product.

For domestic washing EN ISO 6330 in combination with EN ISO 5077 shall be used as follows: three washes at temperatures as indicated on the product, with tumble drying after each washing cycle.

For commercial washing in industrial laundries ISO 15797 in combination with EN ISO 5077 shall be used at a minimum of 75 °C or as indicated in the standard for the fibre and bleaching combination. Drying shall be as indicated on the product label.

Alternatively for removable and washable mattress ticking EN ISO 6330 in combination with EN 25077 shall be used. The default conditions shall be washing 3A (60 °C) and drying C (flat drying) unless the product label states otherwise.

Criterion 18. Colour fastness to washing

The colour fastness to washing shall be at least level 3-4 for colour change and at least level 3-4 for staining.

This criterion does not apply to products labelled ‘dry clean only’ or equivalent (in so far as it is normal practice for such products to be so labelled), to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed, or to non-washable furniture fabrics.

Assessment and verification : for domestic washing the applicant shall provide test reports using the test method: ISO 105 C06 (single wash, at temperature as marked on the product, with perborate powder).

For commercial washing in industrial laundries ISO 15797 in combination with ISO 105 C06 shall be used at a minimum of 75 °C or as indicated in the standard for the fibre and bleaching combination.

Criterion 19. Colour fastness to perspiration (acid, alkaline)

The colour fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline) shall be at least level 3-4 (colour change and staining). A level of 3 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics are both dark coloured (standard depth > 1/1) and made of regenerated wool. This criterion does not apply to white products, to products that are neither dyed nor printed, to furniture fabrics, curtains or similar textiles intended for interior decoration.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 E04 (acid and alkaline, comparison with multi-fibre fabric).

Criterion 20. Colour fastness to wet rubbing

The colour fastness to wet rubbing shall be at least level 2-3. A level of 2 is nevertheless allowed for indigo dyed denim.

This criterion does not apply to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 X12.

Criterion 21. Colour fastness to dry rubbing

The colour fastness to dry rubbing shall be at least level 4. A level of 3-4 is nevertheless allowed for indigo dyed denim.

This criterion does not apply to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed, or to curtains or similar textiles intended for interior decoration.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 X12.

Criterion 22. Colour fastness to light

For fabrics intended for furniture, curtains or drapes, the colour fastness to light shall be at least level 5. For all other products the colour fastness to light shall be at least level 4.

A level of 4 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics intended for furniture, curtains or drapes are both light coloured (standard depth < 1/12) and made of more than 20 % wool or other keratin fibres, or more than 20 % linen or other bast fibres.

This requirement does not apply to mattress ticking, mattress protection or underwear.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 B02.

Criterion 23. Wash resistance and absorbency of cleaning products

Cleaning products shall be wash resistant and absorbent according to the relevant testing parameters identified in Tables 9 and 10. The testing specified for absorbency shall not apply to twisted yarn products.

Table 9

Values and parameters for the wash resistance of cleaning products

Textile cleaning products or type of material	Numbers of washes	Temperature	EN ISO 6630 test reference
Woven and non-woven products for wet cleaning	80	40 °C	Procedure 4N
Microfibre products for dusting	200	40 °C	Procedure 4N
Products deriving from recycled textile fibres	20	30 °C	Procedure 3G
Mops for washing floors	200	60 °C	Procedure 6N
Cloths for washing floors	5	30 °C	Procedure 3G

Table 10

Values and parameters for the absorbency of cleaning products

Textile cleaning products or type of material	Liquid absorbency time
Products deriving from recycled textile fibres	≤ 10 seconds
Microfibre products for surface and floor cleaning	≤ 10 seconds
Woven and non-woven products for wet cleaning	≤ 10 seconds
Products for washing floors	≤ 10 seconds

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test methods as relevant: EN ISO 6330 and EN ISO 9073-6. Testing according to EN ISO 6330 shall be carried out using washing machine type A for all products and materials.

Criterion 24. Fabric resistance to pilling and abrasion

Non-woven fabrics and knitted garments, accessories and blankets made of wool, wool blends and polyester (including fleece), shall resist pilling to rating of a minimum of 3.

Woven cotton fabrics used for garments shall resist pilling to a rating of a minimum of 3. Polyamide tights and leggings shall resist to a rating of a minimum of 2.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide reports from tests carried out as appropriate to the substrate:

—	Knitted and non-woven products: ISO 12945-1 Pill box method

—	Woven fabrics: ISO 12945-2 Martindale method

Criterion 25. durability of function

Finishes, treatments and additives that impart water, oil and stain repellency flame retardancy and easy care (also referred to as non-crease or permanent press) to the textile product when it is in use shall be durable according to the values and parameters set out in sub-criteria 25(a), (b) and (c).

For water, oil and stain repellents consumers shall be provided with guidance on how to maintain the functionality of finishes applied to the product.

Textile fibres, fabrics and membranes that lend the final product intrinsic functional properties are exempt from these requirements.

Assessment and verification : for products with intrinsic properties applicants shall provide test reports demonstrating comparable or improved performance compared with alternatives that may be applied as finishes.

25(a)   Water, oil and stain repellent functions

Water repellents shall retain a functionality of 80 out of 90 after 20 domestic wash and tumble dry cycles at 40 °C, or after 10 industrial washing and drying cycles at a minimum of 75 °C.

Oil repellents shall retain a functionality of 3,5 out of 4,0 after 20 domestic wash and tumble dry cycles at 40 °C, or after 10 industrial washing and drying cycles at a minimum of 75 °C.

Stain repellents shall retain a functionality of 3,0 out of 5,0 after 20 domestic wash and tumble dry cycles at 40 °C, or after 10 industrial washing and drying cycles at a minimum of 75 °C.

Industrial washing temperatures may be reduced to 60 °C for garments with taped seams.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide reports from tests carried out according to the following standards, as appropriate to the product:

For all products domestic wash cycles ISO 6330 or industrial laundry cycles ISO 15797 in combination with:

—	water repellents: ISO 4920

—	oil repellents: ISO 14419

—	stain repellents: ISO 22958

25(b)   Flame retardant functions

Washable products shall retain their functionality after 50 industrial wash and tumble dry cycles at a minimum of 75 °C. Non-washable products shall retain their functionality after a soak test.

Assessment and verification : The applicant shall provide reports from tests carried out according to the following standards, as appropriate to the product:

For domestic wash cycles ISO 6330 or commercial laundry cycles EN ISO 10528 both in combination with EN ISO 12138. Where the textile is non-removable BS 5651 or equivalent.

25(c)   Easy-care (also referred to as non-crease or permanent press)

Natural fibre products shall achieve an SA-3 fabric smoothness grade and blended natural and synthetic fibre products an SA-4 fabric smoothness grade after 10 domestic wash and tumble drying cycles at 40 °C.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide reports from tests carried out according to the ISO 7768 test method for assessing the smoothness appearance of fabrics after washing.

5.   CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY CRITERIA

The criteria in this section apply to the cut/make/trim stages of production for textile products.

Criterion 26. Fundamental principles and rights at work

Applicants shall ensure that the fundamental principles and rights at work as described in the International Labour Organisation's (ILO) Core Labour Standards, the UN Global Compact and the OECD Guidelines for Multi-National Enterprises shall be observed by all cut/make/trim production sites used to manufacture the licensed product(s). For the purpose of verification the following ILO Core Labour Standards shall be referred to:

029	Forced Labour
087	Freedom of Association and Protection of the Right to Organise
098	Right to Organise and Collective Bargaining
100	Equal remuneration
105	Abolition of Forced Labour
111	Discrimination (Employment and Occupation)
155	Occupational safety and health
138	Minimum Age Convention
182	Elimination of the Worst Forms of Child Labour

These standards shall be communicated to cut/make/trim production sites used to manufacture the final product.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall demonstrate third party verification of compliance, using independent verification or documentary evidence, including site visits by auditors during the Ecolabel verification process for cut/make/trim production sites in the supply chain for their licensed products. This shall take place upon application and subsequently during the license period if new production sites are introduced.

Criterion 27. Restriction on the sandblasting of denim

The use of manual and mechanical sandblasting to achieve distressed denim finishes shall not be permitted.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide details of all production sites used to produce ecolabelled denim products together with documentary and photographic evidence of the alternative processes used to achieve distressed denim finishes.

Criterion 28. Information appearing on the Ecolabel

The optional label with text box may contain wording selected from the following:

—	More sustainable fibre production (or a text selected from Table 11 below)

—	Less polluting production processes

—	Restrictions on hazardous substances

—	Tested for durability

Table 11

Text that may appear alongside the Ecolabel depending on product content

Fibres used	Production specification	Text that may be displayed
Cotton fibres	Organic content of more than 50 %	Made with xx % organic cotton
	Organic content of more than 95 %	Made with organic cotton
	IPM content of more than 70 %	Cotton grown with reduced pesticides
Man-made cellulose fibres	Certified sustainable pulp of more than 25 %	Made using xx % wood from sustainable forests
	Certified sustainable pulp of more than 95 %	Made using wood from sustainable forests
Polyamide	Recycled content of more than 20 %	Made with xx % recycled nylon
	Recycled content of more than 95 %	Made with recycled nylon
Polyester	Recycled content of more than 50 %	Made with xx % recycled polyester
	Recycled content of more than 95 %	Made with recycled polyester

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a sample of the product packaging showing the label, together with a declaration of compliance with this criterion.

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(1)  Council Regulation (EC) No 834/2007 of 28 June 2007 on organic production and labelling of organic products and repealing Regulation (EEC) No 2092/91 (OJ L 189, 20.7.2007, p. 1).

(2)  Regulation (EC) No 1830/2003 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 22 September 2003 concerning the traceability and labelling of genetically modified organisms and the traceability of food and feed products produced from genetically modified organisms and amending Directive 2001/18/EC (OJ L 268, 18.10.2003, p. 24).

(3)  Regulation (EU) No 995/2010 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 20 October 2010 laying down the obligations of operators who place timber and timber products on the market Text with EEA relevance (OJ L 295, 12.11.2010, p. 23).

(4)  Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 18 December 2006 concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH), establishing a European Chemicals Agency, amending Directive 1999/45/EC and repealing Council Regulation (EEC) No 793/93 and Commission Regulation (EC) No 1488/94 as well as Council Directive 76/769/EEC and Commission Directives 91/155/EEC, 93/67/EEC, 93/105/EC and 2000/21/EC (OJ L 396, 30.12.2006, p. 1).

(5)  Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 16 December 2008 on classification, labelling and packaging of substances and mixtures, amending and repealing Directives 67/548/EEC and 1999/45/EC, and amending Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 (OJ L 353, 31.12.2008, p. 1).

(6)  Council Directive 67/548/EEC of 27 June 1967 on the approximation of laws, regulations and administrative provisions relating to the classification, packaging and labelling of dangerous substances (OJ 196, 16.8.1967, p. 1).

(7)  Council Directive 1999/13/EC of 11 March 1999 on the limitation of emissions of volatile organic compounds due to the use of organic solvents in certain activities and installations (OJ L 85, 29.3.1999, p. 1).