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ANNEX

The criteria for awarding the EU Ecolabel to textile products, and the sub-categories under which they are grouped, are as follows:

Textile fibres

Components and accessories

Chemicals and processes

Fitness for use

Corporate Social Responsibility

Supporting information

Appendix 1 additionally contains the RSL referred to in criterion 13. This lists restrictions applying to hazardous substances that may be used to manufacture textile products and which may be contained in the final product.

The Ecolabel criteria reflect the best environmental performing products on the market of textiles. Whilst the use of chemical products and release of pollutants is part of the production process, a product that bears the EU Ecolabel guarantees the consumer that the use of such substances has been limited to the extent technically possible without prejudice to the fitness for use.

The criteria exclude whenever possible or restrict at minimum the concentration (required for providing specific functions and properties) of a number of substances identified as hazardous or potentially hazardous to the human health and the environment that may be used to manufacture textiles. Only where a substance is required to meet consumer performance expectations or mandated requirements for the product (for instance flame retardancy), and where there are no applied and tested available alternatives, derogation for such a substance to be used in the Ecolabel is granted.

Derogations are evaluated on the basis of the precautionary principle and scientific and technical evidence, especially if safer products are available on the market.

Product testing for restricted hazardous substances is requested in order to provide a high level of assurance to consumers. Strict conditions are also imposed on the manufacturing processes for textiles to control pollution of water and air, and to minimise exposure of the workforce. The verification of compliance with the criteria is formulated in a way that provides a high level of assurance to consumers, reflects the practical potential for applicants to obtain information from the supply chain and excludes the potential for ‘free riding’ by applicants.

Assessment and verification

In order to show compliance with the criteria the applicant is required to declare the following information about the product(s) and their supply chain:

Each criteria contains detailed verification requirements which require the applicant to compile declarations, documentation, analyses, test reports and other evidence relating to the product(s) and their supply chain.

The validity of the license is based on verification upon application and, where specified under criterion 13, product testing which shall be submitted to competent bodies for verification. Changes in suppliers and production sites pertaining to licensed products shall be notified to competent bodies, together with supporting information to verify ongoing compliance with the license conditions.

Competent bodies shall preferentially recognise tests by laboratories which are accredited according to ISO 17025 and verifications performed by bodies which are accredited under the EN 45011 standard or an equivalent international standard.

The functional unit, to which inputs and outputs should be related, is 1 kg of textile product at normal conditions (65 % RH ± 4 % and 20 oC ± 2 °C; these norm conditions are specified in ISO 139 Textiles — standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing).

Where the applicant uses a certification system to provide independent verifications the chosen system and associated systems for accreditation of verifiers shall meet the general requirements of EN 45011 and ISO 17065. Where appropriate, competent bodies may require supporting documentation and may carry out independent verifications and site visits.

The competent bodies are recommended to take into account the implementation of recognised environmental management schemes, such as EMAS, ISO 14001 and ISO 50001, when assessing applications and monitoring compliance with the criteria (note: it is not required to implement such management schemes).

EU ECOLABEL CRITERIA

Applicants shall demonstrate the compliance with the criteria as relevant to the material composition, chemical formulations, production sites and fitness for use of products they wish to carry the Ecolabel.

1.   TEXTILE FIBRE CRITERIA

Fibre-specific criteria are set out in this section for the following fibre types:

▼M1

Any fibre, including the above listed ones, may be used without having to meet the textile fibre criteria if it contributes to less than 5 % of the total weight of the product or if it constitutes a padding or lining. With the exception of polyamide and polyester the textile fibre criteria do not have to be met in the following cases:

For the purposes of calculating the percentage of cotton in a product that shall be required to comply with criterion 1(a) or 1(b), the recycled cotton fibre content shall be deducted from the required minimum percentages except in the case of clothing for babies under 3 years old.

▼B

In this context, fibres that contain a recycled content are defined as fibres originating from pre-consumer waste (including polymer and fibre production waste, cuttings from textile and clothing manufacturers) and post-consumer waste (textile and all kind of fibre and textile products, as well as non-textile waste including PET drinking bottles and fishing nets).

Recycled content shall, with the exception of PET bottles used to manufacture polyester, meet the requirements of the criterion 13 RSL. This shall include annual, randomised analytical testing for specified substance groups.

Assessment and verification for recycled content : recycled content shall be traceable back to the reprocessing of the feedstock. This shall be verified by independent third party certification of the chain of custody or by documentation provided by feedstock suppliers and reprocessors. Where required by criterion 13 declarations and laboratory testing results shall be provided by fibre manufacturers and feedstock suppliers.

Criterion 1. Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres (including kapok)

Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres (hereinafter referred to as cotton) shall contain a minimum content of either organic cotton (see criterion 1a) or integrated pest management (IPM) cotton (see criterion 1b). In addition to this:

▼M1

▼B

Products meeting specific content thresholds for organic or IPM cotton shall be permitted to display additional text alongside the Ecolabel communicating the content claim. Guidance is provided in criterion 28.

1(a)   Organic production standard

With the exception of the products listed below a minimum of 10 % of the cotton shall be grown according to the requirements laid down in Council Regulation (EC) No 834/2007 ( 2 ), the US National Organic Programme (NOP) or equivalent legal obligations set by trade partners of the EU. The organic cotton content may include organically grown cotton and transitional organic cotton.

The cotton content of the following products shall contain a minimum of 95 % organic cotton: T-shirts, woman's tops, casual shirts, jeans, pyjamas and nightwear, underwear and socks.

Assessment and verification : Organic content should be certified by an independent control body to have been produced in conformity with the production and inspection requirements laid down in Regulation (EC) No 834/2007 the US National Organic Programme (NOP) or those set by other trade partners. Verification shall be provided on an annual basis for each country of origin.

▼M1

For conventional and IPM cotton that is blended with organic cotton, a qualitative screening test for common genetic modifications carried out according to EU Reference Methods for GMO analysis ( 3 ) and indicating a GMO-free result shall be accepted as a proof of compliance. Tests shall be made on samples of raw cotton from each country of origin and before it passes through any wet treatment. Certification of IPM cotton by schemes that exclude genetically modified cotton shall be accepted as proof of compliance.

▼B

1(b)   Cotton production according to IPM principles

A minimum of 20 % of the cotton shall be grown according to IPM principles as defined by the UN Food and Agricultural Organisation (FAO) IPM programme, or Integrated Crop Management (ICM) systems incorporating IPM principles, and shall comply with the pesticide restrictions in criterion 1(c).

For the following products the minimum percentage of the cotton that shall be grown according to IPM principles as defined above shall be 60 %: T-shirts, woman's tops, casual shirts, jeans, pyjamas and nightwear, underwear and socks.

Assessment and verification : The applicant shall provide evidence that the cotton has been grown by farmers that have participated in formal training programmes of the UN FAO or Government IPM and ICM programmes and/or that have been audited as part of third party certified IPM schemes. ►M1  Verification shall either be provided on an annual basis for each country of origin or on the basis of certifications for all IPM cotton purchased to manufacture the product. ◄

Compliance with the pesticide restriction shall not be required for schemes that prohibit use of the substances listed in criterion 1(c) and where either testing is carried out or declarations of non-use are obtained from farmers and/or farmer producer groups that are verified by site visits carried out by control bodies accredited by either national governments or recognised organic or IPM certification schemes.

▼M1 —————

▼B

1(c)   Pesticide restrictions applying to conventional and IPM cotton

All cotton used in ecolabelled textile products, with the exception of organic cotton and cotton from IPM schemes exempted in 1(b), shall be grown without the use of any of the following substances:

▼M1

Aldicarb, aldrin, campheclor (toxaphene), captafol, chlordane, 2,4,5-T, chlordimeform, cypermethrin, DDT, dieldrin, dinoseb and its salts, endosulfan, endrin, heptachlor, hexachlorobenzene, hexachlorocyclohexane (total isomers), methamidophos, methylparathion, monocrotophos, neonicotinoids (clothianidine, imidacloprid, thiametoxam), parathion, pentachlorophenol.

The sum total of the listed pesticides detected upon testing of the cotton shall not be greater than 0,5 ppm.

▼B

Assessment and verification

:

Cotton shall be tested for the listed substances. A test report shall be provided based on the following test methods, as appropriate:

Tests shall be made on samples of raw cotton from each country of origin and before it passes through any wet treatment. For each country of origin testing shall be carried out on the following basis:

Cotton is not required to be tested where it has been certified by an IPM scheme that prohibits the use of the listed substances.

1(d)   Traceability requirements applying to organic and IPM cotton

All cotton grown according to the organic and IPM production standards and used to manufacture an Ecolabelled textile product shall be traceable from the point of verification of the production standard up until, as a minimum, greige fabric production.

Assessment and verification

:

the applicant shall demonstrate compliance with the minimum cotton content requirement either for the annual volume of cotton purchased or for the blend of cotton used to manufacture the final product(s) and according to each product line:

▼M1

▼B

Criterion 2. Flax and other bast fibres (including hemp, jute and ramie)

2(a)	Flax and other bast fibres shall be retted under ambient conditions and without thermal energy inputs. Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a declaration of the retting method used from the farmers and/or scutching mills supplying the fibre.

2(b)

Where water retting has been used the wastewater from retting ponds shall be treated so as to reduce the COD or TOC by at least 75 % for hemp fibres and by at least 95 % for flax and other bast fibres. Assessment and verification : if water retting is used, the applicant shall provide a test report showing compliance and using the following test method: ISO 6060 (COD).

Criterion 3. Wool and other keratin fibres (including wool from sheep and lambs, and hair from camel, alpaca and goat)

3(a)

The sum totals provided in Table 2 shall not be exceeded for wool ectoparasiticide concentrations on raw wool prior to scouring. These requirements shall not apply if documentary evidence can be presented that establishes the identity of the farmers producing at least 75 % of the wool or keratin fibres in question, together with an independent verification based on site visits that the substances listed above have not been applied to the fields or animals concerned. Table 2 Sum total restrictions on ectoparasiticide concentrations in wool Ectoparasiticide groups Sum total limit value γ-hexachlorocyclohexane (lindane), α-hexachlorocyclohexane, β-hexachlorocyclohexane, δ-hexachlorocyclohexane, aldrin, dieldrin, endrin, p,p'-DDT, p,p'-DDD 0,5 ppm Cypermethrin, deltamethrin, fenvalerate, cyhalothrin, flumethrin 0,5 ppm Diazinon, propetamphos, chlorfenvinphos, dichlofenthion, chlorpyriphos, fenchlorphos 2 ppm Diflubenzuron, triflumuron, dicyclanil 2 ppm Wool scourers that operate closed loop water systems without the discharge of wastewater effluent and which break down the aforementioned ectoparasiticides that may be present in scouring residues and sludge through incineration are derogated from the requirement for wool testing but must comply with at least two of the measures in 3(c). ▼M1 Assessment and verification : the applicant shall either provide the documentation indicated above or compile test reports, using the following test method: IWTO draft test method 59. The test should be made on farmer or sales lots of raw wool, by country of origin (if mixed) and before any wet processing. A minimum of one composite sample of multiple farmer or sales lots from each country of origin shall be tested per processing lot. A composite sample should consist of either of the following: (i)  wool fibres from at least 10 randomly selected farmer or sales lots (by country of origin), where there are more than 10 sales lots for that country of origin within the processing lot; (ii)  one sample per sales lot or farmer lot (whichever is less) supplying the processing lot where there are less than 10 sales lots for that country of origin within the processing lot. Alternatively test reports may be submitted for all farmer or sales lots in a processing lot. Where a derogation applies then the applicant shall provide evidence confirming the scouring plant configuration and laboratory test reports demonstrating the breakdown of ectoparasiticides that may be present in scouring residues and sludge. ▼B

3(b)

Wool scouring operations shall minimise effluent COD by maximising dirt removal and grease recovery, followed by treatment to the value specified in Table 3 either on or off site. The following COD limits shall apply to coarse and fine greasy wool scouring. Fine wool is defined as merino wool of ≤ 23,5 micron in diameter. Table 3 COD values for the final discharge of effluent from wool scouring Type of wool Final discharge to the environment (g COD/kg greasy wool) Coarse wool 25 g/kg Fine wool 45 g/kg Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide relevant data and test reports related to this criterion, using the following test method: ISO 6060. The data shall demonstrate compliance by the wool scouring site or, if the effluent is treated off-site, by the wastewater treatment operator. Compliance with this criterion shall be on the basis of monthly averages for the six months preceding the application.

3(c)

Wool scourers shall implement at least one of the following measures to recover value from either oxidised grease, fibre, suint or sludge arising from the scouring site used for the ecolabelled wool products: (i)  recovery for sale as a chemical feedstock; (ii)  the production of compost or liquid fertiliser; (iii)  the manufacturing of products such as building materials; (iv)  treatment and energy recovery by anaerobic digestion or incineration. Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a report and waste transfer notes confirming the type and proportion of waste recovered and the method used.

Criterion 4. Acrylic

4(a)

The emissions to air of acrylonitrile (during polymerisation and up to the solution ready for spinning), expressed as an annual average, shall be less than 1,0 g/kg of fibre produced. Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance from the fibre manufacturer(s).

4(b)

The workplace emissions to air of N,N-dimethylacetamide (127-19-5) during polymerisation and spinning shall not exceed an Indicative Occupational Exposure Limit Value (IOELV) of 10,0 ppm. Assessment and verification : emissions values are to be measured at those process stages in which the substances are used, expressed as an 8-hour average value (shift mean value). The applicant shall provide test reports and monitoring data from the fibre manufacturer(s) showing compliance with this criterion.

Criterion 5. Elastane

5(a)	Organotin compounds shall not be used to manufacture the fibres. Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use from the fibre manufacturer(s).

5(b)

The workplace emissions to air of the following substances during polymerisation and spinning shall not exceed the following indicative occupational exposure limit values (IOELV): (i)  diphenylmethane-4,4'-diisocyanate (101-68-8) 0,005 ppm (ii)  toluene-2,4-diisocyanate (584-84-9) 0,005 ppm (iii)  N,N-dimethylacetamide (127-19-5) 10,0 ppm Assessment and verification : emissions values are to be measured at those process stages in which the substances are used, expressed as an 8-hour average value (shift mean value). The applicant shall provide test reports and monitoring data from the fibre manufacturer(s) showing compliance with this criterion.

Criterion 6. Polyamide (or nylon)

Polyamide products shall comply with at least one of the production standards listed in sub-criteria 6(a) and 6(b).

Any product that meets the minimum recycled content threshold shall be permitted to display additional text alongside the Ecolabel communicating a content claim. Guidance is provided in criterion 28.

6(a)

Production standard 1: Minimum recycled content. Fibres shall be manufactured using a minimum content of 20 % nylon that has been recycled from pre and/or post-consumer waste. Assessment and verification : recycled content shall be traceable back to the reprocessing of the feedstock. This shall be verified by independent certification of the chain of custody or by documentation provided by suppliers and processors.

6(b)

Production standard 2: N2O emissions from monomer production. The emissions to air of N2O from nylon monomer production, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 9,0 g N2O/kg of caprolactam (for nylon 6) or adipic acid (for nylon 6,6). Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide documentation or test reports showing compliance based on monitoring data, together with a declaration of compliance from fibre manufacturer(s) and their feedstock providers.

Criterion 7. Polyester

Textile products that are primarily for sale to consumers shall comply with sub-criteria (a) and (b). Textile products that are primarily for sale to commercial or public sector customers shall comply with (a) and either (b) or (c).

Any product that meets the minimum recycled content threshold shall be permitted to display additional text alongside the Ecolabel communicating this content claim. Guidance is provided in criterion 28.

7(a)

The level of antimony present in the polyester fibres shall not exceed 260 ppm. Polyester fibres manufactured from recycled PET bottles are derogated from this requirement. Assessment and verification : the applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use or a test report using the following test methods: direct determination by Atomic Absorption Spectrometry or Inductively Coupled Plasma (ICP) Mass Spectrometry. The test shall be carried out on a composite sample of raw fibres prior to any wet processing. A declaration shall be provided for fibres manufactured from recycled PET bottles.

7(b)

Fibres shall be manufactured using a minimum content of PET that has been recycled from pre-consumer and/or post-consumer waste. Staple fibres shall contain a minimum content of 50 % and filament fibres 20 %. Micro-fibres are derogated from this requirement and shall instead comply with (c). Assessment and verification : recycled content shall be traceable back to the reprocessing of the feedstock. This shall be verified by independent certification of the chain of custody or by documentation provided by suppliers and processors.

7(c)

The emissions of VOCs during the production of polyester, expressed as an annual average including both point sources and fugitive emissions, shall not exceed 1,2 g/kg for PET chips and 10,3 g/kg for filament fibre. Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide monitoring data and/or test reports demonstrating compliance with EN 12619 or standards with an equivalent test method. Monthly averages for the total emissions of organic compounds from production sites for ecolabelled products shall be provided for a minimum of six months preceding the application.

Criterion 8. Polypropylene

Lead based pigments shall not be used.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use.

Criterion 9. Man-made cellulose fibres (including viscose, modal and lyocell)

Pulp production sub-criteria

9(a)

A minimum 25 % of pulp fibres shall be manufactured from wood that has been grown according to the principles of sustainable forestry management as defined by the UN FAO. The remaining proportion of pulp fibres shall be from pulp that is sourced from legal forestry and plantations. Assessment and verification : the applicant shall obtain from the fibre manufacturer(s) valid, independently certified chain of custody certificates demonstrating that the wood fibres have been grown according to sustainable forestry management principles and/or are from legal sources. FSC, PEFC or equivalent schemes shall be accepted as independent certification. The fibre manufacturer shall demonstrate that due diligence processes have been followed as specified in Regulation (EU) No 995/2010 of the European Parliament and of the Council ( 4 ) in order to ensure that timber has been legally harvested. Valid EU FLEGT (Forest Law Enforcement, Governance and Trade) or UN CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) licenses and/or third party certification shall be accepted as evidence of legal sourcing.

9(b)	Pulp produced from cotton linters shall, as a minimum, meet with the requirements of either cotton criterion 1a or 1b. Assessment and verification : as indicated in the corresponding criteria

9(c)

Pulp used to manufacture fibres shall be bleached without the use of elemental chlorine. The resulting total amount of chlorine and organically bound chlorine in the finished fibres (OX) shall not exceed 150 ppm or in the wastewater from pulp manufacturing (AOX) shall not exceed 0,170 kg/ADt pulp. Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a test report showing compliance with either the OX or the AOX requirement, using the appropriate test method: OX: ISO 11480 (controlled combustion and microcoulometry). AOX: ISO 9562

9(d)

A minimum of 50 % of the pulp used to manufacture fibres shall be purchased from dissolving pulp mills that recover value from their spent process liquors either by: (i)  Generating on-site electricity and steam (ii)  Manufacturing chemical co-products. Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a list of pulp suppliers supplying the raw material used to make the fibres and the proportion of pulp that they supply. Documentation and evidence shall be provided that the required proportion of suppliers have the appropriate energy generating equipment and/or co-product recovery and manufacturing systems installed at related production sites.

Fibre production sub-criteria

9(e)

For viscose and modal fibres, the sulphur content of the emissions of sulphur compounds to air from fibre production processes, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed the following performance values in Table 4. Table 4 Viscose and Modal fibre sulphur emissions values Fibre type Performance value (g S/kg) Staple fibre 30 g/kg Filament fibre   — Batch washing — Integrated washing 40 g/kg 170 g/kg Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance.

2.   COMPONENT AND ACCESSORIES CRITERIA

The criteria in this section apply to components and accessories that form part of a final product.

Criterion 10. Fillings

10(a)

Filling materials consisting of textile fibres shall comply with the textile fibre criteria (1–9) where appropriate.

10(b)

Filling materials shall comply with the textile RSL' requirements for biocides and formaldehyde (see Appendix 1).

10(c)

Detergents and other chemicals used for the washing of fillings (down, feathers, natural or synthetic fibres) shall comply with the textile RSL' requirements for auxiliary chemicals and for detergents, softeners and complexing agents (see Appendix 1).

Assessment and verification : as indicated in the corresponding criteria

Criterion 11. Coatings, laminates and membranes

11(a)

Components made of polyurethane shall comply with Textile fibre criteria 5(a) relating to organic tin and 5(b) relating to workplace exposure to aromatic diisocyanates and DMAc.

11(b)

Components made of polyester shall comply with Textile fibre criteria 7(a) and 7(c) regarding antimony content and the emission of VOCs during polymerisation.

11(c)

Polymers shall comply with restriction g(v) of the RSL in Appendix 1 of this Decision.

Assessment and verification : as indicated in the corresponding criteria and/or in the Appendix 1 to this Decision.

Criterion 12. Accessories

Metal and plastic components such as zips, buttons and fasteners shall comply with the RSL' requirements for accessories (see Appendix 1).

Assessment and verification : as indicated in the corresponding criteria.

3.   CHEMICALS AND PROCESS CRITERIA

The criteria in this section apply, where specified, to the following production stages:

Unless specified otherwise these criteria, including the requirements for random testing, shall also apply to fibres containing recycled content.

Criterion 13. Restricted Substance List (RSL)

13(a)   General requirements

The final product and the production recipes used to manufacture the final product shall not contain the hazardous substances listed in the Restricted Substance List at or above the specified concentration limits or according to the specified restrictions. The RSL can be found in Appendix 1. The restrictions in the RSL take precedence over the derogations listed in Criterion 14, Table 6.

The RSL shall be communicated to suppliers and agents responsible for the spinning, dyeing, printing and finishing stages of production. Verification and testing requirements are specified in the RSL for each production stage and for the final product.

Laboratory testing, where required, shall be carried out for each product line based on random sampling. Testing shall be carried out annually during the license period in order to demonstrate ongoing compliance with the RSL.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance with the RSL supported by evidence as applicable to the substances and production recipes used to manufacture the final product. The requirements are indicated in the RSL and include declarations obtained from those responsible for related production stages, declarations from chemical suppliers and test results from laboratory analysis of samples of the final product. Declarations obtained from production stages shall be supported by safety data sheets (SDS) for production recipes and, where necessary, declarations from chemical suppliers. SDS shall be completed in accordance with the guidance in Section 2.3,9,10, 11 and 12 of Annex II to Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council ( 5 )(Guide to the compilation of safety data sheets). Incomplete SDS shall require supplementing by declarations from chemical suppliers.

Laboratory analysis of the final product shall be carried out in a representative way for the licensed product lines, where specified in the RSL and according to the test methods listed. Testing, where required, shall be carried out upon application and once a year thereafter for each product line based on a random sample, with results then communicated to the relevant competent body. Test data obtained for the purposes of compliance with industry RSL's and other schemes shall be accepted where the test methods are equivalent and have been carried out on a representative sample of the final product.

Failure of a test result during a license period shall result in retesting for the specific product line. If the second test fails then the license shall be suspended for the specific product line. Remedial action will then be required in order to re-instate the license.

13(b)   Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC's)

▼M1

The final product including any component or accessory shall not, unless specifically derogated, contain substances that fulfil the following conditions:

This applies to substances used to impart function to the final product and to substances that have been intentionally used in production formulas.

No derogation shall be given concerning substances of very high concern that are present in a textile article, or in any homogeneous part of a textile article, in concentrations higher than 0,10 % (weight by weight).

▼B

Assessment and verification : Substances and recipes used at each production stage shall be screened against the latest version of the candidate list published by ECHA. The applicant shall compile declarations of compliance from each production stage supported by screening documentation.

Where a derogation has been granted then the applicant shall show that use of the substance is in compliance with the concentration limits and derogation conditions set out in the RSL.

▼M1

Criterion 14. Substitution of hazardous substances and mixtures used in dyeing, printing and finishing

Substances and mixtures applied to fabrics and knitted panels during dyeing, printing and finishing processes which remain on the final product and, in accordance with Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 of the European Parliament and of the Council ( 6 ), meet the criteria for classification with the hazard classes or risk phrases listed in table 5 shall not be used unless they have been specifically derogated. These restrictions shall also apply to functional substances incorporated into synthetic fibres and man-made cellulose fibres during their manufacturing. This criterion applies to production chemicals in the form in which they are applied to the product, either as substances or mixtures.

▼B

14(a)   Hazard classification restrictions

The hazard classifications restricted are listed in Table 5. The most recent classification rules adopted by the European Union shall take precedence over the listed hazard classifications and risk phrases. Applicants shall therefore ensure that any classifications are based on the most recent classification rules.

The use of substances or mixtures which change their properties upon processing (e.g., become no longer bioavailable, undergo chemical modification) so that the identified hazard no longer applies are exempted from the above requirements. This shall include polymers that have been modified to incorporate a function and monomers or additives which become covalently bonded with polymers.

14(b)   Derogations that apply to textile substance groups

In accordance with Article 6(7) of Regulation (EC) No 66/2010 the substance groups in Table 6 are specifically derogated from the requirements set out in Criterion 14(a) and in accordance with the derogation conditions described in Table 6. For each substance group all derogation conditions are provided for the specified hazard classifications. These derogations also apply to substances added to man-made synthetic and cellulosic fibres during their manufacturing.

Assessment and verification

:

the applicant shall obtain declarations of compliance from each dyeing, printing and finishing production site and, where necessary, their chemical suppliers. This shall declare that, where used in production recipes, the following substances, together with any additional functional substances used that may remain on the final product, do not meet the criteria for classification with one or more of the hazard classifications and risk phrases listed in Table 5:

Where substances are derogated in Table 6 then the declaration shall specifically identify those derogated substances and provide supporting evidence showing how the derogation conditions are to be met.

▼M1

If the production formulas include auxiliaries that carry the hazard classifications specified in derogation (v), verification shall be required based on laboratory testing of a final or intermediate product, or alternatively a calculation of the carry-over of classified auxiliaries from production processes onto the final product.

▼B

The following technical information shall be provided to support the declaration of classification or non-classification for each substance:

SDS shall be completed in accordance with the guidance in Section 2.3,9,10, 11 and 12 of Annex II to Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 (requirements for the compilation of SDS). Incomplete SDS will require supplementing by declarations from chemical suppliers.

Criterion 15. Washing, drying and curing energy efficiency

The applicant shall demonstrate that the energy used in washing, drying and curing steps associated with dyeing, printing and finishing steps for ecolabelled products is measured and benchmarked as part of an energy or carbon dioxide emissions management system.

Furthermore, they shall demonstrate that production sites have implemented a minimum number of Best Available Techniques (BAT) energy efficiency techniques as specified in Table 7 and as listed in Appendix 3 to this decision.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall compile reporting from energy management systems for each dyeing, printing and finishing production site. ISO 50001 or equivalent systems for energy or carbon dioxide emissions shall be accepted as evidence for the energy management system.

The evidence required of BAT implementation shall include, as a minimum, site photographs, technical descriptions of each technique and evaluations of the energy savings achieved.

Criterion 16. Treatment of emissions to air and water

16(a)   Wastewater discharges from wet processing

Wastewater discharges to the environment shall not exceed 20 g COD/kg textiles processed. This requirement shall apply to weaving, dyeing, printing and finishing processes used to manufacture the product(s). The requirement shall be measured downstream of on-site wastewater treatment plant and/or off-site wastewater treatment plant receiving wastewater from these processing sites.

If the effluent is treated on site and discharged directly to surface waters, it shall also meet the following requirements:

If colour removal is required by a derogation condition in criterion 14 then the following spectral absorption coefficients shall be met:

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide detailed documentation and test reports, using ISO 6060 and ISO 7887 as relevant, and showing compliance with this criterion on the basis of monthly averages for the six months preceding the application, together with a declaration of compliance. The data shall demonstrate compliance by the production site or, if the effluent is treated off-site, by the wastewater treatment operator.

16(b)   Emissions to air from printing and finishing processes

Total emissions of organic compounds, as defined in Council Directive 1999/13/EC ( 7 ), from textile printing and finishing production sites used to manufacture the ecolabelled product(s) shall not exceed 100,0 mg C/Nm3.

Where textile coating and drying processes allow for the recovery and reuse of solvents an emissions limit of 150,0 mg C/Nm3 shall apply.

Finishing processes include the thermosetting, thermosoling, coating and impregnating of textiles including their respective drying (stenter) facilities.

▼M1

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall demonstrate compliance according to EN 12619 or other equivalent standards. Calculation of the emissions of organic compounds based on the method described in the most current European Commission Reference document for best available techniques for the Textiles Industry shall also be accepted. Monthly averages for the total emissions of organic compounds from production sites shall be provided for the six months preceding the application. Where recovery and reuse of solvents is carried out then monitoring data shall be provided to evidence the operation of these systems.

▼B

4.   FITNESS FOR USE CRITERIA

The criteria in this section apply to intermediate fabric and knitted product and to the final product.

Criterion 17. Dimensional changes during washing and drying

The dimensional changes after washing and drying at either domestic or industrial washing temperatures and conditions shall not exceed those specified in Table 8.

This criterion does not apply to:

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide test reports using the standards appropriate for the product.

For domestic washing EN ISO 6330 in combination with EN ISO 5077 shall be used as follows: three washes at temperatures as indicated on the product, with tumble drying after each washing cycle.

For commercial washing in industrial laundries ISO 15797 in combination with EN ISO 5077 shall be used at a minimum of 75 °C or as indicated in the standard for the fibre and bleaching combination. Drying shall be as indicated on the product label.

Alternatively for removable and washable mattress ticking EN ISO 6330 in combination with EN 25077 shall be used. The default conditions shall be washing 3A (60 °C) and drying C (flat drying) unless the product label states otherwise.

Criterion 18. Colour fastness to washing

The colour fastness to washing shall be at least level 3-4 for colour change and at least level 3-4 for staining.

This criterion does not apply to products labelled ‘dry clean only’ or equivalent (in so far as it is normal practice for such products to be so labelled), to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed, or to non-washable furniture fabrics.

Assessment and verification : for domestic washing the applicant shall provide test reports using the test method: ISO 105 C06 (single wash, at temperature as marked on the product, with perborate powder).

For commercial washing in industrial laundries ISO 15797 in combination with ISO 105 C06 shall be used at a minimum of 75 °C or as indicated in the standard for the fibre and bleaching combination.

Criterion 19. Colour fastness to perspiration (acid, alkaline)

The colour fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline) shall be at least level 3-4 (colour change and staining). A level of 3 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics are both dark coloured (standard depth > 1/1) and made of regenerated wool. This criterion does not apply to white products, to products that are neither dyed nor printed, to furniture fabrics, curtains or similar textiles intended for interior decoration.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 E04 (acid and alkaline, comparison with multi-fibre fabric).

Criterion 20. Colour fastness to wet rubbing

▼M1

The colour fastness to wet rubbing shall be at least level 2-3. A level of 2 is allowed for dark coloured denim and a level of 1 for all other denim colour shades.

▼B

This criterion does not apply to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 X12.

Criterion 21. Colour fastness to dry rubbing

▼M1

The colour fastness to dry rubbing shall be at least level 4. A level of 3-4 is allowed for dark coloured denim and a level of 2-3 for all other denim colour shades.

▼B

This criterion does not apply to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed, or to curtains or similar textiles intended for interior decoration.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 X12.

Criterion 22. Colour fastness to light

For fabrics intended for furniture, curtains or drapes, the colour fastness to light shall be at least level 5. For all other products the colour fastness to light shall be at least level 4.

A level of 4 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics intended for furniture, curtains or drapes are both light coloured (standard depth < 1/12) and made of more than 20 % wool or other keratin fibres, or more than 20 % linen or other bast fibres.

This requirement does not apply to mattress ticking, mattress protection or underwear.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 B02.

Criterion 23. Wash resistance and absorbency of cleaning products

Cleaning products shall be wash resistant and absorbent according to the relevant testing parameters identified in Tables 9 and 10. The testing specified for absorbency shall not apply to twisted yarn products.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test methods as relevant: EN ISO 6330 and EN ISO 9073-6. Testing according to EN ISO 6330 shall be carried out using washing machine type A for all products and materials.

Criterion 24. Fabric resistance to pilling and abrasion

Non-woven fabrics and knitted garments, accessories and blankets made of wool, wool blends and polyester (including fleece), shall resist pilling to rating of a minimum of 3.

Woven cotton fabrics used for garments shall resist pilling to a rating of a minimum of 3. Polyamide tights and leggings shall resist to a rating of a minimum of 2.

Assessment and verification

:

the applicant shall provide reports from tests carried out as appropriate to the substrate:

Criterion 25. durability of function

Finishes, treatments and additives that impart water, oil and stain repellency flame retardancy and easy care (also referred to as non-crease or permanent press) to the textile product when it is in use shall be durable according to the values and parameters set out in sub-criteria 25(a), (b) and (c).

For water, oil and stain repellents consumers shall be provided with guidance on how to maintain the functionality of finishes applied to the product.

Textile fibres, fabrics and membranes that lend the final product intrinsic functional properties are exempt from these requirements.

Assessment and verification : for products with intrinsic properties applicants shall provide test reports demonstrating comparable or improved performance compared with alternatives that may be applied as finishes.

25(a)   Water, oil and stain repellent functions

Water repellents shall retain a functionality of 80 out of 90 after 20 domestic wash and tumble dry cycles at 40 °C, or after 10 industrial washing and drying cycles at a minimum of 75 °C.

Oil repellents shall retain a functionality of 3,5 out of 4,0 after 20 domestic wash and tumble dry cycles at 40 °C, or after 10 industrial washing and drying cycles at a minimum of 75 °C.

Stain repellents shall retain a functionality of 3,0 out of 5,0 after 20 domestic wash and tumble dry cycles at 40 °C, or after 10 industrial washing and drying cycles at a minimum of 75 °C.

Industrial washing temperatures may be reduced to 60 °C for garments with taped seams.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide reports from tests carried out according to the following standards, as appropriate to the product:

For all products domestic wash cycles ISO 6330 or industrial laundry cycles ISO 15797 in combination with:

25(b)   Flame retardant functions

Washable products shall retain their functionality after 50 industrial wash and tumble dry cycles at a minimum of 75 °C. Non-washable products shall retain their functionality after a soak test.

Assessment and verification : The applicant shall provide reports from tests carried out according to the following standards, as appropriate to the product:

For domestic wash cycles ISO 6330 or commercial laundry cycles EN ISO 10528 both in combination with EN ISO 12138. Where the textile is non-removable BS 5651 or equivalent.

25(c)   Easy-care (also referred to as non-crease or permanent press)

Natural fibre products shall achieve an SA-3 fabric smoothness grade and blended natural and synthetic fibre products an SA-4 fabric smoothness grade after 10 domestic wash and tumble drying cycles at 40 °C.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide reports from tests carried out according to the ISO 7768 test method for assessing the smoothness appearance of fabrics after washing.

5.   CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY CRITERIA

▼M1

Criteria 26 and 27 address labour conditions and human rights at work. Criterion 26 applies to the cut/make/trim stages of production for textile products whereas criterion 27 specifically applies to the production of denim.

▼B

Criterion 26. Fundamental principles and rights at work

Applicants shall ensure that the fundamental principles and rights at work as described in the International Labour Organisation's (ILO) Core Labour Standards, the UN Global Compact and the OECD Guidelines for Multi-National Enterprises shall be observed by all cut/make/trim production sites used to manufacture the licensed product(s). For the purpose of verification the following ILO Core Labour Standards shall be referred to:

These standards shall be communicated to cut/make/trim production sites used to manufacture the final product.

▼M1

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall demonstrate third party verification of compliance, using independent verification or documentary evidence, including site visits by auditors during the Ecolabel verification process for cut/make/trim production sites in the supply chain for their licensed products. This shall take place upon application and subsequently during the license period if new production sites are introduced.

In countries where ILO Labour Inspection Convention, 1947 (No 81) has been ratified and ILO supervision indicates that the national labour inspection system is effective and the scope of the inspection system covers the areas listed above ( 8 ), verification by labour inspector(s) appointed by a public authority shall be accepted.

▼B

Criterion 27. Restriction on the sandblasting of denim

The use of manual and mechanical sandblasting to achieve distressed denim finishes shall not be permitted.

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide details of all production sites used to produce ecolabelled denim products together with documentary and photographic evidence of the alternative processes used to achieve distressed denim finishes.

Criterion 28. Information appearing on the Ecolabel

The optional label with text box may contain wording selected from the following:

Assessment and verification : the applicant shall provide a sample of the product packaging showing the label, together with a declaration of compliance with this criterion.